mine upper cowl is warped slightly more than the one pic on the last page.
i bought some new screws but havent put them on yet, i guess im just lazy cause its been like that since the summer.
i guess ill have to heat it up with my heat gun to flatten it out a little.
i have duct tape temporarily covering up that gaping hole. the wipers are beating on it constantly and the top layer of the duct tape is coming off, but the sticky residue is still holding :rockon:
thats cheap dollar store duct tape too, i bet real duct tape would hold up to that! GO DUCT TAPE!
about the fan motor
Thought I’d post this little tip: I’m on my 3rd blower motor for my '91 Integra (buy them used on eBay for about $25), this one I decided to just take out the two screws on the bottom for the hell of it to see what was going on. The whole thing came right apart, it’s a typically simple motor, I scrubbed out all the rust, cleaned it all up with WD-40, put some white grease in all the obvious spots, plugged it into the cable under the glove box, and voila, good as new, runs beautifully. I’m waiting to do this fix on the seals (THANK YOU TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO BOTHERED TO TAKE PIX AND HELP US ALL OUT!) before I reinstall the motor, so I can’t say my little repair job lasts forever, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t. It took about 25 minutes.
Ok, I put the cowl seals in but I want to take my blower motor out and clean it out and drain it like you did. I’m having a hell of a time removing the motor after removing the three screws and the vent hose, and disconnecting the electricity. There’s just no room to pull it out. How did you accomplish this? Did you remove the entire blower motor assembly from the white plastic fan housing or did you just remove the base of the blower moter near the electrical connector? (I have a '91 2-door.)
Have to take out the whole assembly
Hi:
Nope, the whole big white plastic thing has to come off of there. There are 3 or 4 bolts (I just remember 3) that can be accessed with a 12" extension on a socket wrench, one on the upper left that you can see if you contort yourself the right way, one behind on the right that you have to do by feel, and one I think on the bottom (I don't remember exactly); then it's a matter of kind of jiggling the thing out in just such a way. You need to remove your glovebox, which is easy (just lose the screws inside it), and be patient trying to triangulate the plastic thing out; it DOES come out this way. Watch as you do it; I vaguely remember there being another electrical connector you need to deal with as you bring it out. And I don't think undoing the clips that hold the 2 sides of the white thing together does anything for you...
Good luck…
G
Bumping up this AWESOME post.
Question for all you leak killers…
What parts of the blower/heater assembly can water get in if this leak is bad enough?
Just wanted to say thanks…I just finished the process and have been leak free for the last 3 days…I also took the time to paint my cowl, and wiper arms so know everything looks new…D
yea right the prices are wrong, i just bought all these things and it came out to 92 freakin dollars, it was like almost 5 dollars a piece!!!
Ok, I just did this fix today. It took about 1.5 hours. I replaced all of the SJ6 seals (8) under the air box filter. I would clean the surface before installing the new ones!!! They almost suction themselves on, which was very reassuring. Other parts: 2 SK7 clips for the left side of the filter cover (I bought 3, you only need 2); SA6 screw clips- bought 5, used 3; and 3 SK7 cap assemblies for the front cowl which needed replaced. This cost me $49.54 from the Acura dealer, the most expensive part being the SK7-003 clip- the smallest fucking part!!! falcon ur getting ripped off. I added silicone sealent along the foam seal line for my own sick purposes. It hasn’t rained yet, but from seeing everything apart I am certain that this was the source of the leak. VERY useful thread.
yeah I did this too over the weekend and my seals were shot so I feel good about it, don’t think it will leak anymore. Good thread and teg tip. Cost me $53 from the dealership.
well it’s leaking again…now i have to tear it all apart again:umno:
Does anyone have photos that illustrate this fix. The links in the original post are broken.
Thanks.
just go crazy with shoe goo on that panel. Done and done.
do you have to get these parts from acura or can honda get them too…no acura dealer withing 80 miles or so
Why dont you try calling the honda dealer near you?
Bringing back from the dead. Anyone saved the pics to the original posts. Need to do this cuz we just had a storm and both my floor is wet! Thanks!
+1 I bought this stuff, and read the discription but-
[QUOTE=Orlando_GSR;2080295]+1 I bought this stuff, and read the discription but-
[/QUOTE]
See page 5, first post by deonsbedroom for pics.
Anyone who is looking to purchase these parts, I just ordered mine from www.CurryAcuraParts.com and it cost me right around $65 for everything. Their prices are very competitive with other Acura Parts sites, but they offer free FedEx ground shipping, so it saves a little bit of money. Hope this helps.
[QUOTE=NGUSPEED;2201616]See page 5, first post by deonsbedroom for pics.
Anyone who is looking to purchase these parts, I just ordered mine from www.CurryAcuraParts.com and it cost me right around $65 for everything. Their prices are very competitive with other Acura Parts sites, but they offer free FedEx ground shipping, so it saves a little bit of money. Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]
thanks bro, now I need to save it in my photobucket account!!!
[QUOTE=NGUSPEED;2201616]See page 5, first post by deonsbedroom for pics.
Anyone who is looking to purchase these parts, I just ordered mine from www.CurryAcuraParts.com and it cost me right around $65 for everything. Their prices are very competitive with other Acura Parts sites, but they offer free FedEx ground shipping, so it saves a little bit of money. Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]
thanks for the website bro just finished ordering all the parts now to fix ma leak on the da it is once they come in
I did the same thing and I’m still getting water inside.
I don’t get it, every guide I have read pretty much said that if I siliconed those two holes (over the blower opening) to hell and back, the leaks would stop.
Dm
I know this thread is really old and I apologize for bumping it. I read through it and will just replacing the boot seals and the other part actually fix it or do you have to use the shoo goo. I have this problem right now and I’m trying to get it taken care of.
I called Acura and part # 91502-SK7-013 was 3.23 a peice for the grommet x 6
and part # 91608-SJ6-003 was 2.57 a peice for boot seal x 8 so it was going to be $42
I am going to try to find it cheaper online, but is there anything else that can break that I should order incase.
And just wondering if anyone has found a good solution to this problem.
I’m not great with cars but i will try this out, my blower motor seems to be fine (still blows) do i still need those other two parts?