Been a long time G2IC, but I need some help. I’ve searched hi and low for a new proportioning valve for my 93 LS. ZERO luck. Acura discontinued the part and there is no aftermarket support for it. I tried Auto Zone, O’reily, NAPA, and Carquest. I don’t want a used one or go digging at the junk yards for it to start leaking in a month or just find they are all leaking.
So, is there a proportioning valve for a different car that would be a direct fit? I know the Integra valve is a 4040. If there is one from a different car that will bolt up, what will happen if that ratio changes?
There are lots of guys who sell these second hand, and you can go to a junk yard. I bought a MINT one from someone on Honda-Tech a couple years back for $40 shipped. Not sure if prices have changed, but I’d expect the price to be in the $20-$40 range.
No prob, superls92. In my research, I found that after a 97 DC non-abs, the part number changed for the proportioning valve and in the picture on the Acura parts site, the valve changed how the lines go in and out.
I’ll post up a follow up when I get the parts from Acura and install.
93 Integra brake proportioning valve replacement with 94-97 (non-ABS) valve
Parts came in and changed it out last night!
So, this is a proportioning valve from a 94-97 Integra non-ABS. Part number- 46210-ST7-003. I got it new from www.oemacuraparts.com for $153.19. I went new, because I want it to last! :ohyeah:
As you can see, it has been leaking for quite some time. :argh: :vomit:
Valves side by side. The 93 has a 2 bolt bracket and the 94-97 has a 3 bolt bracket. Brackets are completely different, but valve is the same.
The two bolts holding the valve together for each one is a security torx T30 (pic below). I thought I would take the bolts out and just swap the bracket.:hmm: STOP! :hyper:There is a heafty spring inside that will separate the two parts. Luckily, I took the old one apart first to discover this. Do at your own risk, but I think the following might be doable.:think: If you have a vise or c-clamp, the two halves could be held together while the bolts are out and swapping the bracket.
So, I drilled this out before I learned that the contour of the bracket at the body and the bolt holes sit lower in the bracket.:bang: Which was a pain, because my drill battery died and isn’t a quick charge. My recommendation if you don’t swap the brackets is to just drill out the spot welds to remove the vertical piece of the bracket and not worry about bolting in the valve. Removing that piece will create some clearance so the unbolted valve won’t rattle against the body.
Damn that looks SO much better! :dance::excite::rockon:
I hope this helps! If you have any questions, let me know.
Iam having the same problem got one from the junk yard it leaks also, and iam guessing when its bad its warping my rotors because of the pressure not being equal.
My recommendation if you don’t swap the brackets is to just drill out the spot welds to remove the vertical piece of the bracket and not worry about bolting in the valve. Removing that piece will create some clearance so the unbolted valve won’t rattle against the body.
:excite::rockon:
