I’ve ran into an abrupt issue. I’m almost done FINALLY getting this damn car back on the road. I recently discovered i had my fans wired wrong and I rewired them to what I believe is the correct way. Now, everything was fine, until I put the car back down on the ground.
Since then, I now have a very terrible oil light. It doesn’t come on right away, it takes about 30-45 seconds to start to come on. It comes on VERY dim and slowly starts flickering to a brighter and more solid light. I haven’t ran it for very long because i don’t want to destroy the motor.
I replaced the pressure switch with a brand new one and it’s still the same thing. Do you think this is a good sign of low oil pressure? It’s strange that its a flicker.
I haven’t ran an oil pressure test because for one I’ve never done one and two I’m afraid to run it again.
I don’t here any rod knock, any type of noise. I do keep hearing a very random clank, as if a bolt is loose somewhere, I haven’t quite sourced the sound yet though, but it may be coming from inside the motor as well.
Any ideas??
Brandon
PS - I should also point out it’s an ls/v that was completely rebuilt also running the Golden Eagle Sandwich kit.
It makes sense that the oil light flickers because if the pump is indeed going out on you, it will provide unstable pressure so the sensor is saying “We’re ok!.. No we’re not… Wait, yes we are!!”
I really don’t tend to believe the factory pressure switches because they are so inaccurate and imprecise… but if you’ve installed a brand new, OEM switch, it may be reading accurately.
What motor do you have? Vtec heads have a service-bolt that you can remove and install a pressure gauge to check pressure. I’m not sure whether this port exists on non-vtec motors though…
My builder tells me that the factory switch will illuminate the dash light if the pressure drops below 9psi… and by then damage will be happening. Now i ddon’t know if he was meaning for built motors with tighter clearances, or even for factory motors… but either way I quickly decided that a permanent gauge is the way to go for me.
[QUOTE=unified112;2301250]It makes sense that the oil light flickers because if the pump is indeed going out on you, it will provide unstable pressure so the sensor is saying “We’re ok!.. No we’re not… Wait, yes we are!!”
I really don’t tend to believe the factory pressure switches because they are so inaccurate and imprecise… but if you’ve installed a brand new, OEM switch, it may be reading accurately.
What motor do you have? Vtec heads have a service-bolt that you can remove and install a pressure gauge to check pressure. I’m not sure whether this port exists on non-vtec motors though…
My builder tells me that the factory switch will illuminate the dash light if the pressure drops below 9psi… and by then damage will be happening. Now i ddon’t know if he was meaning for built motors with tighter clearances, or even for factory motors… but either way I quickly decided that a permanent gauge is the way to go for me.[/QUOTE]
It’s an aftermarket pressure switch from o reillys. Nothing too fancy. I have a OBD0 b16 head that I believe came from overseas. I’ve only ran it for maybe 5 minutes collectively since the light has been on, and that’s accounting for not knowing it was on when I started it the first time and was checking on the motor under the hood, came back saw the light and shut it off. I’ve ran it twice since then, for maybe 45 seconds each. I’m unfamiliar with how to test oil pressure since I’ve never had to.
I did check the signal wire as i did have to tug a few times to get it down low enough to solder the new fan connections, I cleaned the connector with brake clean and it does fit on the connector with a click, albeit it’s a bit loose.
I assume the switch grounds out to the block, am I correct? So this red/yellow wire would run from the switch to the ICM, then from the ICM to the cluster, correct?
If you look at the cylinder head, on upper corner of the exhaust-side there is an 8mm (i think) bolt which is designed for checking oil pressure. You’ll need to replace the metal washer when you re-install the bolt because they are one-time-use crush washers.
I’ll see if I can find a pic or more info for you.
The service-bolt is in that image, you can see it where the image says “Look Right Above Exhaust Port #4”. It’s by the cam-cap, opposite the timing-belt side of the motor.
This is for an Accord, I don’t have my b-series service manual handy… But you need a pressure gauge with a fitting that will thread into the head. I know Honda has a specific unit for our motors, bit I’d think you could rent something from AutoZone that would fit. You can take the bolt from the head in with you and see if any of their fittings would work.
just throwing this out there… I had this issue and it was actually my ICU was shot…
That said I would still highly recommend checking oil pressure manually just to be sure you are good there. I spent months trying to figure out my oil light issue and stumbled across an old thread that mentioned the ICU as the culprit, sure enough it was ( in my case)
I went and bought a sunpro gauge today. A few things:
I ground tested the actual switch circuit - With key on ign off the light was off when disconnected, I grounded it with a paper clip and the light came on, so I know the circuit is working. NOW, with the car running and the pressure switch connector disconnected it was still dimly flickering, leading me to an electrical problem.
However…my readings are concerning:
At the service port I’m getting 0 psi, nothing. It SLOWLY filled the oil line to the gauge with oil, but took a good 45 seconds to fill it.
My reading at the pressure switch, with the switch removed and the mechanical gauge inline to its mounting hole, is read 75 PSI at 1500 RPM.
Another thing,
I have no fire at the far drivers cylinder. I know this because my new header is not breaking in at the cylinder. I pulled the plug and I’m getting fuel, as it and the cylinder was wet. The spark plugs and wires are indeed brand new. The distributor was a brand new ebay distributor.
Now, a good question to ask at this point, since the ICM was brought up. Is it possible that these two issues are relative? Does the ICM control spark?
I know there are a few questions but this is a problem I’ve never had to solve on any vehicle, and there are multiple issues at play here.
Thanks for the help!
Brandon
Also, the motor was converted using the Golden Eagle LS/V Kit, with the head gasket.
Are you following the procedures in your Helms manual? You should be. Don’t have one? Then why are you working on a car you don’t have a manual for? Sorry if that’s harsh, but the Helms is a gold mine of information, better than manuals I’ve seen for other cars.
I’ve never checked oil pressure this way, I’ve just had a gauge in my car running off a port on the back of the block. I too assumed that the port on the front of the head was an oil pressure test port - and it is. But I was surprised to see (upon consulting my Helms) that it is NOT how you are supposed to test for oil pressure. You test oil pressure on the back of the block. The port on the front of the head is specifically for testing your VTEC system.
You’re confusing ICM and ICU.
ICU = Integrated Control Unit
ICM = Ignition Control Module
Obviously those are very very different parts and control very different functions. The ICU is integrated into the under dash fuse box and controls stuff like your windshield wipers. The ICM is located inside your distributor and does something with the ignition system.
I think your best bet is to start 100% from scratch. Forget everything you’ve done so far and go back to what your problems are. Do the test procedure to see if the oil light flickering is a bad switch or if your oil pressure is actually low. Once that’s figured out, move on to your issue with cyl #1.
[QUOTE=Colin;2301627]Are you following the procedures in your Helms manual? You should be. Don’t have one? Then why are you working on a car you don’t have a manual for? Sorry if that’s harsh, but the Helms is a gold mine of information, better than manuals I’ve seen for other cars.
I’ve never checked oil pressure this way, I’ve just had a gauge in my car running off a port on the back of the block. I too assumed that the port on the front of the head was an oil pressure test port - and it is. But I was surprised to see (upon consulting my Helms) that it is NOT how you are supposed to test for oil pressure. You test oil pressure on the back of the block. The port on the front of the head is specifically for testing your VTEC system.
You’re confusing ICM and ICU.
ICU = Integrated Control Unit
ICM = Ignition Control Module
Obviously those are very very different parts and control very different functions. The ICU is integrated into the under dash fuse box and controls stuff like your windshield wipers. The ICM is located inside your distributor and does something with the ignition system.
I think your best bet is to start 100% from scratch. Forget everything you’ve done so far and go back to what your problems are. Do the test procedure to see if the oil light flickering is a bad switch or if your oil pressure is actually low. Once that’s figured out, move on to your issue with cyl #1.[/QUOTE]
I don’t have a helms because I cannot seem to find where mine is in this house and haven’t purchased a new one. I agree, i loved my helms when I had it haha.
Back to basics I have a flickering light EVEN with the connector disconnected from the pressure switch. I have no fire at cyl #1, and I have no oil pressure reading at the vtec service port. Now that yoy have stated there is no oil pressure unless vtec is engaging. I’m assuming it either works under vtec only, or its a testing port to load the system under pressure to manually check its actuator engagement.
As I said, I have about 75 PSI at the pressure switch port on the back of the block at 1500 RPM during fast idle using a manual pressure gauge.
I’m going to get a injector probe and compression tester today to really make these basic. I’ll post results in a few hours.
That was my fault, I was under the impression that you would get a reading of oil pressure, even below the vtec crossover… But you did the correct thing by removing the pressure switch and testing pressure there. It seems like you are getting fine pressure.
Once it is at operating temperature, and idle, you should have roughly 20psi.
Definitely check your injectors out and plugs, since you’re there doing the compression test anyway.
You said you’re getting fuel, so sounds like you need to check spark more than fuel. However, what’s the back story on your injectors? It sounds like this is a fresh, from the ground up rebuild - is that the case? If so then everything is a variable opposed to if it was a running motor that just started having the oil light flickering. When I did my rebuild I had my injectors cleaned then they sat for an extended period of time before I tried to start the motor. Turns out the final process of cleaning had some parafin type material in it which clogged the injector since it wasn’t put immediately into use. I was getting some fuel but not enough so it took me a long time to figure it out. Eventually I pulled the fuel rail (with injectors plugged in), propped it up and turned over the motor to watch the injector spray patterns. Turns out once cylinder had a weak spray pattern and the others were fine. Not likely your problem, but just a reminder that when you’re dealing with a rebuild you have to consider everything.
Unified - No worries! I may have been misleading and there are a lot of variables I listed.
Just to lay the ground flat. I did rebuild 90 percent of the motor. The bottom end was inspected and installed by a shop before I built the rest. So that’s supposed good.
Everything else up MINUS injectors were replaced. These were known working injectors so I didn’t need new ones or any higher output injectors on an almost stock rebuild. I haven’t pulled the fuel rail just yet because I wanted to tackle the oil pressure before doing anything else. From what we’ve gathered it seems pressure is fine and safe to move forward. I picked up a noid set and a compression tester to satisfy all other aspects.
I should also specify that this motor has ran before, albeit a bit handicapped because all mounts were toast, and i was going easy on the new clutch and basemap. So i never really have ran this thing to its potential. My fingers are crossed for an injector because they are a dime a dozen and super easy. I’ll check compression first, then wiring, if wiring signal is good I’ll pull the fuel rail and watch the spray out.
I only caught this issue because she was still running rough, and i assumed basemap was likely. It wasn’t until I put my stainless steel header on did I notice CYL 1 was not breaking in. So I went ahead and picked up an infrared temp gun to watch the temps as well.
So, Colin, just to answer your question shorthand: It was not until I rewired my fans to which I BELIEVE is the correct harness from what I read in your write up did this start happening. I may have tugged too hard or broke a wire getting that harness to come low enough to be able to solder and shrink it. Or, somehow I rewired them into the incorrect harness. I’ll double check the wiring but the oil pressure switch is 1 wire, the other is EOT and ECT, both which control the fans, correct? It’s non ac, so i don’t have the relay.
EOT and ECT is not enough info. There are THREE “ECT” items - sending unit, switch, and sensor. A mixup with your radiator fan wiring or knocking something loose was actually my first guess, especially once you said the light was still flickering when disconnected.
As for your comment about non-ac and the relay… doesn’t matter if your car is non-ac or not, if it’s a US spec car then it has the relay and radiator fan control module (RFCM). Only the Canadian spec non-AC cars lacked the RFCM. At least this is what I’ve gathered from the Helms, I haven’t been able to confirm this by checking actual cars.
Again, shoot me an email. I’ve got something you might want to see.
[QUOTE=Colin;2301645]EOT and ECT is not enough info. There are THREE “ECT” items - sending unit, switch, and sensor. A mixup with your radiator fan wiring or knocking something loose was actually my first guess, especially once you said the light was still flickering when disconnected.
As for your comment about non-ac and the relay… doesn’t matter if your car is non-ac or not, if it’s a US spec car then it has the relay and radiator fan control module (RFCM). Only the Canadian spec non-AC cars lacked the RFCM. At least this is what I’ve gathered from the Helms, I haven’t been able to confirm this by checking actual cars.
Again, shoot me an email. I’ve got something you might want to see.[/QUOTE]
I sent you an email, I apologize, I forgot to send you one the first time!
The harness I spliced into in question is the big rubber plug with the green and yellow wires coming out of it. That was the last harness I spliced into. I do not have the sensor on the back of the block as it is a B18B1 and I don’t believe they ran those sensors.
The FIRST harness I spliced into which I believe was incorrect was the harness with the green plasic connector (looks similar to the green VTEC plug). Both of these harnesses ran to the back of the block. As the B18A1 had the switch (correct?) ran to the back of the block, the B18B1 has the switch ran at the coolant neck.
By temp I mean infrared temp aimed at the header primaries. With injectors I swapped CYL 1 with CYL 2 and still got the exact same results as before swapping.
I am stumped guys. I know I’m getting spark because I did the oldschool screwdriver in the wire arcing to the valve cover and they all get spark.
[QUOTE=AxeOfGlory;2301649]
The harness I spliced into in question is the big rubber plug with the green and yellow wires coming out of it. That was the last harness I spliced into. I do not have the sensor on the back of the block as it is a B18B1 and I don’t believe they ran those sensors.[/quote]
This sounds like the ECT Switch to me, which is the switch that controls the radiator fan. B18B1 does in fact have this sensor, but it looks different and it’s located on the thermostat housing.
[QUOTE=AxeOfGlory;2301649]
The FIRST harness I spliced into which I believe was incorrect was the harness with the green plasic connector (looks similar to the green VTEC plug).[/quote]
This sounds like the Engine Oil Temp switch. It should be a green 2 pin connector with a BLK wire and a WHT/GRN wire. This switch isn’t really important at all. Technically it has a function but it’s convoluted and I don’t fully understand the system and don’t care to learn seeing as it’s AC related. Since you don’t have AC you can just ignore this switch, in fact there may not even be one on your b18b.
The Engine Oil Pressure Switch, which you’ve been having issues with is a single pin unit and should have a YEL/RED wire.
The top unit is the ECT switch (90-91 style)
The left most unit is the Engine Oil Temp Switch
The bottom most unit closest to the oil filter is the Engine Oil Pressure Switch
I’ve had instances where you see spark but it’s not GOOD spark, so that’s a possibility that it could be ignition related still. Not sure what else to suggest at the moment.
This sounds like the ECT Switch to me, which is the switch that controls the radiator fan. B18B1 does in fact have this sensor, but it looks different and it’s located on the thermostat housing.
This sounds like the Engine Oil Temp switch. It should be a green 2 pin connector with a BLK wire and a WHT/GRN wire. This switch isn’t really important at all. Technically it has a function but it’s convoluted and I don’t fully understand the system and don’t care to learn seeing as it’s AC related. Since you don’t have AC you can just ignore this switch, in fact there may not even be one on your b18b.
The Engine Oil Pressure Switch, which you’ve been having issues with is a single pin unit and should have a YEL/RED wire.
The top unit is the ECT switch (90-91 style)
The left most unit is the Engine Oil Temp Switch
The bottom most unit closest to the oil filter is the Engine Oil Pressure Switch[/QUOTE]
What I did was cut the harness pigtail for the EOTS off and splice it with the ECTS and run it up to the coolant neck. So that appears to be correct.
I did just swap dizzys, an old one so I’m not sure how good she works, and nothing changed. It’s running like even more dogpiss because now the timing is off and I’m olut of daylight so I will have to finish it up tomorrow. I really hate this car.
Anyone else please feel free to elaborate with one dead cylinder.
Also, one last thing, grasping at straws here. I posted this a few weeks earlier with another issue I was having. THe ECU did get soaked with water from the notorious teg leak on pass side. It did get a bit corroded and I cleaned it up as best as I could. What are the odds of this? I can search a pinout tomorrow and post which pins got corroded.
