Alright so…I noticed today that when driving, I hit my brakes my radio will turn off, then right back on again, same spot in the song and everything. It also happens if I turn my headlights on. I took a video of it, first time it goes off is brakes. then it comes back on and I turn my lights on.
Those are the only 2 things I have been able to find that will make this happen. I really have no idea where to start with this besides pulling my deck out. It seems to happen when under load, like if I put the car in neutral and let the RPMs drop, then hit my brakes, the radio might just cut out for a spit second but stay on.
Have you checked the negative terminal on your battery? It can become corroded and cause those symptoms. Happened to me. Just take off the terminal and sand or scrape off any residue or build up. My radio would cut out for a second and my lights would flicker when my brakes were applied.
I also noticed I seem to be getting more of a electrical stumble that usual when I turn the headlights on while the car is running. This morning turning my headlights on would not cause the radio issue like yesterday, but the brakes still do. Could a alternator cause any of this? I have never replaced it myself or any alternator for that fact, so who knows how old it is.
I believe I wired in with the factory harness, it’s been so long I’m not sure now. I’ve also had the same deck in for over 2 years now and haven’t messed with anything electrical in just as long.
I did notice that my terminals were a pretty corroded the other day. I will give this a try and see what happens. Thanks.
It is, as mentioned, most likely a grounding problem.
FYI, when a circuit, [brake/headlights in your case] have an effect on another circuit, [radio in your case] it is almost always a grounding issue, I would start by redoing your main grounds, [batt. cable clamp and post, batt. to chassis ground, chassis to engine ground], DO NOT just eyeball the connections, disconnect/clean/reconnect. 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2279833]It is, as mentioned, most likely a grounding problem.
FYI, when a circuit, [brake/headlights in your case] have an effect on another circuit, [radio in your case] it is almost always a grounding issue, I would start by redoing your main grounds, [batt. cable clamp and post, batt. to chassis ground, chassis to engine ground], DO NOT just eyeball the connections, disconnect/clean/reconnect. 94[/QUOTE]
Got it, I have been wanting to do that recently anyways. I’ll update whenever I get to it. Thanks for the help.
If there is nothing wrong with the ground cable, [one cable for batt. to chassis/chassis to engine] replacing it will do nothing but cost you $$$, and unless you have upgraded the cars alt. the stock ground cable is more then enough.
With that said, you sure can’t hurt anything by upgrading the grounds, you just don’t gain anything.
Start by cleaning the connections of you existing grounds, starting with the main grounds, then the next most important grounds ar the ones on the thermostat housing, [a common grounding problem on older Honda/Acura] after those it is the dash harness grounds, the ones on the lower part of drivers A pillar, next to fuse box. 94
so I was having this issue also… hit brakes lights would dim or flicker… radio would shut off and turn back on… antenna would retract then extend… all when I hit the brakes.
for me the issue turned out to be the negative battery cable clamp… i have no idea why changing it made such a dramatic difference, but it did… aside from the brake issue mentioned in this post I would infrequently also have an issue where I’d turn the car over and it would act like the starter solenoid just fried. I’d pop the cable off put it back on and voila car would be fine…
Last time I had an issue the brakes were doing the shut stuff off thing, as I got to a buddies house it acted like the alternator had just died as the car sputtered to a halt. When emergency roadside showed up the guy wanted to jump the battery to see of we could start the car to load it on the flatbed… when he touched the negative terminal with the jumper pack it shot some sparks then the lights, stereo etc all came back on. he found a spare negative clamp in the tow truck and swapped it out.
After changing out the clamp… I have had ZERO issues… and believe me I was in the same mental state you were in WTF land… I suggest you check the negative battery cable. clean all contacts and possibly replace the clamp on it…
Ground problems are notorious for being intermittent, they are effected by humility and temperature, both ambient temperature and engine bay temperatures and not necessarily just high or low temperatures, EG; will work fine below 10 degrees C and above 15 degrees C but is intermittent between the two and never works above 20 degrees C, it can be very random, grounds can also work fine for weeks and then go bad for weeks and then start working again.
Redo the main grounds, [remove/clean/reconnect] if for no other reason then to eliminate them as the problem, it also can’t hurt to redo 20 year old grounds. 94
I went ahead and finally got around to cleaning all the grounds up. The only one I didn’t get to was the tranny one where it bolts in under the battery tray. I cleaned them up at the tranny, thermostat housing, and up front. Are there any I am missing? I am now realizing I didnt think to clean the side of the negative battery cable that goes to the chassis. Funk!
I had this problem show up again briefly yesterday (like a week after doing the grounds). So i have no idea why it could be happening. I will replace my terminals once I get money coming in again. I did clean up the existing ones while I was at it too with terminal cleaner.
I did clean the tranny one, I didn’t realize it wrapped up to the battery. so i went and cleaned up my terminals really good with cleaner and a wire wheel, then sprayed terminal protector on them. Now I don’t get that little surge when you push the brake while stopped, so that’s good. New terminals next.
Does adding an extra ground really accomplish anything? Where would be a good place if so?