Hi, has anybody ever replaced rear quarter pannesl on a 2dr, 1990 integra???
is it hard?? is it worth doing??? cause I got some rust on my rear quarterpannels, and I wanna know if it’s worth replacing them, or just welding sheet metal behind and body fill it???
and 1 more thing, I put in a new batterie into my teg, but the batterie light still shines, any ideas???
First of all how much rust you got ? what I would do is to sand that rust off. Another best way is to cut the quarter panel and weld on another quarter panel instead of addng a piece of sheetmetal.
On your battery problem have you everchanged your Alternator yet ? you might wnat to check that out
never charged my alternator how do I do that???
the rust isn’t much, on the wheel well, but there are some spots that scare me.
did u check tha alternator belt?
Does Honda make replacement rear quarter panels for our cars? I thought that was part of the unibody structure?! I’ve got the same problem with rust in that area. I’m planning on grinding away the rust, applying rust protection, and repainting.
Originally posted by 90integraGS
Does Honda make replacement rear quarter panels for our cars? I thought that was part of the unibody structure?! I’ve got the same problem with rust in that area. I’m planning on grinding away the rust, applying rust protection, and repainting.
don’t forget to fill that hole with body filler or we’ll see your rust area.
most of the 2nd tegs have the most rust in those areas.
Originally posted by Mugen_r
never charged my alternator how do I do that???
Your alternator is on the firewall side of your engine. You dont recharge the alternator. The alternator is what charges your battery. When my battery light came on once, it was because the belt had came off and the battery wasnt getting charged. Check the belt, if the belt looks fine, then it is the alternator itself and you will have to replace it.
anybody got a rough price of a rear quarter panel? got the same problem.
Um… replacing the quarter panel would be a pain in the rear… You’d have to weld in a new piece, because an entire new quarter panel is a giant section. But if you welded… then you’d have to smooth in the welding seams…
But… if you grind away the rust, you cannot just use bodyfiller to fill in the gaps! If you use more body filler, than ¼ inch, it will most likely crack or chip -very- easily, quite soon… So what you have to do, is take fiberglass, (it comes in sheets, the cloth like type, not the wire mesh junk) and cut it in strips… Then use fiberglass resin, and mix that with liquid hardener, apply to the prepped rust removed area, and begin covering over any large holes that body filler would not be appropriate for. Apply generous amounts of resin. It dries quickly and is dangerous to skin. Also do not inhale fumes. =) Then after you have that built up, apply some body filler, sand, sand, sand, sand… until it looks like a quarter panel should. Apply some glazing putty, sand again, apply some more glazing putty, sand smooth… Apply body filler sealant, let dry, then prime… then sand… then prime… then sand… then paint. Heh. Have fun. I just finished doing both quarter panels on my car, and will have pics up soon, i suppose. If you have any more questions, or need something specific, just email me. I do body work.
HTH
hmmmm…this might sound real dumb. but could you shave the side moldings with that technique?
Yes. You could shave them that way… If you’ve never done body work, that’d be a little bit tougher than rust repair… IMO … But that would be the technique. More fiberglass, and less body filler. Always keep that in mind.
Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
[B]Um… replacing the quarter panel would be a pain in the rear… You’d have to weld in a new piece, because an entire new quarter panel is a giant section. But if you welded… then you’d have to smooth in the welding seams…
But… if you grind away the rust, you cannot just use bodyfiller to fill in the gaps! If you use more body filler, than ¼ inch, it will most likely crack or chip -very- easily, quite soon… So what you have to do, is take fiberglass, (it comes in sheets, the cloth like type, not the wire mesh junk) and cut it in strips… Then use fiberglass resin, and mix that with liquid hardener, apply to the prepped rust removed area, and begin covering over any large holes that body filler would not be appropriate for. Apply generous amounts of resin. It dries quickly and is dangerous to skin. Also do not inhale fumes. =) Then after you have that built up, apply some body filler, sand, sand, sand, sand… until it looks like a quarter panel should. Apply some glazing putty, sand again, apply some more glazing putty, sand smooth… Apply body filler sealant, let dry, then prime… then sand… then prime… then sand… then paint. Heh. Have fun. I just finished doing both
quarter panels on my car, and will have pics up soon, i suppose. If you have any more questions, or need something specific, just email me. I do body work.
HTH [/B]
veryy helpfull, but do you put the fiberglass cloth on the outside or inside of the rust, cause if you put it on the outside, there will be a lump of the fiberglass, but if you put it on the inside, it would be similar as to welding on another peice of sheet metal, and just cover the outside with body filler which wouldn’t be much.
Mugen_r:
Well, you have to remove the rust first… If you just have a small amount of rust, say slight surface rust, when you remove it, then you should basically have all the quarter panel intact (spelling?). And if thats the case, don’t use any fiberglass, just body filler and glazing putty. BUT - If you go through the metal, you have to patch the metal, and rebuild the quarterpanel back up (because you are now missing material, the rust ate away at metal, and you also ground metal away) - and to build the panel back up, use fiberglass sheets. Its very thin, so it doesnt get “lumpy”. But after you let it dry, it is sandable. So if you feel its left lumps or is not looking like, what you think it should look like, you can sand it pretty easily. Also, don’t forget you will be putting body filler over the fiberglass, to smooth it in all the way. But getting back to your main question, you will remove the rust, and put the fiberglass on where the rust -WAS- , not over or under the rust. There shouldnt be any left. I hope i answered your question, I didn’t quite understand it. Feel free to ask more.
Originally posted by IdntGlwIglisten
[B]Mugen_r:
Well, you have to remove the rust first… If you just have a small amount of rust, say slight surface rust, when you remove it, then you should basically have all the quarter panel intact (spelling?). And if thats the case, don’t use any fiberglass, just body filler and glazing putty. BUT - If you go through the metal, you have to patch the metal, and rebuild the quarterpanel back up (because you are now missing material, the rust ate away at metal, and you also ground metal away) - and to build the panel back up, use fiberglass sheets. Its very thin, so it doesnt get “lumpy”. But after you let it dry, it is sandable. So if you feel its left lumps or is not looking like, what you think it should look like, you can sand it pretty easily. Also, don’t forget you will be putting body filler over the fiberglass, to smooth it in all the way. But getting back to your main question, you will remove the rust, and put the fiberglass on where the rust -WAS- , not over or under the rust. There shouldnt be any left. I hope i answered your question, I didn’t quite understand it. Feel free to ask more.
what I meant is this:
picture a quarter pannel, see the rust on the wheel well?? You grind off the rust, but there is a whole in the pannel. do you put the fiberglass on Top of the rust when it’s grinded down or do you put it on the underside/ other side of the pannel, oppsite side (where the car was painted)
You place the fiberglass right on top of where the rust was. Where the paint was. Right on the bare metal, not on the underbody. But right on top. Do this -after- you’ve ground away the rust, of course. Also, some people like to put a rust protectant on, such as Por-15, all over where the rust was, before fiberglassing.
my turn for questions:
2simplex:
(1. do you have to strip the area to bare metal to apply fiberglass cloth to shave the moldings?) ---- The area does not need to be stripped to bare metal, but it does need to be heavily scuffed. A heavy grit sandpaper will do. If you choose to use a heavy duty wire wheel brush, and it goes down to bare metal, thats fine, but not neccesary.
(2. the fiberglass cloth wont crack or anything over time?) ---- Simply put - No. Fiberglass when in its hardened form (after the resin has been applied and has dried) is semi flexible. That does not mean it -IS- flexible, as in rubbery - but it has enough flex to it that it should never crack. Its a high quality material.
Feel free to ask more.
interesting. then i can use the same for those rain deflector things on my roof right?
Those 2 plastic indented strips on either side of the roof? Sure why not. Never heard of that though. But sure - you could fill those. Those are there for a reason though… Helps water go off the back of your car, instead of down the side and against the side windows…
any tips or pointers youd like to share, because im going to start the ‘shaved molding’ project this weekend. thanks again