Problem on full throttle

I currently have a 1990 integra and its a good car. So I was returning home and while driving down the road the car started feeling like it was going to stall. It was making popping sounds from the exhaust. So i pull over and now the CEL light is on. The car idles fine but when i gave it too much gas it starts feeling like its going to stall but doesnt. When i floor the pedal the car just starts making the popping sound kind of like a idling harley (best i can describe sorry.) and the rpm wont increase just sits and bounces but still wont stall.

I replaced the fuel filter and the car would start but idle very low (100-200 rpm) and now the car wont start at all. The car will crank and crank but wont turn over. It wants to. The car has a good spark (white/blue) too. No codes are being thrown now.

check ur TPS sensor, try to find one cheap and switch it out to see if that works. if that doesnt work then try to find a ecu to switch out and see if it cures it

The TPS is in the throttle body?

check to see too if u got good fuel pressure, its a good investment to have around a fuel pressure gauge and is easy to understand

correct

Alright ill try and change the TPS. Its just weird that the car ran fine and then just out of the blue started having problems.

scan it for the code it had?

similar thing happened to me, ended up being the cat got broken up and clogged the exhaust

I had symptoms like that a while ago. wound up being the coil. Igniter followed a few months later and then the distributor. (bearing squeal)

yeah its a long proccess my g2 buddy but without being there in person,trouble shooting this way leaves a bigger window open but we will get u tru the process. my all motor teg i got did that over the ecu going bad try whats been suggested so far and tell us how it goes the TPS is located on the trottle body but u find it when u look in back by the fire wall on the trottle body

The car isnt throwing any more codes but when the problem first started it was the Code 4 then that left then after was a Code 8. Now the ECU isnt throwing anymore codes. Ill try changing the TPS first and then the distributor next. Fuel filters been changed, distributor rotor and cap.

EDIT:
Removed cat and it still having starting problems.

if you got a 4 and an 8, I would say it is the distributor or something related to it. TDC, Crank angle and #1 cyl sensors are there. Check all your wires and connections to the distributor. Lastly, since you say there is a nice spark, you might want to pull the valve cover and check your cam gears to see if you jumped timing.

How would i know if i jumped timing?

The car isnt throwing any more codes but when the problem first started it was the Code 4 then that left then after was a Code 8. Now the ECU isnt throwing anymore codes. Ill try changing the TPS first and then the distributor next. Fuel filters been changed, distributor rotor and cap.
do u still have trouble? the quickest way is to pull the guard off ur timing belt to expose the cam gears and then locate the dash mark on each off them and see if they mock eachothers position

also, when checking spark, remember that there may be spark, but it has to be consistent and not erratic. if it seems to be good and consistent, i’d check that you are indeed getting fuel. crack the line at the rail and turn the key to the on position for a second. you should see fuel spraying from the line. if that checks out, i’d do a compression test. if timing is out, it should show in the results of the test. that way the valve cover doesn’t need to be pulled. when read correctly, the test can also reveal what type of issue you’re having and why compression may be low.
that pretty much covers the basics of what your engine needs to run.
-ignition
-fuel
-compression

what you really want to do here is try and avoid “shotgunning”. this can be difficult seeing as how our vehicles are not as electronically advanced as newer ones and do not communicate as well. pinpointing the problem will save you time, money and the headaches. it’ll give you a better understanding of your vehicle as well.
a 15$ compression tester is one of the most basic tools you can own to which gives you a great insight on your engines condition. it’s cheap, fast and easy to use. and when read correctly, offers a plethora of information

Well i changed the TPS sensor and the vehicle isnt starting still. Im gonna move to the distributor next because when checking the spark i had it resting on the valve cover ground bolt and it wasnt putting out a constant spark more like “random spark wait wait wait random spark” Fuel is good because it run constant through the lines.

in my opinion the most common problem related to this issue is distributor-related. i had a similar issue and replaced my ignitor and everything was fine after that.