Guys, I have a 92 GS-R, and I just found out today it burns oil (quite a bit during driving), now I was wondering what to do.
Should I rebuild the engine, or drop a used (new for me) b17 engine in there, or should I drop a Civic SiR (b16a1 Im guessing) in there??
Before I waste a lot of money, I did a search, and noticed people with this problem wer advised to do a compression test. How do I do that?? is it worth my time to do it myself or should I just get a mechanic to do it for me??
regarding the b16a1, I cant use the same transmission, can I? (I can get a civic SiR engine for about $1200CAD, with about 80Km)
Or should I just drive the car as long as I can like it is, and get another car??
I should mention that the car runs great otherwise, everything is in great condition, my leather seats ar mint (almost), no other problems with the car.
Sorry for the long post, but I didn’t want to miss anything.
no way should you change from a b17 to a b16. Cost wise and reliability, you should just rebuild the engine because it will be brand new and less than a used b17. While youre there, you could spend a little money and get everything balanced
Originally posted by jgn77 I dont think he has a b17 in there now. He was contemplating b17 or b16. I would do the swap to b17.
Yeah, I got the b17 in there right now, thats the one burning oil.
The reason I was thinking about the b16 instead of the b17, because I can get the b16 for cheaper than the b17, cause the b17 are more rare (if that makes sense)
Reasonably, how much can I expect to spend on the rebuild??
It should only cost several hundred dollars to take it apart and put it together with new gaskets. If any of the bearings need replaced it would be a bit more - $150 replaces all of the main and rod bearings.
Originally posted by GSRRRR
[B]
Yeah, I got the b17 in there right now, thats the one burning oil.
The reason I was thinking about the b16 instead of the b17, because I can get the b16 for cheaper than the b17, cause the b17 are more rare (if that makes sense)
Reasonably, how much can I expect to spend on the rebuild?? [/B]
Originally posted by GSRRRR …I did a search, and noticed people with this problem wer advised to do a compression test. How do I do that?? is it worth my time to do it myself or should I just get a mechanic to do it for me??
Where can I find out info about doing a compression test?? (other than my mechanic, cause he charges an arm and a leg just to talk to him)
i helped my friend do a compression test on his supra…its really not hard at all…its easy w/ 2 people…
you have to get a gauge that reads compression…i dont konw what its called…basically…its a gauge that reads psi i think it is…and it has a hose coming out of it…and on the end…it has like a bolt w/ threads in it that you put into each spark plug hole after you take a plug out…gotta do each cylinder one by one…
so you take out the plug…put in the compression tool…and have one person crank the car (but dont start it)…and you keep on doing that until it builds compression from the pistons going up and down…eventually after a few cranks…the needle wont go up any higher…then you release the air in the tool by pressing the pin near the gauge (you would see what i am talking about if you saw the tool) and then take it out…put plug back…and repeat w/ each cylinder…
its not hard at all actually…it was my first time doing it…
as for the readings…i dont know what “good” or “perfect” compression is for our cars…i know for his its 159…the readings should be within a certain percent of each other…but i dont know what it is…sorry…hope i helped you overall though
You have to take off all of the plug wires, don’t just crank it until it almost starts. then crank the engine over 6 times and check if the numbers are within 7%
A compression test is done using a compression gage which can be bought for only a few bucks at an auto supply place. You take out all of the plugs and disconnect the coil wire if there is one. One person uses the gage, another sits in the car and cranks the engine. Hold the accelerator down all the way so that it can draw in as much air as possible. The gage has a tip on it similar to a tire pressure gage. In other words once it registers the compression it stays at that reading until you release the pressure. Hold the gage in the spark plug hole for at least three or four compression cycles and then take a reading. Note the reading for all cylinders. Check the absolute reading against the spec. Expect that the readings will be lower than spec, possibly quite a bit lower. This is natural for a high mileage engine. You should not have a variation among cylinders of much more than 10%. If so, this indicates trouble in a cylinder or two. The average compression indicates general engine condition. If you are more than 40 lbs or so less than the spec. your engine is tired and could have several worn out parts, valve guides, rings etc. One bad cylinder is often a burned valve or blown piston. In a four cylinder engine you would definitely notice this through loss of power and rough running. Hope this helps. I am a bit out of date but the principles are the same.