Well? This is the reason why I never try and do anything electrical myself.
My car cigarette lighter wasnt working properly so while I have the centre console apart I thought I would fix it. Well, halfway through trying to get it all back together suddenly my car started doing crazy things.
Suddenly out of nowhere whenever I turn the key to the on position a relay under the dash starts clicking madly…Now, since this started happening yesterday now my map lights wont come on. (Its a 90 GS) and neither will my defroster. I should also note that my car has an older Viper alarm system installed that I have no FOB for and has never been armed since I have owned the car.
The relay thats making all the noise is to the left of the steering wheel not far from(and plugged in to) the fuse box looks like this. [/IMG]
The funny thing is, as the dinging/clicking continues the defog switch light flashes with each tone…And If I want to get it to stop, all I have to do is depress the button for either non working map light. Once its pressed all dinging will stop. Still cant use the map lights or the defogger, or hear a seat belt chime…But all else seems ok.
I really have no idea how to check any of this but I DO have a multi meter and know how to follow difrections.
Start by removing the alarm and any wiring associated with it.
The type of connector used, “T tap” will damage wiring, [cut through wire strands] they are crimped onto, you may find a lead that looks good but all the strands have been cut, the last few when you worked on the lighter issue.
Each time you remove a T tap you will need to inspect the wire strands under the insulation, easily done by pulling back, [in either direction] on the insulation where the T tap cut into it, do not be surprised if the wire just pulls apart, very common.
The map lights are on the same fuse as the dome and trunk/cargo area light, fuse 14 - 15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box, if dome light still works , power may not be the problem, but test the white/blue lead, [red on light side of plug] going to the map lights, the black lead is the ground, you should have both 12V+ constant and a ground at the map light plug.
The relay may be a park light flash relay, depends on where on the fuse box it is plugged into, but it is not stock so remove it.
BTW, what is the model of the Viper alarm? :hmm: 94
Its A Viper 650XT. Comes with power locks, motion sensor, and an AUX for whatever else and a kill switch. (And door switches)
I have never owned an alarm and wouldnt even know where to start disconnecting it. So many wires. :S And if I disconnect it then I cant use power doorlocks?
I think I may know one of the T connectors your talking about. Theres a four prong plug thingy that goes into the fuse box at the top and there seems to be a big fat t connector attached to it. When I move that around it actually does effect the clicking. Makes it fast, or slow, or sometimes stop so I will start to look there for a loose connection.
Oh and yes the overhead dome light doesnt work now either. It did before this incident…I m going to check that fuse first thing
UPDATE: I replaced fuse 14 (it had indeed blown) and now everything is fine.
Sorry for not checking that first but the way the car was reacting I thought something was malfunctiuoning badly. I would say it blew last night sometime when I incorrectly hooked up/tested my repair. So wth the whole unit out of the car, I re-soldered the connections and it looks like it (the lighter) works properly now as well. It turns out the “clicking” was isolated not to the aftermarket relay I had shown in the pic, but to a relay that sits right in the underdash fusebox itself. In case that means anything.
I will see how thigns go in the next few days but for now it looks like its ok.
My question is now though, can I not just buy a replacment remote from Viper for this alarm and once again access all the features of my alarm system including power locks?
It seems like such a waste just sitting there but seemingly in perfect working order.
Thanks so much for the help. I wish i could do something to return the favor. Cheers!
I would still remove the alarm and it’s wiring, it’s not that hard, unplug harnesses from brain, fallow leads to where they are connected to the cars wiring and disconnect and make any repairs needed.
If the alarm is still good and you can get a remote for it, then the alarm can be reinstalled properly.
There is no reason the power door locks would not continue to work if the alarm is removed, the alarm will have a 3 pin plug with a green lead and a blue lead, they control key-less entry, you do not have a remote for the alarm anyway, so not key-less entry.
BTW, how are you operating the power door locks now???
I would still remove the alarm and it’s wiring, it’s not that hard, unplug harnesses from brain, fallow leads to where they are connected to the cars wiring and disconnect and make any repairs needed.
You make it sound so simple…But its all working upside down on your head and everythigs zip tied in there to all sorts of other stuff. lol Yes, I know…Tough it out.
There is no reason the power door locks would not continue to work if the alarm is removed, the alarm will have a 3 pin plug with a green lead and a blue lead, they control key-less entry, you do not have a remote for the alarm anyway, so not key-less entry.
That’s the thing, I really wo uld like to access the keyless entry feature. The fobs are available on Vipers Website.
BTW, how are you operating the power door locks now???/
It took me a while to figure it out but, two little buttons that were mounted underneath my dash operated the doorlocks. They also engaged and dis-engaged when the car was switched on and off. (Always locked while running…Incidentally I would love to get rid of this feature if possible.)
…if the rest of thew alarm is installed the same way it will not be very dependable and you will continue to run into electrical problems.
What is the correct method? Nevermind I’ll add that into my research.
The “ign. controled” door locks can be programed on or off, obviously they are programed on now, you may even be able to select just ign. lock or unlock. :whisper:94
Last night someone tried to steal the car (didnt even have a stereo in it) and destroyed both doors in the process. I mean, both doors…Can you believe it? Buckled and cracked the metal door skin, did almost $1000 in damage I’d say. Chased him down, called the cops but they couldn’t find the guy. Oh well, at last he was stupid. If he knew what he was doing at all the car would have been long gone.
Guess Im gonna uninstall/install that alarm afterall…:bang:
FCM, I guess I need to get this thing in fairly quickly, any chance you can give me a heads up on the proper way to make these T connections?
Yes, do not use T taps at all, all alarm connections should be soldered, your G2 is pretty easy to do.
You mentioned that the power door locks are aftermarket and there was 2 switches under the dash to lock and unlock the doors, those switches will be wired to a pr of relays, if wired properly one wire from each switch will go to one of the relays, [lock switch to lock relay and unlock switch to unlock relay] the alarms lock and unlock outputs will be wired to the same terminals on the relays as the switches are.
You can leave all that as is for now, including the 3pin plug for the alarms door lock output, as that all seems to be working properly.
I was able to put the alarm in Valet mode. So, apparently the alarm is still operational.
Im going to check/remove what I can this afternoon, but I may try to get the doorlocks operational first. The lock cylinders were damaged beyond repair but I think all the inner door stuff is still ok.
I guess I should order a remote for this thing first thing?
Yes, get a remote first and program it to see if the system works, being able to put it into and out of valet mode is a good sign, but not necessarily a sign that the rest of the system is working.:stare:94
Thanks again for the help fcm. I managed to find a remote locally (it was not easy lemme tell ya), $80 later I seem to have a working alarm system. I was able to program the remote and can now enter and exit my car via the keyless entry. (Which is key considering my lock cylinders are badly damaged and dont work)
Now, as per you recommendation of removal and re-installation…Would it be ok for me to just check each connection and solder/tape where neccesary?
(Im still trying to find a lazy way out of this. )
Also, I am going to continue to read through the manual and learn about this thing but in your expertise…is there any feature I should avoid/use? (VRS Recovery, kill switches ect…)
Considering I didn’t have a stereo in the car at the time I know they were trying to steal the car so I am going to add a kill switch from TegTips regardless.
Hope your weather in Kelowna is as nice as it is here in Van!!!
Yes you could use the " lazy way out ", what is important is that the connections are good.
There is no reason not to use any of the alarms features if they work.
If the Teg Tip kill switch is still the fuel pump power lead kill switch, forget it, it is easily bypassed.
A better one is a switch on the PGM-FI Main Relay, a small, easily hidden, 1A on/off switch installed on the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, [ground is for injector relays coil] will “kill” the fuel pump, injectors, one of the powers to the ECU/ECM and power to a few engine sensors, kill a whole bunch of birds with one stone, and it’s a low current ground, [less then 250-mA] no 12V+ power to deal with.:whisper: 94
PS, Weather here sucks, still winter weather, cold and icy
That switch idea is perfect, effective, somewhat devious, and most importantly, very easy to do.
I have developed a couple more alarm related questions if I may…
How on earth does one program one of these alarms? As in, is it only an authorized dealer who is in possesion of the software and hardware needed to set the AUX abilities? I am interested in particular in having the windows go up or down using that AUX feature. The trunk hatch would be ideal but mine is cable operated and I don’t really wanna buy an actuator or solonoid or whatever and go through the trouble installing it.
Thanks.
Sorry to hear about your weather, Vancouver has been uncharacteristically sunny and warm…Its kinda spooky actually.
All you need is the install guide for programing, although for window control no programing is necessary, you will however need a window module, a DEI 529T will do two windows up when alarm is armed
The DEI 530T will do two windows up whan alarm is armed, windows down useing an EXT button, vent the windows 1" if EXT button is pressed within a few sec. of arming the alarm, [windows will roll all the way up and then down about 1"]
The 530T will also fully automate both windows, [like the auto down of the drivers window] in both direction with one touch stop, [press and release up or down to stop window when it’s going in either direction].
All that is needed from the alarm is the GWA, [for roll up and one of the EXTs for down and venting, all connections are made in the drivers door, you will need to run a power lead and the GWA and EXT into the door.
Yea I see the weather is nice now, but you did get “uncharacteristically” dumped on this year also.
I lived in Van for many years and I can remember only 2 years of “winter” back in the early 60s when I was a kid we got about 10" of snow that stayed for more then one day and in 96 after moving back from Winterpeg we had some 60cm in a few days, that one was one hell of a laff, a friend and I, [both just back from Winnipeg] were the only two who showed up for work, at all the locations [AVU] that first morning, that snowfall shut the whole city down, just a normal Winnipeg winter day without the -30.:stare: 94
Yeah these Van winters sure are strange. This was my first full winter here, grew up in NF and spent a lot of time in Onterrible after that…Its no Winterpeg for temps, but it sure can suck.
Thanks for the response on the DEI 530T. I actually found one on a local forum and am considering picking it up. I would love to get that working for the summer, the car is black on black so I bet that venting action could come in handy.
Black on black:shock:
My 94LS is red w/black interior and it will get so hot you can’t touch the steering wheel if I forget to put up the windshield sun shield and vent the windows.
Not sure if I can give up my 89 Dynasty, [white w/light blue interior and A/C] that I got as a winter car, once the Teg is back on the road.:stare:94
Damn, Im going to have to get me one of those dash sahde thingys arent I…Last teg was blue on blue, not so bad …But at least this one has a sunroof and working AC! knock on wood
Quick question if I may related to the stereo, my rear speakers are shot and im on a budget. Any recomendations? You mentioned being able to disable tweeters and such, can you just purchase like, 6 inch woofers with no tweeters? Is there such thing?
Thanks!
Oh and btw, it hasnt stopped raining since I told you how sunny it was lol
Or just check out the bargain bin blowout table at any car audio shop, or ask, for defective 6.5" component sets, something that is missing tweeters or x-overs or something, just as long as mids are OK.:hmm:94
Chit, just looked outside, looks like a blizzard outside, and I just got the Teg out of the shop into my driveway.:bawl:
