aiight spring time im really serious about putting all my efforts to painting my car yellow. i already have an air compressor and im looking for a paint gun. i want to know the correct way to paint a car. my plans are:
am i missing anything?
good post… I ould like to know the procedure as ell. Leif did his car and It looks good. He should know the routine
My advice to you:
It would be bad to try to strip your paint all the way down to bare metal. First of all, it takes a lot more work than what it is worth. Second, you will have to buy a lot more paint to cover the car again. If you really want to strip it down like that, you have to work very fast because as soon as you take it down to metal, it will start rusting. The original undercoat of your original paint has rust inhibiting property and it is best if you just wet sand the paint with some 600 grid paper until it is smooth. Then shoot the car with primer and wet sand it again with 600. Then finally shoot your new color. Don’t forget to take everything off that is removable. That’s all the trims and rubbers…
You can use just able any paint gun for this because your goal is just to put thinist layers of paint on your car without it running. Don’t worry if it comes out rough because that’s what color sand and buffing is for at the end.
i’d also like to know!
ARCHIVETHIS
Do not strip it down to bare metal. That is the worst idea I’ve heard. Also, all your wet-sanding in between steps is dependent upon the paint system you use. If you are using a metalic color you will not wet sand that before applying the clear. Most likely you will only sand the primer w/ 400 (not even wetsanding). There is no reason to wet-sand until you have shot all coats of the clear (at least 3 coats) and it has dried and cured for a few weeks. At that point you will wet-sand w/ 1500 and 2000. Then cut and buff.
None of this is really relevant until you decide on a paint system. The autobody supply store that you buy your paint from will know what steps need to be followed much better than anyone on this board.
You can check pics of my paint job project here:
http://roundthestars.net/~leifclarke/Integra_text/project.htm
Leif
ok thanks alot guys for all that info. now my that, thats cleared up i used aerosol primer over my red and does this matter if i leave it and begin the sanding process? because i heard if you use different chemicals the new paint may start sagging because of the different primer’s chemicals?
can you guys elaborate onsome words like ‘cut n buff’ and ‘color sanding’
thanks a bunch guys
I’m not sure what ‘color sanding’ refers to but ‘cut & buff’ is the process of buffing out the wet-sanding marks and giving your car a shiny finish. You see, once you are done clear coating there may be some orange peel and other imperfections in the finish. Wet-sanding w/ 1500+ grit is to rub out these imperfections. It is critical that you do not sand through the clear. So basically I like to put at least 3 cotes of clear on to avoid even worrying about this. Once you’re done wet-sanding your car looks like $hit. So then you use a buffing wheel w/ different pads and compounds to cut then buff.
Now, it is possible to apply the clear so well that wet-sanding isn’t neccessary. But you have to be very good for that to be the case.
You used aerosol primer over your red paint? I’m not sure what you mean by that. I’m not too knowledgeable on equipment. I used a heavy duty gas powered air compressor w/ a conventional cup-gun. I used a bullard (I believe) filter on the compressor to clean the air and another filter on the gun itself.
Leif
basically i picked up some automotive primer [in a spray can] and sprayed over my original color. and i was wondering if the different chemicals in the spray primer would affect any other future paint coats i would put on.
BTW thanks for the clearing that up, helped me learn alot
Did you do that to prevent some rust or something? You’re going to sand most of that off anyway. You shouldn’t have a problem w/ the chemical not being compatible. However, the most important thing is to clean the hell out of the surface to be painted w/ degreaser. Make sure it is smooth to the touch. Dings and imperfections will be amplified w/ the new glossy paint. You should degrease w/ a clean cloth always!!!
Here’s a quick and simplified list in order:
wash your car well, wash the underside if possible.
take car apart (trim, taillights, etc)
sand areas requiring bondo w/ 220
bondo
sand and sculpt those areas w/ 220
This will prob take a few attempts
once all dings and dents are bondoed sand whole car w/ 220
degrease
sand entire car w/ 400
degrease the hell out of your car
mask
degrease again
wipe down w/ multiple clean damp clothes
shoot primer
sand w/ 400
shoot primer
sand w/ 600
shoot color X 4
shoot clear X 4
let sit a day
pull masking CAREFULLY
put car back together
wait a week or more (I waited 2 months)
wash car
wet sand w/ 1500
wet sand w/ 2000
wash car
cutting process w/ course wheel and course compound
wash car
buffin process w/ fine wheel and fine compound
wash car
wax
That’s not 100% accurate and is somewhat dependant on the paint system you use.
Leif
Leif,
Firstoff thanks again for the fogs.
What kind of buffer did you use, just the vibrating circular power buffer or did you do it by hand?
Yep, circular power buffer. By hand is not really possible for a job like this.
No problem about the fogs:)
Leif
2simplex: if u want i have a video of each step in my painting process and i can explain each …that might make it a lil easier …e-mail me @ dualdtmz@hotmail.com
Originally posted by jgn77
good post… I ould like to know the procedure as ell. Leif did his car and It looks good. He should know the routine
your ‘W’ key fell off too? …haha:p
Here’s my Three-step paint job-
whats the fun in that?
Originally posted by 2simplex
whats the fun in that?
haha… its fun for people that do not have enough time to do that kind of job … let alone have your car out of commission for a few months…
Originally posted by jasperls
[B]
your ‘W’ key fell off too? …haha:p [/B]
The one at the computer lab did I suppose. Mine is just fine? hats it to you anyay? haha jk
wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
ARCHIVETHIS
Leif- did you mix hardener with the paint? I was told by the auto paint supplie store that clear coat is what they used to use and now hardener is the new thing. I had no clue on what they were saying. Could have been b.s but you seem like you would know a very decent amount on the subject. thanks.
good post - ARCHIVETHIS
hey heavy pork, if u go to www.wingswest.com and go to their tip section, it should help u out a little with what to do about painting. I know its just for body parts but the same principal applies to painting ur car. As for hardener… its just an additive that they add to the paint/clear coat to activate it into drying faster. Kinda like flex agent which is added to paint and clear coat to make them flexible for the purpose of painting bumpers, trims or body parts that “flex”. Hope that helps u out. Also remember to wear proper protective wear when spraying and having good ventilation.
As for priming and painting… rule of thumb is to try and stay with the same brand or are compatible.
Re: ARCHIVETHIS
Originally posted by heavypork
[B]Leif- did you mix hardener with the paint? I was told by the auto paint supplie store that clear coat is what they used to use and now hardener is the new thing. I had no clue on what they were saying. Could have been b.s but you seem like you would know a very decent amount on the subject. thanks.
good post - ARCHIVETHIS [/B]
Yeah, there’s a lot to take in. It’s not like you simply open up a can of paint just start spraying. There’s hardener, reducer, stuff like that and it is quite confusing. Luckily dad had plenty of painting experience and knew what to do. I’d just get the autobody supply place to give you detailed instructions. When I bought my paint (primer, sealer, color, & clear) they put about 10-15 units of product on the counter. Some in big cans and some in small. I was like, “ok.” It was quite confusing. But they gave us documentation and my Dad was able to figure everything out. Like I’ve said before, painting your own car is not for the faint of heart. I DO NOT recomend you do it.
Leif