For those that have these subs… which kind of box is recommended for a 10" Kicker L5? Sealed or ported?
I listen to mainly alternative rock from System of a Down to Staind type music…
A Kicker L5 will work in either type of box, a sealed box will give a tighter/cleaner more accurate bass response, it will be a smaller box and a lot easier to build
In a vented box, [slot port recommended] bass response will be “deeper”, [lower F3 point], more efficient, [louder] but will be harder to build.
Either way, the bass you get will depend on the quality of the box you build, it is critical that the box is built properly and to “spec”, [proper internal volume, proper port volume, absolutely airtight, and solid construction.
I also recommend a 1x500W RMS amp to drive it, [sub is 450W continuous] best sounding is the DVC 4 ohm wired in series for an 8 ohm final load, although the DVC 2 ohm, [wired to 4 ohms] will also work very well, lower then 4 ohm loads lose SQ and are not recommended. 94
Thanks for the info fcm… you always come through with all my questions. And to make sure… I have a single 4ohm dvc L5 so I’m supposed to wire it like the 4th diagram labeled “8 ohm” correct?
Oh and I have an MTX Thunder 502 amp but in bridged mode, it pumps out 500 watt rms at 4 ohms, can I still drive the sub even if it was wired to an 8 ohm final load? Will it harm my amp?
The amp is too “small” for your sub, it will only make 1x250W RMS into 8 ohms and will not be stable below 4 ohms, [wired in parallel your sub would be 2 ohms]
You need to find an amp that is 1x500W RMS into 8 ohms, [that would normally be an amp that is 1x1000W RMS into 4 ohms].
Your only other option is to wire the sub in parallel for a 2 ohm load and find an amp that is 1x500W RMS into 2 ohms, [1x250W RMS into 4 ohms].
With that said, you can use the MTX amp, 1x250W RMS into 8 ohms and it will work, as long as you do not drive the amp into constant clipping it will not hurt the sub, SQ will be very good but as you must understand, output will be less then your sub a capable of. 94
You said “You need to find an amp that is 1x500W RMS into 8 ohms, [that would normally be an amp that is 1x1000W RMS into 4 ohms]”, how come I can’t seem to find any amps with an 8 ohm spec… all they have are 4 ohm mono amps… what do you recommend?
Ok I have another question…
I have a spare MTX Thunder 302 amp http://www.realmofexcursion.com/ampguts/MTX_Thunder_302/ and also an ol’school JL 12w6 http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/8-12W6_BDS.pdf in a sealed box.
So if I was to bridge the amp into a final load of 4ohms, how do I wire the
12w6 (which is a DVC 6ohm sub) so it can push out the most power without harming amp or sub? What’s the most logical wiring of both amp and sub? Thanks in advance fcm! :rockon:
The amp that is 1x1000W RMS into 4 ohms will be 1x500W RMS into 8 ohms, that applies to most amps, it does not apply to amps with regulated power supplies.
You don’t, “bridge the amp into a final load of 4ohms” you bridge the amp and you wire the sub(s) to a final load of 4ohms.
The 12W6 can be wired to a final load of 12 ohms, [VCs wired in series] or a final load of 3 ohms, [VCs wired in parallel].
The MTX Thunder 302 is not stable below 4 ohms when bridged and will make less then 1x125W RMS into 12 ohms, so again wrong amp and sub. 94
Ok now I get it. Thanks a bunch fcm. :rockon: Time to go amp shopping then…