Hey Guys. I am looking for anymore information possible on how to replace the hatch on my 1993 Integra. If anyone knows that’d be great. Pics of course would be awesome but just a general idea of what to do would be great. Thanks. I posted a few days ago and haven’t gotten much response yet. Didn’t know if maybe the thread got lost.:
I have a 93 3-door Integra Hatchback. My current hatch door is rotted above key hole. Rear window defrost is fine. No tint. This is how what I want. I bought a hatch at the junk yard with a window that is tinted and am not sure if the defrost works as well. If I bring this to a place what is my cheapest/best option. Have them completely swap the hatches and remove the tint myself and hope the defrost works? Have them take the window off of my current rotted hatch after they remove it, then have them take the other glass off of the new hatch, keep it as a spare and have window #1 with no tint and w/ working defrost off of rotted hatch put on the new hatch and then put on car?
Sounds very confusing. It is. Depending on how much this costs I also want to have it primered now or eventually. Would they have to remove it to primer it later on or would it not matter to them whether they did it now while it is off the car or later when it’s on the car. I also bought a OEM spoiler with a small crack that I am hoping they can fix up and also primer/install. Whether or not I prime it now should I have them put the wing on since the 4 holes are going to be there in the trunk and I wouldn’t want them to leak? Can I order the exact bolts/washers that are from factory for the spoiler from anywhere rather than have them possibly put random ones on there? Thanks guys.
Which plastic has to come off to reach the wire harness for the defrost? The upper plastic that touches the headliner or the vinyl around the window? Does the headliner have to come off? I think I may have cut the wires that connect to the harness but I can just tape them up or may end up having the window swapped anyways. Will I have trouble lining the hatch up or should it just fit flush and lock no problem? Sorry for so many questions. I’ve never done it before and I actually have to do this on the street and try avoiding a ticket from inspectional services. So the less screwups I have the better. Should i disconnect the struts fro the hatch or from the car first? Does it matter? SHOULD they be extended when I unscrew them? If i primered it how long will it be fine without water tearing it up? Will it be ok riding around with the exposed wing holes and emblem holes without them rusting until I have the money to install the wing and primer it all??
Get a helms (hell even a hayes) manual for your car. Its simple. It will show you what you need to take off step by step. Honestly its between 4-8 bolts (going from memory)You might need an extra set of hands to remove the hatch.
Sorry Junkman. I had a big mess in the first thread. I’ve requested for all previous threads to be removed. IS there anyway to look at the Haynes 'manual online? i thought that was only for engine related fixes. Thanks.
in order to get at the hinge bolts, you have to take off the hatch struts. this will allow the door to open much wider than usual. i think it’s about 4 bolts that you have to loosen. 2 on the right and 2 on the left. i think they are 10mm?? you may need a box wrench to get at them and another person to stop the hatch from dismembering you. as far as the wiring goes, i think i undid some plugs that were near the hinges but i don’t remember.
you should be ok. removing it will take you about 40 minutes if you have never done it before. Make sure to use alot of wd40 on the hinge bolts
Hey gil. I’ve heard alot of people say they’ve had problems ‘lining’ their hatch up after they’ve swapped it. is it possible I have this problem? The hatch that’s there now fits it perfectly. It’s just rusted. I am also trying to figure out exactly what I have to take off to get to the plugs for the rear defrost.
Thanks gil. I am also going to be interested in your cupholder by the way. Just no $$$ right now.
As far as i can remember, the holes are set so there is no adjustment needed. if you do have to align it, just do what i used to do on chevy hoods… semi tighten the nuts and close the hatch. closing it will align it. lift it up gently and tighten all the way. I think the entire harness sits on the right side of the hatch? I would say try the hatch and see if it works. if it does not, you can get at the defroster connections by taking off the bottom/ side plastic pieces off.
I appreciate all your responses gil. Such a simple response but that is what has been holding me back from doing it. Your method should work just fine. Then after it’s installed worry about the plugs and crap. Very smart. I may have clipped the wired on the NEW window deforst but unless I want to take that tint off myself and still not be sure whether all of the defrost works I may just install the hatch myself then take it to a place to swap the window. I also had some questions on the primering/painting of it above. What do you think?
Cupholder note to GIL only: Yeah man… I may be able to get the cupholder this Thursday. I would want one that drops right in allr eady to go. i just had a new radio installed so i may have to take all of that off… the 2nd din below they just attahced like a little pocket to put CDs in. maybe i should take some pics to see if it will still work… or will it screw into the radio frame the way the old slot for storage used to connect to the factory radio?
Hey guys. Well I swapped my hatch. Finally. Problem: I was NOT able to get the 4 screws that hold the hatch on to the latch off. I tried a box wrench, ratchet wrench, plyers and anything else that fit in there. I had to remove the four bolts that go under the headliner. I put the hatch on but have not finished putting together the inside of the car yet. I have to buy some silicone to put around the bolts to help prevent any leaks now that the paint and the epoxy have been messed with. What silicone do you guys recommend.
I also had a slight problem lining the hatch up. The bolts on the hatch/latch combo were not touched on the new hatch so I didn’t bother trying to check if they were loose. The headliner bolts are screwed in nice and tight just awaiting the silicone. Is there anythign else that would throw my alignment of the hatch off just by a bit. The hatch on the right lower side actually sticks out a tiny, tiny bit too much. Right where the Integra emblem goes on the right side of the hatch.
I will have pictures up once I finish all of the wiring. The hatch was bought from the junkyard so the cable were all cut. I will spend the day today taping cables back together and putting all the plastic and the headliner back up in my car. Thanks you guys for all the help. I am definetely open for any suggestions on lining the hatch up a bit snugger with the car if possible.
