oil knoob question

I have a friend using 20-50 valvoline oil in his da9 he argues thats the right oil for a high mileage car, i say BS i go by the book using royal p 10-30.

Whos right??

ps i love asking knoob questions lol

[QUOTE=tacvbo;2037514]I have a friend using 20-50 valvoline oil in his da9 he argues thats the right oil for a high mileage car, i say BS i go by the book using royal p 10-30.

Whos right??

ps i love asking knoob questions lol[/QUOTE]

if the motor has high mileage… then protection is what u wanna consider. if its being raced, then most likely the weights that are higher should be considered cuz the oil will start to break down if its too weak. 20-50 seems a bit high for a DD da tho. the royal purple 10w-30 isn’t a bad choice either tho. is good for a high mileage DD. if u look at ur owners manual (if u still have one), i believe it recommends something in that area if not that one exactly (10w-30), except for the synthetic part.

i’m pretty sure there is a thread somewhere here in g2ic that mentions what oil is recommended.

5w30 is recommended always. 10w30 is good if your temperature doesn’t go below -10*C. for the gs-r 10w30 is recommended always.

i knew i was right…:naughty:

i use 10w 40. but will my car burn less oil if i use 10w 30? i myself am a noob.

changing the viscosity does not change how much or little your car burns oil. ALWAYS use the recommended weight. if you go too think, like 10-40 or 20-50, its too thick to get in all the parts to lubricate the bearings. yeah, you might burn just a little less oil because your rings are worn out, but if your bearings arn’t knockin, you need to run 5w30 or 10w30 max

i use 10w-40 synthetic. it offers a bit more protection especially since i’ve started auto-x and also cuz i drive it pretty aggressive onto the freeways, but not on the streets. i have a b20b crate motor from honda with a total of 9k on it that i’ve put. and yes 10w-40 is thicker… but if u only drive it once its at operating temps, its ok, not like 5w-30 or 10w-30 where u can just drive on it even tho it hasn’t reach operating temp. but lots of others can disagree on that which is fine… all i know is that when i drive a car… i DO NOT start moving until it has reached operating temp.

You only need to idle the car long enough for oil to reach the valvetrain (approx. 30 seconds to 1 minute, depending on ambient temperature), and you have to drive the car to get the oil up to temperature. Idling won’t do it. The coolant temperature may reach the normal range, but the oil won’t.

A low-mileage engine with proper bearing clearances should be running the manufacturer’s recommended grade. If your concerned about protection at high rpm I’d suggest a 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic.

Yea you can drive slowly as part of the warm up routine. It’s only a very light load on the engine to troll around town in 3rd gear but at least gets you moving on that gas burned.
The track junkies at s2ki feel that royal purple is good initially but loses its performance early in the oil life, as noted by royal purple’s quick change to a black color. Unless you drag race and need that little horsepower increase for the first 500-1000 miles of the oil life, it’s probably better to just buy the cheaper castrol gtx and change it a little more often.

well personally i’ve had other oils other than the 10w-40 mobil one that i’m running break down earlier in its life. not particularly on this motor that i’m running now but just from my own personal experience. back then I’d only run 10w-30 castrol good old dinosaur oil. but even after about 1500 miles i saw it breaking down n stuff. friends and i have also tried running that other stuff, motul? or something like that. that was a lil better than royal purple… but even changing it at about 2k showed signs of break down. basically we gave up and just decided to run mobil 1 cuz others weren’t lasting as long. i DO NOT bother with mobil 1 oil filters tho. their oil is expensive enough but their filters dont perform any better from our experiences. personally i run hamp oil filters, and for $8 a filter i ain’t complaining whatsoever.

i have yet to see how the 10w-40 mobil 1 does in my b20. but from the look of the dipstick… my oil still looks pretty darn good. i don’t drive it that hard and i’m pretty chill on it, with occasional hearty accelerations onto freeways but thats about it.

But technically the only way to gauge an oil’s performance is to have it analyzed. You can’t actually tell from the colour. A dark oil may still have service life remaining.

true, but lemme put it this way… its like laundry soap and dish soap or almost any soap. if u don’t see it making bubbles, is it really working? its all about piece of mind after a certain point.

once oil turns black, u know for a fact that its lost a lot of its effectiveness. like an air filter, once that thing gets darker in color due to dirt and such, yes it still works but not as well as a clean well maintained filter. and i mentioned well maintained cuz i have a k&n air filter so i maintain it.

I use 5w-30 full synthetic… 347,000 kms on her. seems to run great.