To give you a little background, I have a 93’ LS. The car has 133K miles. I just bought the car about 4 months ago and i’ve never had any problems with it overheating until I took the car to get steam cleaned at a detail shop in San Diego. I steam cleaned the engine on Tuesday (01/30/07). On Wednesday morning, after warming up my car and driving for about a 5 minutes, I noticed the temperature gauge was all the way at “H”. I pulled over, there was no steam and I checked the upper radiator hose and the temperature of the hose was normal. I then checked the dipstick and the oil was fine. I then decided to open the radiator cap with a rag. I expected the coolant to shoot up ; however, it wasn’t that hot and coolant didn’t splatter. There was plenty of 50/50 mixture coolant.
Currently, I am still driving my integra… My drive to work is about 9 miles. This morning, I warmed up the car. The temp gauge was in the middle after the car warmed up. I drove it for about 5 miles, the temp sky rocketed to about 3/4 to “H”, then it stayed there for a mile. Then the needle drop back down to the middle of the temp. gauge. The gauge then stayed that way, even after parking the car when I got to work. I left it at idle and the temp remained in the middle of the temp gauge. So that’s how my temp gauge is behaving.
Troubleshooting: Things I have done so far–
- I searched on the forum and found the ECT gauge. So I tested this first as described: a) check fuse no. 23 (7.5A), which was ok. b) disconnected the YEL/GRN wire from the ECT sending unit and grounded it with a jumper wire. When I grounded the YEL/GRN and then turned on the ignition switch ON, the ECT gauge starts moving towards the “H” mark.
So (this morning) I replaced the ECT sending unit thinking it would resolve the problem. However, I still have the same problem.
- I checked the fans to make sure they are working properly. At idle, the radiator fan turns on once the engine warms up/gets hot. In addition, When I turn on the AC, both fans turn on. So I believe my fans are both functioning properly, also the fuse for the fan is good.
Here are a few things that I have in mind that I’ve yet to try but I haven’t had time:
- (Engine coolant refilling and bleeding). There may be bubbles in my cooling system, so I would need to flush/bleed the coolant.
I’m not sure if steam clean could introduce bubbles into my cooling system?
-
Change the thermostat?
-
Radiator cap?
So should I start with #3, 4, or 5 above? Or is there something else I should check before trying 3, 4, and 5 above? Please let me know how I should proceed.
Also, are there other sensors that I should check such as the Engine Oil Temperature sensor? Would this sensor cause the temperature gauge in the dash to read incorrectly? Any other idea’s to help me get through this problem would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the novel… Thanks in advance for your assistance! :bang: :bang:
The gauge moving like that sounds like bubbles in the system. Bleed it out…
Since the coolant did not spray up at you, sounds like your cap isn’t holding pressure, so try buying one of those as well.
BacardiBreezer, thanks for the post.
- I will bleed the bubbles out of the system as soon as i get off work.
- You’re right, the coolant did not spray, but I don’t think the car was that hot yet? From the time I warmed up my car in the morning until I opened up the radiator cap was no more than 10 minutes. Should the coolant still spray up? Anyways, I will also buy a new radiator cap if bleeding the coolant system doesn’t fix the problem.
Thanks again.
Well, I know my old Teg (which actually warmed up correctly) only took about five minutes, something like that, but less than 10. It would have sprayed up or at least made the pressurising noise. Even when I had parked the car, if I didn’t wait for it to completely cool it’d make that noise, so you may need a new cap.
Oh yeah - do you know if your temperature sending unit is bad? Mine is on my Teg right now, and it’s always reading cold or about 1/4 of the way up.
Sorry if I confused you. The temperature sending unit was the first thing I replaced. I don’t think I was clear in my initial description:
“So (this morning) I replaced the ECT sending unit thinking it would resolve the problem. However, I still have the same problem.”
I broke the housing where the bleed bolt is during lunch time
Bad news, I went home during lunch time so that I could bleed my coolant system. I loosened the bleed bolt and a little bit of air came out. I then opened the radiator cap and added some water. Then there was a steady stream coming out the the bleed bolt. I then tightened with a 12mm socket 3/8 drive ratchet. I tightened it too tight and i broke the housing… so i can’t screw in the bleed bolt.
I had to get a ride to work… what a bummer!
One additional question. Does the upper radiator hose lead into the thermostat? If so, I am going to go buy the housing which the upper radiator hose plugs into. Also, I will buy a new thermostat if that is where the thermostat is located. Please let me know.
Oops…haha sorry about that.
I can’t remember offhand if it does. I think its the lower one actually, but don’t quote me. I’d have to go out and look and it’s freezing and my car is down the road 
i believe the lower radiator hose feeds into the thermostat/thermostat housing.
This sucks because I have to replace the housing that the upper radiator hoses leads into. In addition, I should replace my thermostat anyways and see if it resolves my problem.
BacardiB, I think my radiator cap is faulty also. Because I drove the car home for lunch today and it’s about a 10 min drive. I was able to open the radiator cap without any coolant splashing or spraying anywhere. I have to replace the cap also…
dammit, i am spending too much money on stuff I break accidentally.
LOL, a rad cap isn’t that much 
Update After Weekend Repairs
Things I replaced:
- Thermostat, I replaced it with OEM from Acura.
- Upper radiator hose Housing which has the bleeder screw. I broke the original one and I had to replace it with a new one. However, the new housing doesn’t have the bleed screw in it. Please refer to my picture of the old and the new housing. How do I bleed my coolant system without the bleed screw. (Do I just find the highest point in my coolant system and take out a hose?) Please help. Acura said that he gave me the correct part, but now they don’t have the bleed screw… is that weird or what? I talked to someone in the service department, and he said that is weird too! PLEASE HELP!
- Please refer to my temp gauge. I believe my temp gauge is reading about 3/8. Shouldn’t it be only 1/3 when it is warmed up? Do you think I still have a problem with my cooling system?
- Replaced radiator cap.
That is exactly where your gauge should be. You’re fine 
Bacardi, if my temp gauge is normal, then it must’ve been my thermostat or my radiator cap that caused the original problem I had.
I can probably put my old radiator cap on to see if the gauge temp acts up again and that would tell me whether it was the thermostat or the rad cap.
thanks for your replies, it motivated me to fix my car with your assistance and (Robin’s help).
Thanks you guys!:rockon:
Awesome! I finally helped someone! :excite:
