Parts to replace while I have engine out?

Hey everyone,

I did some searching around but didn’t really come up with what I was looking for. I finally got the B17 out of my GSR yesterday as part of my cleanup/repair project for the winter. I’m getting ready to go over the engine and clean it up and replace any typical maintenance type parts. I’m not going to be rebuilding the engine, but I want to replace any parts that might cause problems down the road. So basically, what types of things are common practice to check/replace on a B-series engine when you remove it from the car? I already have to remove the head to try and fix two broken exhaust studs. I figured I would go ahead and do a whole once over on the engine. Any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance!


change the intake manifold gasket and hoses
pcv valve…
clutch if necessary; flywheel resurface, engine seals, timing belt and stuff

rear main seal. clutch kit. flywheel. t-belt waterpump and seals behind timing cover. maybe oilpan gasket if you have it on a engine stand. if its leaking. pretty much if it looks bad its gonna be easier to replace while you have the engine out of the car rather than in the car. if you plan on keeping the car i would definatly do the rear main seal while you had it out. due to the fact if it leaks later. you have to pull the tranny back out to get to it. hope that helps. any more questions just ask


92 GS-R #1367

also headgasket and valve cover seal. if your motor burns oil, go for the new rings and new valve seals too. exhaust manifold gaskets as well. maybe check your crank bearings for wear, if they are down to the third layer, change them

wow! Thanks guys! I’ll remember all this and work it into the schedule. All very good suggestions. If anyone else has anything to add PLEASE feel free to do so!


Looking for any final suggestions before I go to work on it. Anyone else have anything to add? Is there other stuff that I need to do while I have the head off of the engine?

check to see if your head is true with a straight edge (VERY high quality you should use) and feeler gauge, and also see if the deck of the engine is true with the same method. if it’s warped, get the head polished, and the block decked. also check cylinder interior diameters and check for conicity and out-of-roundness. if your cylinder walls are iced, you may need a hone job. check ring gap, ringland dimensions, and everything else you can possibly measure…if you’re gonna rebuild the motor you WILL need a shop manual for specs…do it the right way, and your motor will be like new! just follow the steps in your shop manual and if you dont have one, go get one they are really not expensive and an investment well worth it IMO