this is what a thread looks like when it’s NOT in the block :sad:
oh well will be fixed soon
oil leak around cylinder #1 where headgasket was the most damaged and head studs were the loosest when removing- as I stated before we almost could HAND TURN the studs out
cylinder #1(far right) - coolant was sitting on the dome of the pistons(ITR btw) when head was removed
cylinder #2 still coolant sitting on dome but not as excessive
cylinder #3 looks to be normal
cylinder #1 ditto- one drop of coolant was from me
the cylinder walls and pistons(ITR btw) look to be in running order. There was no piston slap ever noticed while running. The only damage is the threads for the head studs in the block- which will be overdrilled, rethreaded for an insert, and the head studs will thread into the inserts. Will take pics of this procedure- which should be on sunday–
what happend , are those arp head studs… im almost done with my ls/vtec im using gsr head studs on my b16 head… i hope i dont go through what youve gone through…but if you do rethread your block what headstuds will you use?
Use ARP you are going to be sorry with those head bolts, and what did you use for your rod bolts? Hopefully ARP as well…you will definately be sorry if you don’t have ARP rod bolts…just a thought
I have always found that stock head bolts work fine for low boost and NA applications, even ARP head studs are not strong enough to keep the head from lifting at 20PSI+.
oh and if I didnt make it clear in either of those links, this has NOTHING to do with the fact that it’s an ls/vtec setup and EVERYTHING to do with the fact that the car was stolen twice and abused beyond what ANY motor would be able to handle
Originally posted by VR-BottleFedTeg Use ARP you are going to be sorry with those head bolts, and what did you use for your rod bolts? Hopefully ARP as well…you will definately be sorry if you don’t have ARP rod bolts…just a thought
i never heard of arp head bolts failing? have you? i guess i still continue to use them… i mean its no difference from putting stock head bolts in.
ok read the link dooood :bang: - the ARP bolts did not fail the threads in the block while threaded with the stock b16a head studs did- the ARP threads were threaded in the block after we removed the head to see how much taller they were and when we put pressure on them pulling them away from the block the threads came out
Originally posted by gen2ls/vtec
[B]ok read the link dooood :bang: - the ARP bolts did not fail the threads in the block while threaded with the stock b16a head studs did- the ARP threads were threaded in the block after we removed the head to see how much taller they were and when we put pressure on them pulling them away from the block the threads came out
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im sorry i was replying to vr-bottle teg saying ill be sorry if i was using arps… what arp headstuds did you use. im using the gsr ones arp pn# 208-4303 which ones did you use im using a b18b block with a b16 head
the one’s listed for the B18c will be the best- the first pic on the latest bunch I listed here- with the two different head studs- shows you how much longer the ARP b18c head stud is than the b16a stock head stud- also look at how long the threads are(unfortunately the threads in the blocks are not lond enough to utilize the entire available contact patch though)- actually since wew’re using these inserts to rethread the block, there will be a much larger contact patch between the threads and the block- so the force it will withstain before failure should be much higher. I have heard of many FI car builders doing this to begin with before failure occurs
and no need to be sorry- just my error on what you were referencing
Originally posted by gen2ls/vtec
[B]the one’s listed for the B18c will be the best- the first pic on the latest bunch I listed here- with the two different head studs- shows you how much longer the ARP b18c head stud is than the b16a stock head stud- also look at how long the threads are(unfortunately the threads in the blocks are not lond enough to utilize the entire available contact patch though)- actually since wew’re using these inserts to rethread the block, there will be a much larger contact patch between the threads and the block- so the force it will withstain before failure should be much higher. I have heard of many FI car builders doing this to begin with before failure occurs
and no need to be sorry- just my error on what you were referencing
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good luck with your project im stil debating if these are the right studs people say use gsr arp studs on b6 heads maybe i should order stock b16’s ones i dunno… i ordered my itr/b20 oil pump sept 30th and the dealer says its not coming the 19th of october so im pretty mush held back another week which sucks good luck with your project
another questionn… my arp head studs i finally hapend to look at them…there are two different sides of the threads anyone know which side goes to the block?.. one side seems to have more threads and seem to look thicker while the other side has less threads and looks thinner?.. im assuming taht the one with more threads has to go in the block?. anyone out there know?
i think the b16 head bolts were too short. had you used factory b18c bolts, the threads would have been longer as well & it wouldn’t have stripped. but i think the heli-coils repair in your block will work great.
well its not helicoils its steel threaded inserts- and yes b18c stock head bolts would more than likely have held but if they did, im pretty positive something else would have failed under the stresses the motor was put under
cylinder #1(far right) - coolant was sitting on the dome of the pistons(ITR btw) when head was removed
cylinder #2 still coolant sitting on dome but not as excessive
cylinder #3 looks to be normal
cylinder #1 ditto- one drop of coolant was from me
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