sometimes when im driving i feel a loss of power (my foots on gas but then the car isn’t acceleration) for like probably 2-3 seconds then it gets backs to normal. and when im on 1st gear it does it then jumps. HELP wtf could it be.
Search the forum many people have had this problem. Common causes are spark plugs, wires, cap or rotor, throttle position sensor, and oxygen sensor.
Check your cap and rotor…then check your plugs n cables… Just like the guy above says u will find many threads on this topic…most likely those 4 things if u havent done a tune up in a while
I had the same issue ans have replace the fuel filter, entire disstributore and internals, tps, entire engine swap, ecu and engine harness and i still have it happen every now and then. Only thing left is the fuel pump.
da6xsi06, Same catalytic converter the whole time?
OP, one of the things mentioned by 90da9teg is probably the culprit, but it could also be the very beginning of your igniter going out. If it is your igniter, it will get a lot worse before it goes out so just live with it until you can confirm; it is kind of an expensive part.
wood I know this is late but oh well.
no my ecu is a B16a pw0 chipped and tuned for the itr swap so it doesn’t run with a oxygen sensor and I run a test pipe.
thing is I had the same issue before the swap with my stock engine and setup.
I figured it would of fixed itself after the swap but it only minimized the times it happen.
here is a link to a old posted mine, I never did find or fix the bogging.
my car was stolen and everything was stripped. now I’m back with a ls.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?206477-RPM-s-drop-while-on-highway-but-doesnt-shut-off&highlight=power+loss
o2 sensor
mine does this like 2-3 times a week, only in 1st gear usually sometimes 2nd…and i have new distributor and plugs, so i guess its time to change the wires and o2 sensor lol
Mine would do something like this when I would take off from a red light, as soon as i hit about 2500 it would bog like it shut off on me then suddenly come back to life at like 3k and be fine. It would do this right about the time the car hit warm up temperature at the same red light everyday. Replaced o2 on the manifold and it has not happened again.
strange because when I had my ls the cat was gutted and so the o2 sensor wasn’t reading anything, it would happen every other day.
then after my swap I needed a chrome chipped ecu and I ran the test pipe so I didn’t need the o2 sensor, it was supposedly tuned without the o2 required. not sure if of all the specs programmed in my chip but that’s what i.e.as told by my tuner.
so I’m confused since how did i.still have that bogging issue if my o2 sensor was not needed or deleted from the chipped ecu.
can anyone verify that you still need the o2 on even when obd0 and chipped?
you guys might be right. I’ve always searched and never even thought it could be the o2.
Both of the 02 sensors are before the cat, so a gutted or removed cat, or even having a test pipe should make no difference in this situation. Even if your tuner deleted one o2, which would be the one right before the cat I assume…you still have the manifold sensor with a job to do. I replaced the manifold one when I was having the bogging issue. After the difference replacing one made, I should probably pull out the other one now that i think about it.
Jea I have the same problem @br4ndonsvicious mine does it at start up an goes away … Wen I’m driving it losses power for 2-3 seconds. N gain power again happens once a sweet but before I changed the rotor and cap n plugs it did it plenty of times n the only thing I haven’t changed is the wires
mine would happen only on the high way, if I.stayed steady at 3k rpms the engine would bog down to idle. all while my foot was still on the.gas.i would have to drop it into 4th and rev it past 7k to get it out of idle.
I believe you tps or map sensor can also cause the loss of power while pressing the gas. Might wanna replace that.