i’m currently bondoing my car & also had to fiberglass over the rust after i sanded most of it. it was the rust in the passenger side rear wheel well. i’ve used 80, 120, 240 sanding grit & the bondo will slightly chunk off making it unsmooth, but more bondo will be below that…so if any1 can direct me to a good tutorial or something similar to this on helping me get the bondo to be smooth instead of chunking & becoming rugged i would be very thankful… [u]pic progress will be showin below[/u]
the wheel well that is giving me troubles: sanded
trunk getting sanded to fiberglass over holes & will be redrilled when i get a type-r spoiler or a 99-00 civic si spoiler
side view of sanded trunk
cleaning inside trunk
i’m in the process of cleaning inside of the trunk more, cutting plywood to fit the trunk & putting carpet over the trunk board
I am currently doing the exact same thing, keep us updated on how it goes! Also, where did you get the paint you plan on using? I cant find R-81 milano red in a can in any of the hardware stores around me.
i got the paint from a local body shop/autotive paint store…its both. i was going to order some online, but they have NO pics of a real car w/ the color i wanted to paint my car this winter :-/. will post pics in about 1hr
In my opinion, for what it’s worth, fiberglass on the outside of your trunk is a bad idea. I would suggest glassing from the inside then using this If you are trying to fill the small holes on any metal part of your car you should ue this product. That is how I shaved my hatch key hole and hatch washer fluid nozle.
If you are trying to patch, fill, or mold your bumpers you should use this.
Both of these products should be found at your local auto paint store.
i’m also repainting my 4dr. R-81. i just started and have never done this. i have my passenger quarter panel and back door done and the my friend said that i fucked up and didn’t use primer surfacer. and that i needed to block and wet sand. at this point i am about to give up and go to a shop but i’m not like that. i like to do things my way. if i didn’t use the surfacer is that bad? when i continue do i have to use the surfacer or can i just use the sealer on the spots that need it and then seal the whole thing? if anyone is in the oregon area and would like to help please E-mail me.
looks like you need to build up the inne fender lip with some fiberglass
if the bondo is chunking off when you are sanding it means you arent letting it cure long enough, not mixing it well enough or not using enough hardener…i am also in the process of restoring my teg…fortunately for me i had no rust just a few door dings. thin coats of body filler are key to a goot job…too much at one time and it will shrink…its def time consuming but well worth it when done correctly…
here are some pics of my work…the green color on the is the base coat etching primer…i used to work at a custom auto paint shop and this is the type of work i did
dude your doing a good job on your ride. i think i’m going to really crack down on mine and do it right like you. i know i’m going from rio red to milano, but thats even a big differance and i need it to look good.what do you think?
Man i have to start doing this to all my dents its going to be a pain. Ive seen alot of bondo work where it absorbs the paint and you can tell where its had bondo, how can you stop that from happening? Is it a matter of just getting enough primer on it?
the reason why you can see bondo work throught the paint is lack of prep. the bondo has shrunk, they did not sand it properly, and and most important, they didnt apply anything between the body filler and paint…primers are very important, they too act as a filler.
here is what i do:
block sand area to find the entire det or ding ( low spots will still have paint in them).
with 80 grit sandpaper sand the area being filled down to the bare metal
clean area with oil/wax remover
mix up required amount of body filler. only apply 1/8th inch coats, block sand inbetween coats.
once dent/ding is filled, final block sand it so it is smooth. at this point sometimes you will still find high/low spots. correct them as needed
apply a light coat of primer, use self etching primer if you have bare metal. let dry
block sand the area again, making sure there are no low spots, fill the spots as needed.
appply 2 more medium coats of etching primer, let it dry. wet sand it with 400 grit.
now its time to apply the primer sealer. apply 2-3 coats of the sealing primer. let them dry completely.
wet sand with 400 grit and you are ready for paint!
