First off, I know this has been reviewed and discussed before all over the web.
But not correctly and it’s not as accurate, especially for our DA’s
This job seems intimidating by what people say about it (time consuming, pain in the ass, ect.)
If theirs anyone out their who can really put a legit “write-up” on how to remove the rack and pinion (with pics if possible) please help me out.
Im going to change it out for a manual ef rack.
I’ve done it. It wasn’t really that difficult. I used the kit from lowandslowda9(?)/widebodycivic. Are you going to be using the conversion kit?
Yes. I heard it was really good.
So how exactly did you do it all?
It’s not difficult to remove, you remove the outter tie rods, disconnect all the lines running to rack on the driver side (use something to catch fluid, and there will be a lot), then unbolt the rack. It’s really self explanatory once you get under the car.
There is plenty of information on the manual rack swap on here. More than enough to get it done. The biggest issue which is not that bad, is getting the spacing correct for the manual rack. Like said above, someone makes conversion kits, which you really don’t need if you are mechanically inclinded at all.
Maybe someone can post the links, but just search “manual rack conversion” you should come across all option available.
ok thanks alot.
ill keep you updated.
Once you get all the PS stuff removed, there is a total of 5 bolts holding the manual rack in place…not counting the tie rods. 4 bolts on the bottom of the rack and one bolt inside that connects to the steering column. BTW, you will need to either used your old DA inner and outer tie rods or purchase new ones (just buy new ones ).
My manual rack…
Drivers side:
Passengers side:
Is that the kit from the guy who sells it on this forum?
Correct…
he doesn’t sell them any more does he?
Not sure, you are going to have to check his thread and maybe contact him. If not, there is a way to do it without the kit but I can’t help you there.
As far as I know, you just can use the stock bushing from the ef rack and then wrap the da bushing around that. You will still need to shim the back side of the rack to get the correct angle so that it doesn’t bind when turning left and right. That part might be a little trial and error, but the guy that makes the bushing kits might be able to tell you how much shim is needed. I want to say its like 5mm or something…
Exactly which model ef civic/crx did the manual rack come in?
Pretty sure anything EF…89-91 civics/crx/ maybe wagons? I dunno about that one.
Your overall turning radius will suffer with the manual rack by a 1/2 turn of the wheel (lock to lock with a NON-si rack), UNLESS, you can find a rack from a SI model, the turning radius will only suffer by a 1/4 turn in that case. That’s as close as you will get to the DA turning radius with an EF rack without getting quick ratio guts.
DA power racks have less turns lock to lock than the manual racks.
I’m wondring if u did this… How did it work out for u, I gotta to swap out my rack my boots r ripped up n it making a loud popping sound when I turn right n it squeaks I thought it was my brakes but I seen it when I got under it… I’m tryn to get this all down. I need a ef/crx si rack? Wit da tie rod ends inner and outter? Wat mods have to be done to get the ef rack to line up and fit correctly?