Initially, I got a typical low-battery response when I turned the key: short weak crank, then no crank, just clicking upon key turn. Then I heard a long (more than one minute) rear driver-side rear clicking with key out of ignition.
I assume that the clicking is the fuel pump.
Where should I look for a short?
Please help with testing ignition switch or other cause.
It is a fast clicking noise or slow? Loud or quiet? Constant or does it change? If you think it’s your power antenna simply turn the key to the on position and watch the antenna to see if it goes up smooth. Then turn it off and watch it again does it go smooth this time? If so then more than likely it’s not the power antenna
Start by checking the batt., disconnect the batt. and remove, remove batt. tray, redo the chassis ground, [remove clean both the terminal and the grounding point] do the same at the engine ground.
Before reconnecting batt. clean both posts and the batt. cable clamps.
Remove and clean contact surfaces of your main fuses and make sure the screws are tight when you remount the fuses.
The clicking at the pass. side is probably the retracting seat belt control unit, [if you have retracting seat belts, your ECU/ECM is on that side also, along with DRL relay, [if you have Daytime Running Lights].:hmm:94
The clicking (near door post not gas filler cap) before the key was in the ignition was apparently caused by the seat belt motor; it must have been stuck in a movement cycle that it could not complete because the battery voltage was so low.