I take no responsibilitiy for you fing up your engine. This is my photo log of ME doing this to MY engine. Although I do hope this can help those of you wanting to do this yourself but unsure of the time/work investment. It took me right about an hour to do this, and that’s including taking the photographs. So to sum up, I’m not responsible if you f up your engine. That said, enjoy and hope I’ve helped.
ahh yes the beauty of still having a stock engine…
the wires:
a. are already numbered.
b. are only long enough to reach to the proper hole…thus creating a pretty “ass-proof” way of puttin’ 'em back in. dunno about aftermarket wires, im assuming they’re all the same length?
…also make sure that you tighten everything with a torque wrench (no guessing guys).
Most important are the nuts on the valve cover itself (7-8lb ft) no more no less. It’s also a good idea to tighten them from the iside towards the outside (to seal the gasket properly).
This is an easy job to do in 15-30min and you should have little or no difficulty. You may want to use a plastic wedge or put a ran on the tip of the flathead to avoid scrathing any surfaces…
oh man…that was too funny…about the old valve cover…kickin it…i almost died when you said to kick it again to make sure it wasnt creeping up on you…
anyways…i planned on giving this a shot myself too…to do my valve cover and cam seal…i’m thinking i might have a buddy of mine help me out…but thanks for the step by step…gives me an idea of what’s in store for me
I got oil leaking inside my spark plugs! Well, it is on the spark plug wire inside the engine head (not on the spark plug itself inside the engine). So does changing those rounded O-seals for the spark plugs that u refused to show us how enough to stop it? Or is it the seals on the Engine head that need replacing? I hope not!
__Neex
My torque wrench (zenet-Germany) starts @ 30 lb.ft!!!
I haven’t seen any with a range as low as 7 lb.ft!!:shy:
Yes, ya just change the cover gasket, which comes with the o-rings, and that should help your problem. It MAY be something more serious, but for less than 20 bucks and an hour of your time, that’s a good place to start.
If you have a Sears store nearby check there, I got a craftsman torque wrench (well 2 actually, one heavy duty and one for smaller amounts) for about 30 bucks that is calibrated for 1-25 ft-lbs. pretty pimp if ya ask me.
oh and here’s a pic of the new o-rings in place, just look on the spark plug holes:
I didn’t see any cam seal? Were you saving that for another day? I forgot to check if my old gasket was dead, I hope it doesn’t come back and hunt me down. I didn’t even kick it. How stupid of me.
so i took out my shitty hole-in-one radiator (about the size of a quarter was the hole) and put in a nice new Toyo Dual-Core Aluminum (OEM Fit hehehe) piece of art…hehe it’s bigger and nicer too so it has better cooling. That coupled with a nice phatty 1.3 bar cap (coming soon, but not yet, wanna get my new engine built first heh heh) should provide adequate cooling. soon as i get a couple silicone hoses to route a line to the reservoir tank (old one was stubborn so i said “fuck it imma cut it” and did)
i’m tired tho. here’s the pic of me kicking the old radiator to make sure it’s dead…
zoom
and yes, there’s a little bit (heh okay a lot) of glycol in the ground…somehow i drained the raddy, it stopped dripping, which to me meant it was empty, then when i took off the lower hose it just gushed all over the damn place…
