problems after auto to manual =[

Did a '92 trans swap with '92 manual trans…

  1. The idle bounces even when the car warms up. I don’t know where to put that extra vacuum line where the automatic went. Maybe this is the problem. I took out the radiator and fluids - this could be also one too?

  2. Car bogs when reaching higher rpm’s on each gear. I’m thinking its the clutch cable. Would I need to make it really really tight if I have a stage 1 clutch kit (since it has more clamping force)?

  3. My check engine light doesn’t even go on, and I’m running the Automatic ECU that came with the car.

For the bogging problem - it bogs even when parking into garage(also forgot to mention also makes a ticking sound), I only shimmed the transmission mount exactly once inch. If I shim it a little more, will this solve the problem? I’m thinking it’s the CV joints ticking since the engine is 1/4 inch misaligned - I double checked the axles if they went in snugly into the hub and transmission. Someone please help.:bawl:

the problem with the bouncing idle may be you throtle position sensor.

what do you mean it bogs at high rpms? why do you think it would be the clutch cable? i need more info to help you.

also if you have a timing gun you should check that and try setting it at about 16-17 degrees.

Oops…when I said bogging, I meant the car vibrates as if a clutch is slipping. When I go to higher rpms, it does that. Also my friend noticed that as I engage in the first gear, my right tire vibrates a lot.

is there anything that could help me

i am about to do this i have everything i think i need are there any words of wisdom ???

Check all your bushings and get an alignment. Most tire hop at the track and problems on the road come from just poor alignment. What do you mean by shimming the transmission? I have a B16a1 that originally had a automagic bolted to it. I just bolted my flywheel and tranny right on. Only a couple vacuum issues, but some simple plugs fixed that. I also suffer from bouncing idle, but only when the motor is cold.

bouning idle should be

the bouncing idle can be easily fixed by removeing, i think its the FIT or IACV valve and tietening the white screw type bolt on the inside its the one directly underneath the throttle body it is held on by 3 bolts and 2 water lines it took me about 15 minutes for me to do it after i removed my intake

90 gs auto-manual under construction

auto swap complete

i finished my swap 02-22-03
i love the standard
i have another post on here explaining what is required to do this
if you need some advice give me a call

if i don’t answer leave a message i will call you back