I’m trying to bring my Integra back to life after being dead for a few years. Does anyone sell a “patch panel” for behind the rear bumper?
I did try to make my own and failed as you can see in the photo. Ive just make a bigger mess = (
no. You will need to get some sheetmetal and cut/bend it to the right shape. Or have a shop do it for you, since that would be hard as hell. (or at least it would be for me…)
You think with so many DA’s around them would sell a pre stamped patch = (
Haha, wishful thinking. The thing is, more than just DA’s have rear-quarter panal rust. Civics have it too. The extent of the rusting before it is caught is differnt on every car, thats one reason there is no “pre-stamped patch” available.
Another is who would make it? I don’t konw of any company that makes custom fit ‘patches’ just copied body panals (certi-sh…I mean fit)
Whatever you do, make sure you cut out ALL the rust before welding a new panal in. And you can’t let bare metal be exposed to the air for too long, it will rust.
Thats just about all I konw on this subject, hth a little.
Good luck!
well im sure if someone would make rear wheel well patches for hondas/acuras they would sell like hot cakes.
guess ill try to make a new patch. lets hope it turns out better.
Or take a saw-z-all (sp?) to your local wrecking yard. I am sure if you can find a shell that has some other damage they would let you cut out the sections you need.
ok my second patch turned out a bit better if only i had a real welder i could do nice work.
first cut away all the rust, you cant weld to rust.
start to fab up your patch, spend your most time here if you make it fit well everything else is a cake walk.
weld your patch in place ( i suck )
bondo!
sanded with 80grit
then i primed it. I still need to add some more bondo here and there but over all im very happy with how it turned out.
I applaud the effort. Although I am a bit concerned about the rust that was still on the edge of the wheel well, and the gaps in the spot welds. I am not a body man, but I have seen a lot done. I certainly couldn’t do any better, so 
for having the balls to do it.
That’s awsome that you had the balls to just dive in man, most don’t. For that, Good for you (I’d pat you on the back but I can’t fit my arm through the screen on this computer).
I am a bodyman and unforunatley you are in trouble with that patch. The welds need to be complete. If any water at all gets to the filler it is like a sponge and will absorb every drop, turning your teg into a rust bucket. We spend a lot of time in school learning to do that because it’s harder than it sounds. Even when all the welds connect together and look solid it usually isn’t. Our final welding exam was to fabricate and weld together a steel box(like in highschool) but it had to hold water without leaking and we had to do it without heat warping, plus finish it with filler, prime and paint and still have it be perfectly square. Most peoples boxes look like shower heads. If you don’t want to grind out all your filler then the best thing I could suggest to give yourself a fighting chance is to undercoat the hell out of the backside of that patch. Do that even if you do go back and take out your filler to re-weld. And if you do re-weld, dust the bare metal with some etching primer before you start with the filler again because the Zinc in it will galvanize the steel. And get rid of every bit of scaleing from the welding before the filler because it will react to it and lose adhesion.
yea I cant weld worth crap, Ive got a 75amp stick welder I found at a yard sale for 20 bucks.
and yes I have undercoated the crap out of it.
I dont expect the body to last forever she has seen a number of northern ontario winters, I just have a hard time letting go after all it was my first car 8 years ago.
good tip with the primer i would of never known.