rear suspension, worn bushings causing tire noise?

INFORMATION Integra Help
1

Well first of all I have been noticing ALOT of tire noise coming from my driver’s rear tire. I thougt right away that either a tire is choppy, or just plain bad. So I did a roataion and to my dismay the noise is still there. During my rotation I noticed the rear trailing arm bushing is starting to tear. I also remeber right after I got the car I was driving down an entrance ramp and there was a car stopped in the middle of the road so i had to stop really fast, the car slid sideways a little and my driver rear tire went over the curb. It was up and over as opposed to smacking it dead on. So I guess to boil it down my main question is could this noise be from worn bushings,(somehow) or does it sound like the rear trailing arm is bent?

P.S. I know its the left rear because if I go around a curve to the left the sound goes away.

thanks,

        Josh
2

It could be one of the wheel bearings, too, by the way. My car was making a grinding/scraping noise around turns (whenever the “weight” was put on that tire), and we found the wheel bearing was shot to hell (Rasped… one of the bearings inside exploded):shock: . Replaced it (easy job but need a hammer-drill), and now everything is fine.

~Eric

3

I belive this to be tire noise…like road hum? I checked all the wheels for bearing play and they all seem to be tight.

Thanks,

-Josh

4

Mine sounded exactly like wheel hum too… The bearings had no play to them, but if you were to take the rear wheel bearing off and open it up, you’ll most likely see that the track where the bearings roll on is scratched. The noise comes from the bearing balls hitting these scratches (gouges) rapidly.

I’m about 90% sure it is your wheel bearing. Does it happen on one side of the car only? If so, does it happen more noticeably when you are turning (away from that side of the car, therefore the weight of the car is rolling onto that tire, know what I mean?). If so, I’m positive it’s your wheel bearing. ie: If the noise comes from the passenger side of the car, the noise probably gets louder as you are making a left-hand turn (weight shifts to the passenger side). Or, on the flip side, if the noise comes from the drivers’ side of the car, then it most likely gets louder when you turn right, because the weight transfer from the turn places a lot more weight on the drivers’ side of the car.

Let me know if this holds true with your problem.

~Eric

5

dayum…sounds about right. I’ll have to check that out when the weather breaks.

Thanks,

Josh

BTW: what exactly was replaced just the bearing or did you have to replace the race as well? and a hammer drill or a air hammer?:smiley:

6

One more question I have is does it get quiter if you turn in the oppisite direction? like if its on the driver side does it get quiter if you go around a left hand turn or curve I mean? as the pressure comes off the wheel!

Thanks man,

-Josh:cool:

7

Originally posted by VICIOUS
[B]One more question I have is does it get quiter if you turn in the oppisite direction? like if its on the driver side does it get quiter if you go around a left hand turn or curve I mean? as the pressure comes off the wheel!

Thanks man,

-Josh:cool: [/B]

Exactly right… as the pressure/weight is off the wheel, it gets quieter.

As for what was replaced, the rear wheel bearing on our cars is normally sold as a unit, and includes the bearing, race, and the large brake-rotor looking thing (although its not the brake rotor, LOL – it just looks like one). Just ask any decent auto-parts store for a “rear wheel bearing for a 199x Acura Integra”, and it should be the right part (about 6-8" diameter circular thing with 4 bolt-type things coming out of it.)

As for what I had to use to loosen one of the large screw/bolts, I think my uncle (who is a mechanic, btw), used an impact wrench or impact drill, only because the screw/bolt was seized in place. I’m pretty sure if you had to, you could do it with a large screwdriver and a hammer, effectively making your own impact wrench. All you need to do with this is loosen the part a bit. May not even need it.

Anyhow, hope I’ve been helpful. I’ve emailed you the PDF file of the Helms manual for this section of the car, just to make sure you have the proper guidance to get the part changed right. It’s a simple job as long as you have jackstands, a tire iron, and a few small hand tools. Very easy job actually.

Good luck man!!
Let me know if this fixes your problem (I’m confident it will)

EDIT: Ask for a rear-wheel bearing HUB ASSEMBLY, at the auto parts store. As you can see in the file I sent you, it is much easier to replace the hub entirely (and not much more expensive). Also saves a possible mistake. the HUB ASSEMBLY costed me about $110 CDN (about $75 USD), and that is on the high side I think, depending where you get it from).