well i know what i’ve heard about him but i never saw the show and i’m on dialup so theres no way i’m going to dl it. maybe i’ll see the show sometime on tv. anyway to eugene- i never meant that there was much wrong with ls/vtec, i just found the article and figured it was worth a read since you see all these kids my age buying LS’s and then just thinking they can throw a vtec head on it and call it a day. hell thats what some guys were telling me to do and then argued when i told em it wouldn’t work. what i’ve been wanting to do (obviously not now but in a long time from now) is the b20/itr but unless i had some serious cash i know it would be completely unreliable. but hey, a girl can dream :drool:
Eugene, welcome to our home! It great to have another engine guru like yourself. If anyone wants to watch the show, I have the whole thing on cd in DirecTv quality (mpeg format), with all the commercials edited out. Let me know, and we will work out how to get it. 
white92gsr@g2power.net
Sally, give me a call if you ever get the time 
The only flaw I see in that article is a few options in LS/VTEC configurations not listed/mentioned.
The build that I think should have been mentioned is the B20 block/b17a crank/VTEC head setup since the writer stressed R/S sooo much. If you take a B20 block, throw a B17a crank that has had the main bearing journals turned down to B20 size, shot-peened rods, and balanced good; you have yourself a VERY reliable LS/VTEC. I know this setup is costly, but it’s worth it if your serious in making BIG all-motor power.
The other builds that I think are ignored consist of using aftermarket cranks, rods (stock & different lengths), pistons (stock & different wrist-pin locations), sleeving blocks, complete NEW blocks, and many other options. Yes, I know these options are very,very,very costly, but I’m just mentioning anything I can think of.
Feel free to correct me on anything that I have stated incorrectly.
First, you don’t have to machine or turn the main journals in a B20 block to fit a B17 crank. I know this because I have a B17 block w/ a LS/B20 crank and rods. Second, putting a B17 crank in a B20 block not only is a waste of time, but also a waste of money. I know this because like I said, I have a B17 block. A B17 doesn’t make much more power then a B16 would. But lucky for all you horse power enthusiests out there, we at PRO STREET IMPORT have a kit that fits LS/B20 and GSR cranks w/o using a deck plate into a B16 or B17 block making it either a 1.8L, 1.9L, 2.0L or 2.1L. If you want to make BIG ALL MOTOR horse power, the B17 crank isn’t going to cut it. You’re going to have to go w/ at least a GSR or LS/B20 crank. That’s why we offer this kit. We’ve done this set up on a few cars, including our own and found that 220 whp w/ 155 lbs of tq was the average amount of horse power they’ve made on a DYNO JET. Keep in mind all these motors made this power through the muffler on 91 octane 11:5 comp. This set up is nice because you pop your hood to any one and all they see is B16A stamped on the block and they’re none the wiser to what’s inside.
How much does a kit like that cost?
The 1.8L, 1.9L, B16A & B17A stroker kits run $1800.Which includes 11:5comp. pistons GSR or LS/B20 crank new TYPE’R’ oil pump, water pump, oil pan,oil pick up, new TYPE’R’ main & rod bearings everything balanced & blueprinted, micro polished crank & all new gaskets out right w/ no core.
The 2.0L, 2.1L B16A & B17A stroker kits run $2800.Which includes 85mm or 86mm 11:5 comp. pistons GSR or LS/B20 RS MACHINE sleeves, new TYPE’R’ oil pump, water pump, oil pan, oil pick up, new TYPE’R’ main & rod bearings, everything balanced & blueprinted, micro polished crank & all new gaskets out right w/ no core.
but what about the lack of oil squirters on the b18a/b & b20b/z blocks. couldnt that create fatigue/failure in pistons & rods?
eugene was just on tv again. youre a star baby, yeah!
Fatigue/failure in pistons & rods is a problem that we were concerned about years ago when we first started researching the LS VTEC motors. But we found by increasing oil pressure and notching the rods, enough oil was able to find its way up to the rist pins therefore decreasing the risk of piston & rod fatigue/failure.
There has been set ups in B18C and H22A blocks that we’ve had to completly eliminate the oil squirters in order to fit the new crankshafts and have had no problems with on both all motor and turbo applications.
So basically, swap out the Non-Vtec oil pump, with the Vtec version, and those notches…
this same article was talked about HERE almost one year ago. The link to it no longer goes through from the old thread regarding this, but i am positive it is referring to this same article. And I still have the same problems with this method of thinking now as I did then.
To sum it up again, the effects of having an ls/vtec motor that he is referring to increase exponentially at very high rpm’s. Most honda motor setups, ls/vtec or not, are not built to make power above 8000-8200 rpm. Those that are is a case where I would not reccomend ls/vtec. Those that are not setup for this use, which again is what most people setup and can afford to build and maintain, do not undergo nearly as many issues as what this article mentions.
Basically, there is no need to get ready for the Third Reich when Gomer Pile is gonna come at ya----maybe some of you will get my analogy 
Originally posted by prostreetimport
[B]Fatigue/failure in pistons & rods is a problem that we were concerned about years ago when we first started researching the LS VTEC motors. But we found by increasing oil pressure and notching the rods, enough oil was able to find its way up to the rist pins therefore decreasing the risk of piston & rod fatigue/failure.
There has been set ups in B18C and H22A blocks that we’ve had to completly eliminate the oil squirters in order to fit the new crankshafts and have had no problems with on both all motor and turbo applications. [/B]
can you further describe ‘notching the rods’. to my knowledge notching was only needed when the stroke was to long and the rods would hit the bottom of the cyl wall.