While there is no ‘direct’ bolt-on, the 88-91 Civic rack can be used. You will have to shim the driver’s side rear bolt so as to angle the shaft of the rack to get the coupler to fit. The passenger side of the rack is smaller in diameter. I used the round bushing of the Civic combined with the bushing
of the Integra and the bracket fit snug. Now if only my car were off the jackstands, I could actually let you know how this works.
If anyone reading this post does this before I get my car on the road, please let us know the results.
HTH
Don’t mind the grime…
This is added by member battlecat (thanks Daniel!):
also…
as a side note…
Since the EF rack is a smaller diameter than the DA rack, you might be wondering if you could swap the EF rack cradle in place of the DA cradle to match up rack diameters…
The answer is no. The EF cradle positions the LCA mount about 1/2" too far back, making the swap supsension geometry wise, a very bad idea.
There a number of members that have chosen to remove their power steering belts to relieve a little effort for the engine. Some have gone as far as removing the PS unit and plugging the rack. Both of these ways leave you with increased effort for the driver to turn the wheel at low speeds. The Civic rack is lighter and also has different gear ratios so the effort to turn at low speeds is less. It will take a little more turning to go lock to lock and steering will be slightly less responsive, but, the advantages are good for my needs.
It’s the proper way to convert your car from power steering equipped to non-powersteering. Nice work John and Daniel… no more Popeye like forearms for these guys.
hey AMERIKAN the second pic you sent isnt working, it says its not a valid .jpg…it better not be a virus:p i thought you had a turbo? is that a b16, b17,or b18c ?
AMERIKAN, what are your “needs” that you mentioned earlier. less responsive steering isn’t a trade off I want for a lighter rack…I can see it being good for a drag setup, but since I do track events I just pulled the ps unit and ran a bypass on the line.
Thought about a manual rack conversion, I’m glad you posted this conversion.
if you want the feel of a manual rack but don’t like the idea of switching to a slower ratio EF rack, then you can do what the honda-tech people have done to their type-r’s.
the breather relieves pressure when steering yet still keeps enough power steering fluid in the rack to keep it lubricated.
personally, i like my power steering, & since it’s not really costing me too much in terms of weight penalty, i plan on keeping it. however, if i were to switch, i think this method would be more ideal.
Creepingdeath, I will be driving my car on the street and strip. If it is too unresponsive on the twisties, I will try a larger steering wheel. No modification has to stay permanent. Once I got this thought in my head, I had to see it to fruition.
It is a 91 rack. The actual swap did not take that long because my engine, suspension, etc. was not in the way. I am sure it would be a tad bit more difficult to do it on a complete car.
since, we’re on the subject does anyone know what size fitting/bolt i need to plug up the powersteering for a 92 teg? i’m planning on removing the whole unit but i need to know the size of the fitting for b18a and possibly the b16a(-6 AN, -8AN 10mm, 14mm etc).
Just how much more difficult is steering the car with the ps belt removed on the stock rack?
I’d like to gain a little power & wouldn’t mind heavier steering on the highway, but I do a lot of in-town driving too… I suppose I should just remove my belt & see for myself if I like it…
Any disadvantages to removing the belt tho? Supposing I do that and nothing else, it won’t hurt the car, right?
makes the steering harder since you are having to force/compress the fluid in the rack. Fluids are generally not compressible, but you get the idea, it takes more effort to move all that p/s fluid around. Another option is to loop the inlet and outlet lines on a normal p/s rack and add a breather to let the rack vent pressure.
