A dying or dead ICU will cause the oil pressure warning light circuit to malfunction. Seeing that these cars are ~20 years old, and the ICU is a common problem that might be a good place to start.
Besides how many miles have you put on your car since this has started? If you have put on a few does your oil show signs of significant internal engine wear? like shavings or glittery pieces? Severe engine damage would happen very quickly with a loss of oil pressure
If I’m reading that right then you did it wrong. I read what you wrote as: You removed the connector for the Oil Temp switch and ran those wires to the ECT Switch (you really need to stop abbreviating things as “S” can stand for Switch, Sensor, or Sending Unit). What you need to do is clip the wires for the ECT Switch which was originally on the back of the block, solder on the correct connector and then plug into the ECT Switch which is now on your thermostat housing.
ECU could definitely be fried. I’ve never seen it get wet from that leak before though.
Okay I have some new updates.
I found a different brand new conversion harness and still got the same results. That cylinder still isn’t firing. I had no codes before and with the new jumper I only plug and played and didn’t hardwire so i got a 21 for vtec solenoid as I expected.
Totally lost.
I’ll have to double check that wiring again.
The ECU internally never got wet. i cracked it open and saw no water or corrosion, the connectors were drenched. Nothing internal as far as I could see.
You said you swapped injectors with no change in result, have you also tried swapping spark plugs? That’s definitely a strange problem you’re experiencing, especially with those compression numbers. Also what were you referring to on the chart when you said NOID? I’m not familiar with that term.
Also have you tried removing the fuel rail like Colin suggested to visually verify that the injector is firing? Could be injector wiring I suppose.
I did swap the plugs with no results as well. By noid I mean injector pulse testing. All injectors are getting signal. I have not pulled the fuel rail as I’ll need another person handy to do that.
You can do it without another person…
Key in ignition on Acc, battery disconnected… watch fuel rail and connect battery. That will prime the pump and you can see it spray.
While I hate the idea of doing it that way, I had to do that to track down my leaky injector.
[QUOTE=unified112;2301710]You can do it without another person…
Key in ignition on Acc, battery disconnected… watch fuel rail and connect battery. That will prime the pump and you can see it spray.
While I hate the idea of doing it that way, I had to do that to track down my leaky injector.[/QUOTE]
But wouldn’t swapping the injectors around and not seeing the cylinder follow the correct temps as the other primaries rule that out?
Also, I can’t remember if I mentioned this or not but I do hear an intermittent ticking noise in the engine bay. I havn’t been able to source if its internal or a loose bolt somewhere. It’s definitely not steady and consistent as if I had no oil pressure or low oil. It’s a high tick, which makes me think top end if anything.
I’m going to try and find a leak down tester and my swapping a p72 over from my roommates car tomorrow to rule out the ecu.
Anybody else wanna pull their hair out?
[QUOTE=AxeOfGlory;2301794]But wouldn’t swapping the injectors around and not seeing the cylinder follow the correct temps as the other primaries rule that out?
Yes, it would… You just mentioned needing another person to pull the rail. I was simply letting you know of a way you can watch the spray pattern without the aid of another.
Ahh okay, I just wanted to clarify that aspect.
Updates:
I swapped a different jumper harness as well as swapped a working P72 into my car with absolutely no change in issues…
I checked and rechecked valve lash today. Nothing loose that would cause that ticking noise. All lash was good, I tightened up a few but they were probably not off. Nothing on CYL 1.
I’m looking at my timing at TDC on the crank. Keep in mind this is an LS/V so some slight degree offset is expected. Does this appear to be a tooth off to anyone?
We can’t tell if it’s off because your PS hose is in the way…
Was the pic taken with the #1 cyl at TDC? Or was the pic taken when the notches on the cam gears lined up? If your answer is YES to both of those questions then your mechanical timing should be fine.
Personally I like to use the screwdriver in the cylinder trick so I can watch the cylinder position at the same time as the cams. It looks within spec to me though in the new pic. They aren’t perfectly lined up but if if you moved a gear one full tooth it’d be more than that off. With that said, it does look like both cam gears are slightly counterclockwise of where they should be, but it could just be the angle of the photo. The motor sits slanted in the engine bay, so if the car is on level ground the engine leans forward a little. The cam gears should be parallel to the engine not the body. So they will point UP and be perpendicular to the valve cover and not perpendicular to the ground.
I’ll give that a shot too. I do recall now that my head was milled when I had the head redone. I made sure it wasn’t enough to need a thicker gasket and they agreed a factory gasket would be fine.
I don’t think the belt being off a tooth would cause one cyl not to fire properly like you’re having issues with. Everything would be off a little, not just one cyl off a lot. But that’s just a guess, I’ve never tried it so don’t know for sure.
That’s what I thought, even if that were the case. The logical problem would be CYL 4 not firing either.
Turns out it was indeed a faulty injector. It somehow hid itself because I swapped cyl 1 & 2 and saw no difference. But I think I was still getting a hot reading off the other primaries. i ended up switching cyl 1 & 4 and 4 went dead. Swapped injectors and problem solved! I can’t believe it snuck past me like that…
Thanks for all your help guys! I’m now resolving a roaming idle problem lol.
Yay for old cars!
