Random fender bolt question.. Bolt behind door.

Ok, my question is, on our 90-93 integras, the bottom fender bolt (not the one that mounts under the side of the car) but the one that you can only see a little above the bottom of the car, behind the door when you open the door fully. How is it you remove that bolt, without scratching the door? When the door ALL the way open, and i mean maxed out opened i still scratched the door up before i got my car painted, so i wasnt worried about it.

Do i have to take the door checker pin out and swing the door open further or something like that? or is there a trick to it?

Thanks, retarded question I know, but i dont want to have to remove my fender sometime after my car is ffreshly painted and screw it up. :rockon:

i cant think of it right now, but i’ve done it with out scratching, ill take a look tomorrow and get back at you. Or you could put some tape on your wrench for a cushion so its not metal on metal/paint :slight_smile:

hmmm, i used a 1/4" ratchet and an extension :shrug: didnt scratch the door.

both of the previous 2 guys have methods that work. u could use the taped wrench/tools method to protect ur paint with whichever method/tool u use.

there’s a right tool for almost every job. and if there isn’t a right tool, then it means u haven’t made one yet.

[QUOTE=Squeezethis;2039875]both of the previous 2 guys have methods that work. u could use the taped wrench/tools method to protect ur paint with whichever method/tool u use.

there’s a right tool for almost every job. and if there isn’t a right tool, then it means u haven’t made one yet.[/QUOTE]

Arr… Hmm well i dont have my car back yet to look at it, but i think removing the door checker pin might give a little added room. The problem I have, is that dumbass stock washer, is always to wide to fit back in between the fender and the edge of the door to line up with the hole correctly, if you get what im saying. Think im gonna go buy a allen headed bolt for that particular placing so i can use a long allen wrench and use the unbended end of it to tighten, and use a smaller washer on the bolt. Thatll prevent most anything i would assume.

Or can you even buy a allen head bolt with that threading

Edit: Looked up the size on acuraoemparts.com and its 6x16mm and did some searching

http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=326595&showprevnext=1

That would be the same stuff right? If so i think i might order a few to replace those bolts so ill never have to worry about it, im gonna be over protective when i get my car back from paint thats why im even posting this lol

Or also, since these are flat, may work out better

http://cometkartsales.com/store/chassis/cpa/metricbolts.htm

The first one in the list, the 6x12 ones, im sure 4 mm of length wouldnt effect it at all, would make it easier actually i would think.

Hm, the last ones linked from cometkartsales,
http://cometkartsales.com/store/wildkart/images/wkconwasher.jpg

Those, in silver or black along with the flat allen headed bolts would actually look nice for the 3 top ones inside the engine bay, may order 18 of the allens and 6 of the washers and replace them all llool $22 + shipping for 6 of the washers, and 18 of the allen bolts.

those are basically countersunk washers, same crap that passwordjdm is selling to “spruce up” the engine bay a lil. but regarding the idea u are trying to do… i suggest u do it the right way, and get the right bolts. cuz they do have to be tight enough that they won’t rattle loose. and i dunno if u can get it that tight with an allen wrench, maybe with a t handle allen, but yea. if u did it the right way u wouldn’t need to worry about all that, cuz its kind of hidden.

Try using a small 10mm wrench while the door is opened enough to get your fingers in… That seems like the absolute logical way to do that… Takes a while to get, but it works like a charm. :up:

3m green masking tape ftw… use it to protect where you might expect the bolt to do damage.

I used just a regular socket with an extension… and did just fine.