Im guessing this is the right board to put this under. I got 2 power window doors off my friends parts car for free, They have glass, tracks, motors, wiring, everything but door panels.
What I want to know is how do I get the motor and track and all that out of the door? I want to do the power window conv. on my teg and cant figure out how to get the motors and all out of the other doors.
Any help would be appreciated.
NVM delete thid thread, i got it.
since this wasn’t deleted, mind sharing with us how you did it?
double that.
Easy,
Take the stoppers and adjusters on the top of the door out
Unbolt the glass from the track and pull out of the door
Take out the 4 little bolts holding the motor to the door and pull it out of the bigger hole in the door
Relatively simple, the glass, tracks, stoppers and adjusters, and basically everything but the power motor is the same between the 2.
and how hard was it putting in your car? Was this worth the hassle VS swapping doors? If I did this I would want the motors in very good shape (I read that many windows don’t work very well anymore on these cars)
Its relatively simple, the power window motors for our cars have a larger bolt pattern but the auto door already have the holes to where they bolt up cut into them. As for the windows not working that great I had that problem, they were slow. So I ditched the whole idea and ran a 12 guage hot directly from the battery into the car through the firewall.
From there I ran a inline 20 amp fuse and Y’d off two 14 guage hots to each male door clip, the auto has some spare ports you can tap into.
Then on the corresponding female clips port I ran the power to the motors. And I ran a ground to the dorr metal itself.
As for the drivers side control of the passenger window i did the same as mentioned above, ran a hot to the clip for the drivers side door, ran it through the car behind the dash, and the the passenger door and wired it all in. If you get a helms of haynes manual it will have the wiring diagrams of the power window clips and motors. Relatively easy.
I ran the larger wire because the electrical flow is not as restricted. My windows were fast, but then the engine blew so the car just sits now. Anymore questions feel free to ask.
The reason I did not do the door swap was I didnt know if the factory manual window dash harness or main harness was wired to accept the power window door harness. So basically if the door was wired to power windows and the car wasnt what good does that do?
no, the harness isn’t wired for power windows. I have heard of some obtaining the harness, but you just bypassed that which could be a better option.
Heres what i have in mind to do. Put the power moters in from a gs into my rs than run this kit or a kit like it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ELI-4990-10-142&N=700+4294816099+115&autoview=sku
Save me the hassle of underdash wiring.
This on looks nicer http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ELI-4990-10-421&N=700+4294816099+115&autoview=sku
see where would you mount either of those switches though? if in either the doors you will still have to run underdash wires from door to door to the switch or on the center console running wires from motors to switch. So no matter where you put a switch you still have to have wires running to both motors to control them.
At first I had just the drivers side control switch hanging in the opening for the radio and both windows ran off that. Then I finally go around to buying the switch for the pass door and the handles that hold the switches. You do not have to buy the whole door panel because the manual window panels have marks on the back that you can cut out with a razor blade. The handle will go through them holes and it has little metal clips that screw onto the back of it to sandwich the panle between the 2.
That is if you do not mind having the holes for the window crank still on the door. I do ill tak pics and post them later.
Here are some pics. I know its dirty but its been sitting for 2 months with a blown bottom end. Spun rod bearings. Anyone got a bottom end for sale for cheap lmk.
So you just added in the switches w/handles onto the RS door panel. Interesting, how stable is that? I am afraid that would break off. And I would want to do something with the holes where the window handles went. PErfect place for a 1" tweet, but unfortunately I already have some installed so I couldn’t use that spot. Would have to do something with the holes…
I had a friend that did car installs and he bought an aftermarket kit and installed the window switches on the center dash (that goes around the radio and shift knob). Some BMW’s put their window switches there. I think that would be better than trying to rig aftermarket on the doors I don’t think that will look right. So I will either do that or use OEM stuff.
Im really stable actually. that is how the power window doors are. I close my door by pulling them and have no problem with it. As for the hole, you think it would hurt to add 2 more tweets? I dont think it would.
Alot of cars are like that, old mercedes, new libertys. I think its wierd though, because the passenger can control all of the windows as well and I dont really like that.
my thought was one switch on either side of the shit knob. So it would be out of the way to adjust the drivers window from passenger side. I could just hit them too if they try it :gunright:
I just did the conversion on my RS yesterday. Except I used the factory relay and fuses. I even used the factory door harness with a little modification. I used the connector from the RS harness and spliced it into the GS/GSR/power windowed car harness.
Once you have all the parts in the passenger side you have to splice the wires for the door sensor, and the speakers into the same ones as the old harness then you will have three wires left to splice (Blue/Green, Blue/Black, Blue/Yellow). I took 8 feet sections of wire for each and ran them through the door like they normally would, I also soldered all connections (don’t forget to label them if you are using all the same color wire). I just drilled a hole in the top unused part of the stock RS connector and ran them through there. Once in the car I ran them with existing wires to the drivers side. The Blue/Black one will stop at the fuse box but the other two need to go through the door to the master switch.
At this time I put all the parts for the driver side door in and spliced the RS connector onto the power window harness like on the other side. this time though you will have three wires coming off that go back inside and two that are coming in from the passenger side. Passenger side are cake, they are colored the same (Blue/Green, Blue/Yellow) but note they are the thick ones, not the thin ones. The other three are a solid black (ground) that runs inside and grounds where you see fit. Another Blue/Black that will meet up with the Blue/Black that came from the passenger side and connect to the fuse box. The other is a White/Yellow That will run inside to the fuse box. In the RS the spots for the fuses and relay are all there it just doesn’t have a harness coming off of the box. The two connections are on the back of the box toward the front of the car on the bottom. You may have to unbolt the fuse box to connect the wires. The thing I can’t remember is whether it was the top or bottom connection for the driver’s side and which was the one for the passenger side. But regardless you will have the White/Yellow connect to one and the two Blue/Black ones spliced together connect to the other one. If you don’t want to pay for the stock relay and 12V 30Amp relay will work, just make wire extensions coming off of it to hook up.
Doesn’t take too long to do especially if you don’t have greasy hands and drop the window on regulator that you are holding with the other hand and damn near chop off the tip of your right thumb like myself…
any pics of the installation? Thanks for the info
No, I didn’t take pics. It was something I had planned on doing since I bought the car over two years ago and I had the parts laying around since then. When I got the parts I had hoped it was as easy as in a 2nd gen Rx7 (connectors the same and interior harnesses are the same) but it wasn’t so I put it off for a while. I just followed the schematics in the factory service manual. I tried to use as many stock parts as possible, but switching the interior harness was way more than I wanted to get into.
Edit: Also I made sure I used a relay instead of going directly off the battery. The switches in the door were not made to take the same amperage as the window motors. Worst case scenario is they catch fire, but most likely they would just melt with extended use is not used with a relay.
Edit:Edit: Forgot to add if you buy the power window door panels make sure you get them, the switches, power regulators, door harnesses, relay and then the little metal piece that screws into the door that holds up the armrest since it is different from the non-power window one.
i am buying an RS door to replace my LS drivers side door that has a big crease in it…
after reading this thread it sounds pretty straight forward… transfer all my power stuff from my LS door to the RS door…correct?
Just do that and then hook it up.
quick question to you guys that have gone from manual to power, is it just as easy to go the opposite way? power to manual? i’m looking at weight reduction, but also wanted to know if you guys have any idea what the difference in weight between the two setups are… thanks!