Here is what I am going to do to my B17 within the next month if you see anything that I leftout or have a reason that I should change something please let me know.
SRP 10.5:1 .20 oversized N2O pistons with SRP rings
bore my block .20 over
Eagle rods
Zex street/strip cams
Zex valvesprings and Ti retainers
mild port and polish my head with a 3 angle valve job.
portmatch my intake and head
micropolish and balance the crank
send my ecu to katman at FF Squad to be reprogramed
Apexi VAFC
Fidanza cam gears
B&M fpr and gauge
new Honda berrings and gaskets
Exedy stage 1 clutch
catback RSR,or Thermal R&D and OBX highflow cat
Neuspeed N2 header
AEM cai
I already have the header and the Pistons and Rods will be here 02/07/02
When I get the money I am getting a Fidanza/Clutch Masters 8.5 flywheel
bore my t-body
and change my 5th gear to an Ls 5th gear
Thats it. This is for my 92 GS-R my daily driver.
Thanks
You sir have more money than I. It’s nice to see someone that has thoroughly planned every aspect of a project before they dive into it. Good luck with it and let us know how far into the 14’s you get.
Sounds good to me! I would add (if I had the money)…
ARP main and head bolts
STR Cam Seal
An aftermarket fuel rail
RC 270cc injectors
MSD ignition (may not be a necessity)
Portflow titanium retainers
A/F ratio and oil pressure guage
new water pump
Moroso oil pan
…that’s all I can think of for now
With NOS and revving to 8K, I’d recommend more attention to your fuel system and management. You don’t want to lean out with the nitrous or else BOOOM!! You may want to see if the FF Squad program would be best with your nitrous setup. With the Louis’ recommendation, I would go with RC 270s also.
I just replaced the waterpump & timing belt 5000mi ago or so
I am also getting a new oilpump,already have an STR cam seal
I also forgot to list B&M fpr & guage. I am also going to get A/F ga & O2 ga also
I am not so sure about the ARP stuff though a friend of mine has a 97 turboed Type-R (lowered C/R) he had a big turbo on the car and the blow off valve stuck open his boost gauge burried at 50 psi pistons,rods,cylinder walls did not make it but the block was saved by block guard and Honda head gasket and factory head bolts were fine. He put ARP head studs in and they keep backing off.
So I do need to get RC 270 injectors now?
I am looking at a 100 shot of N2O later on but I will make sure that everything else will be in place for that.
Why the Moroso oil pan?
I am raising the rev limit to 8600 to.
100 shot of NOS, shifting at past 8200 rpms, even with your conservative 10.5:1 C/R, be very safe and SMART! Get the RC 270s at the least. With that much squeeze, I would even opt for RC 310s just to be on the safe side and then pick up a VAFC or Hondata to tune down the injectors at idle. HTHs. Good luck with the build!
I am not going to use N2O right now. I may not even do it later but the botom end will be ready if I want to.
If I go N2O then I will go through the same research that I have put into the motor. I will most likely get a J&S Safeguard & RC 310s. I am already getting a VAFC anyway.
May want to consider a better clutch or higher stage stage 1 is light if your ever going to get into N20 you want a higher stage i had a stage 1 act for my n/a gsr and it was great so i would go with them… i mean if you go up a stage 2 or 3 it would be better then having to replace the clutch later… you may want to have the rods shot peened or pick up a set of eagle rods off of groupbuycenter.com for 339.99 if you get into that nos that will help ya:)
babybluegsr92 I already have Eagle rods and if I go with a big shot of N2O later I will get a different clutch. I got the Exedy stage 1 clutch for 249.50 shipped I could not beat that deal Clutchcityonline “says” that it will hold 350 hp I don’t think that it will but it looks like a very good clutch.
Get the WHOLE ROTATING ASSEMBLY balanced, not just the crank. It doesn’t cost that much and is very beneficial.
Have your block decked, replugged, and retapped as well as the bore/hone. Most shops know to use a ridge reamer after boring/honing to remove the sharp edges from the tops of the cylinders, just make sure they do.
With a new clutch at least get your stock flywheel resurfaced. If you don’t you will get clutch chatter and premature clutch failure.
A new oil pump and fuel pump are not bad things to include with a rebuild. Stock head bolts will be fine, but ARP Head Studs will insure everything stays together while squeezing.
I would get at least 310cc RC Injectors if you are planning on squeezing 100 shot, but if you are mainly not squeezing, 270s are fine.
TUNING, TUNING, TUNING, TUNING. I can’t emphasize enough how important it is, expecially if you are on the bottle. The incorrect fuel mixture could mean a very short engine life.
Also, while you have the eninge apart replace all the seals…
Crankshaft mainseal
Oil Pan Gasket
Distributor O-ring
Coolant line O-rings
Valve cover Gasket
Spark Plug Seals
Cam End Plug
Cam Seals
Oil Pickup Tube Gasket
There’s a lot to rebuilding a motor. Let me know if you have any other questions, and I’ll answer the best I can.
I know you don’t have a shred of respect for me but I have a set of RC eng. 310c.c. injectors for sale with about 2000 miles on them. I have the box, seals, and instructions. $280 shipped
