Is it better to roughen up the old paint, and primer over that?
OR
Take down to original primer?
I only ask because my clear coat is peeling REAL bad everywhere. ive already started to wetsand the car starting with 320 grit. But is it worth it to get ALL of the clearcoat off,or can i smooth out the peeling part and roughen up the rest?
Ive sanded/primered and painted cars before, but not base coat/clearcoat systems. only laquer
this is the same right? I plan on doing all the prep and goin to the local paint shop to paint it. i still want the base coat clear coat
heres a stupid question, but can you color sand a base/clearcoat paintjob? or only one stage paint jobs?
just sand it down smooth, 320 is too coarse sandscratches might show when u paint it.
with base clear, just sand everything down till its smooth basically, u dont have to go into the base or primer, but if u sand through primer into bondo or metal it should be primed again.
colorsand… ive never done that b4 just cause base it sooo thin so ur likely cut through it soo quickly
320? You serious? Even finishing off with 400 grit shows minor scratches. I would finish off with 600grit. Depends how much base coat you want to spray to cover those visible scratches. 600grit is still enough for the base coat to “bite”
before you ask this question expand on what amount of work do you want to put in time/effort wise and how good do you want it to come out, then i can answer your question in detail:cool:
oh yeah the reason why u dont sand it down with 320 is cause 2 stage paint is piss thin so it doesnt fill up chips and scratches aswell as single stage does.
primer may stick after youve sanded your body/parts to 800 but it isnt advisiable - you are defeating the purpose of primer in the first place its is to promote adhesion , the finer you sand it to the less the high solids of the primers will be able to bite into the surface, if its sandable primer youre spraying you will want it to be even coarser than 400 , but if its just a sealer coat before base then 400-600 is ok depending on the color , paint dose not fill scratches and its nearly impossible for 400 grit to get out 100 grit scratches so you must stage sand it out to get a quality job–
if i were you i would block the entire car in stages 320/400/500 or 600 seal it and paint it , if you need to apply body fillers or sandable primers it shoud be sanded down with much coarser papers like 40/80/100 for filler and start at 150 for sandable primers
certain b/c colors and metallics show scratches more so than others and S.S paint will most likely cover 320 scratches but if ya want it to look like you put some effort into it, then prep the shit outta it!! – its all in the prep work.
yes you can color sand b/c coat paint jobs but its called wetsand , what your looking for is a dull even finish after sanding, no blemishes -depending on how much material you have to work with you may want to start will 1000 grit wet go 1500 then 2000 then polish , when you polish or w/sand always use the least abrasive first and see if you get your desired result if not go coarser
im no expert , learning everyday i only speak from my own experiences
hope it helps
i want gloss paint. i am very detail oriented. I am only starting with 320 and working finer. I havent been able to do anything. Work and no computer sucks
Why start so fine? When I repainted my car I started drysanding 200grit and went up to 400grit before sealing. You want to be able to pull out any scratches and blemishes, and if you happen to be wetsanding any unsealed bondo work, the bondo will rise and settle from the moisture. Heres mine on the way to the shop, and after to give you an idea. Also this was sprayed with a ppg two stage.
