I would like to know what is up with my furture set up, I’m going to go the all motor way, but down the road add a 75 shot of zex once I build the bottom end, add any changes you think I should make,Thanks!-
91 ls integra($3000.00, 140,000miles)
tanabe rm exhaust
dc sports ss header
AEM cai w/bypass
AEM fpr
str fuel rail
skunk2 coil-overs
tokico blues all around
neuspeed tower strut bar
neuspeed short shifter
catco catalytic converter
full msd ignition
apexi s-afc
autometer silver tach
yeah I know, but this is a list of aftermarket parts that I want to build up slowly, I’m only 17, and still lookin for a job in my very small town so I can even buy the car. I hope to get on soon and dump my cash into it. Thanks for the reply!
First of all, I think u should go with a solo short shifter and tokico whites instead of blues. Second, whats the point in getting a big ass silver tach when u have one right in front of ur face on ur gauge cluster??? (I don’t get why people do that.) Catalytic converters don’t give u more horsepower. Maybe one or two hp, but won’t make a difference. Just makes ur exhaust sound more like a coffee can. Those are my honest opinions.
my suggestion is getting a b16 swap intake header and exhaust you should be able to get all that stuff for 2000-3000 dollars total and u can get used springs and suspension parts , you will be much happier for the money than the 140,000 ls motor
I’d say get a b20, build it up if you want, it’ll be cheaper, the same or a little more than a b16 swap, and a built b20 would smoke a stock b16 (heck, a b16 has trouble with b18b’s, so why dish out 1600 for it?). i/h/e you gotta start with first though, that’s what i’m in the process of doin right now. My greddy mx comes in friday, and i should have my AGX’s installed up front with eibach pro kits by then, and possibly tokico blues in the rear if time. Also be puttin on the rear tie bar i got from Ben Ogle later this week too (thanks ben!). Orderin rims later this week (Rota C8’s Gun Metal probably) then the AEM CAI will probably be next,
leave out the fuel rail, get a str exhaust cam end seal. the tach is just for show so leave it out. get a set of ST sway bars in place of it. I would get cams, springs and gears instead of the s-afc. You’ll see much better gains on a 91 with I/H/E and cams than you would with fuel rail, tach, s-afc.
IceMan’s are more practical and perform better for these reasons: made of a low-density polymer that conducts NO heat at all; can be either short ram or cold air intake- two piece setup; tapered piping to increase air intake velocity and swirling effect; very light weight. Also, it’s cheaper. You can’t beat it. Everyone who owns one loves it.
Originally posted by 707IntegraGS IceMan’s are more practical and perform better for these reasons: made of a low-density polymer that conducts NO heat at all; can be either short ram or cold air intake- two piece setup; tapered piping to increase air intake velocity and swirling effect; very light weight. Also, it’s cheaper. You can’t beat it. Everyone who owns one loves it.
Iceman’s are good, but i’ve seen dyno charts that show AEM givin about 3 more hp than the iceman. I forget where, i’ll see if i can find the site but there’s more than just dynoes that i’ve seen this from, a lot of people say AEM is a little better than Iceman. And it’s not like AEM is THAT much more expensive, and sure it’s only a couple hp, but everything adds up.
I have heard that AEM is almost the best, and have never heard of any cold air intake that gives you more horse power, does anyone know of any better. I personally think that the iceman isn’t as good as the AEM anyone have a better one???
