i just got a b18c spec R. how do jun type 1,2,3 act at idle, and how does it feel at top end? also does anyone know how is the driveability?
JUN III Cams idle great, basically stock. midrange isn’t really that impressive on the JUN IIIs, but the top end is amazing. from 6000rpm all the way to 9000rpm they pull like there is no tomorrow. You will need to run these cams with JUN valve springs and it’s a good idea to run some titanium retainers. Here’s a couple of fun things for you to check out.
Videos of my friends JUN III powered ITR…
http://www.neek.net/videos/MOV00161.MPG
http://www.neek.net/videos/MOV00171.MPG
http://www.neek.net/videos/3rd%20gear.mpg
And a couple pics of a JUN III Install…


Let me know if you have any questions.
hey is the only difference between the b18c5 and the b18c spec R the c/r? so is everything else the same?
Yup…11:1 compression instead of 10.6:1. Much better for JUN III cams. My friend had a Mugen head gasket though, so he was running 11:1.
MORE VIDS!!!
Dan you gotta post more cool vids like that!!
I love cool little homemade clips like that!
Did you send any letters to the bungholes at Texaco yet?
i would have to agree with dan. my friend steve who used to run a spoon motor, now has a JUN motor with stage 3s. VTEC x-over is impressive with them:p
Originally posted by G2guru
[B]JUN III Cams idle great, basically stock. midrange isn’t really that impressive on the JUN IIIs, but the top end is amazing. from 6000rpm all the way to 9000rpm they pull like there is no tomorrow. You will need to run these cams with JUN valve springs and it’s a good idea to run some titanium retainers. Here’s a couple of fun things for you to check out.
Videos of my friends JUN III powered ITR…
http://www.neek.net/videos/MOV00161.MPG
http://www.neek.net/videos/MOV00171.MPG
http://www.neek.net/videos/3rd%20gear.mpg
And a couple pics of a JUN III Install…
Let me know if you have any questions. [/B]
mind comparing these cams to ITR’s Dan since i believe you have experience with both? Also the price difference is what, about 3-400 i believe?
![]()
JUN III compared to ITR cams…there is no comarison. The JUN IIIs are stronger all the way across the board, and like I said, top end it worlds better. It will transform the car. Worth the extra money in my opinion. However, JUN III cams are extremely picky about ECU programs. My friend initially had a Mugen ITR ECU and the JUNs felt “okay”. Then we put in the JUN ECU and MY GOD…what a difference. So if you get the JUN cams, get a JUN program…they are out there.
does jun make a ecu for non obd cars?..if not would converting to obd 1 make it easier?
Originally posted by Jrock
does jun make a ecu for non obd cars?..if not would converting to obd 1 make it easier?
don’t convert to obd1 !!! i’m in the process of doing that right now (so i can get the BAR Sticker for my b17a swap) and let me tell you… its a pain in the ass. I’m not even sure the reality of it, i’m not even done pulling the harness from my parts car yet.
Have you thought about getting an obd-0 to obd-1 jumper harness? Locash racing sells them.
thank god for locash…now i think im able to go on with planning my swap…are their any other companies that make harness jumpers?..wonder if it is a difficult process to do with the locash kit…
I know Kenji on honda-tech can build you one. All you have to do is plug it in and wire the neccesary sensors with either of them.
Originally posted by itec311
I know Kenji on honda-tech can build you one. All you have to do is plug it in and wire the neccesary sensors with either of them.
do you guys know if these harnesses allow you to run the obd1 diagnostics? i need mine to pass the smog ref inspection. and to do that they need to be able to hook the car up their diagnostic machines and check it out just like it was an obd1 car.
i’m getting desperate… because pulling the obd1 harness is the hardest thing i’ve ever done, the car is pretty much completely stripped up front and i still can’t get it out. I thik i’m gonna have to completely remove the brake booster and steering column (thats in addition to everything else under the dash that i’ve already removed).
tia.
wiring converter harness
So I’ve done a lot of research on this subject of obd0-obd1 converter harness and have come up with this:
-
I’m not sure whether the harness is legal for the CARB sticker or not.
-
What I am sure of with the harness is that you’ll run:
-OBD1 or OBD2 Bseries Distributor
-OBD1 Ecu
-OBD1 4 wire O2 sensor
Optional:
-OBD1 injectorsBasically, all the OBD1 electronics…ECU, Distributor,
injectors, O2 sensor, etc. -
I have come across a couple of different people who build this converter harness.
-One guy is charging $150+shipping for the harness, and he
makes them himself. He says he has sold over 100 of them
and guarantees them to work. I haven’t contacted him in a
while, but I also heard that he once sold the converter
harness for $80-$90 in a group buy.-that Kenji guy (mentioned previously)
-Locash racing (mentioned previously)
-prodigyworks.com once mentioned that they were eventually
going to make this product. I called them about it once a long
time ago and they said they were still R&D the product, but
that it should be out in a couple months. However, I just
checked their website and they don’t have it in the products
section so I don’t know. Maybe you might call them
personally and ask.
I’m still kicking around the idea about swapping in a b18c1, but am worried about CARB also. If you need the contact info for the first guy who builds harnesses, it’s turbo_ef@yahoo.com. I’d also be interested in finding out if you use the harness, and if you pass and get the CARB sticker using the converter harness. Anyways, good luck and keep me posted. Sorry if this is off the original topic.
Re: wiring converter harness
Originally posted by kennshin24
[B]So I’ve done a lot of research on this subject of obd0-obd1 converter harness and have come up with this:
-
I’m not sure whether the harness is legal for the CARB sticker or not.
-
What I am sure of with the harness is that you’ll run:
-OBD1 or OBD2 Bseries Distributor
-OBD1 Ecu
-OBD1 4 wire O2 sensor
Optional:
-OBD1 injectorsBasically, all the OBD1 electronics…ECU, Distributor,
injectors, O2 sensor, etc. -
I have come across a couple of different people who build this converter harness.
-One guy is charging $150+shipping for the harness, and he
makes them himself. He says he has sold over 100 of them
and guarantees them to work. I haven’t contacted him in a
while, but I also heard that he once sold the converter
harness for $80-$90 in a group buy.-that Kenji guy (mentioned previously)
-Locash racing (mentioned previously)
-prodigyworks.com once mentioned that they were eventually
going to make this product. I called them about it once a long
time ago and they said they were still R&D the product, but
that it should be out in a couple months. However, I just
checked their website and they don’t have it in the products
section so I don’t know. Maybe you might call them
personally and ask.
I’m still kicking around the idea about swapping in a b18c1, but am worried about CARB also. If you need the contact info for the first guy who builds harnesses, it’s turbo_ef@yahoo.com. I’d also be interested in finding out if you use the harness, and if you pass and get the CARB sticker using the converter harness. Anyways, good luck and keep me posted. Sorry if this is off the original topic. [/B]
thanks for the info dude! i’m glad to hear that you use all the obd1 parts, because i’m sure most smog refs will at least glance at plug color and that sort of thing. I doubt its legal… but if you can fool them… Basically if you are able to hook the car up to the diagnostic machines and get all the correct readings then i’m sure it would work. i really doubt they’d actually check past that. truth is they may not even check to see if you’re running obd1–but who wants to risk it?
I would really shy away from the b18c1 swap. I’d say you’re about 50-50 on that. If you get a smog ref who doesn’t know much or doesn’t care about much except for that its a legit motor and it runs clean then you would most likely be fine. But if you get a guy whose a stickler for detail he’ll fail you. For one you have to run a hydro tranny. Plus there are extra sensors and things that you may have to swap over that wouldn’t quite work right (believe it or not there is something about the fuel tank that may make it necessary to swap that!!! --not likely they will check, but do you want to risk it?).
i’m gonna email that guy you said makes them for $150 and see what he has to say.
thanks again!
does low cash have a web site? or does any one know their number and where they are located?
they are located in Phoenix, Az.
thanks
i’ve been talking with jason (the guy whose email address you mentioned above). we’re unsure yet whether the harness is going to work or not to pass the smog ref, but i’m gonna keep emailing him and we’re trying to figure it out. I might just buy the harness either way, i’m beginning to think i’m sort of in a pinch.
not sure how many of you guys care about the obd0 to obd1 stuff… but i’m gonna keep ya posted anyway ![]()