looking for a GOOD brake setup-- pads/calipers/rotors. suggestions?
oem acura/oem acura/oem acura
so lets have some more info on why you need a different brake setup
personal preference. something to toy with. time to replace brakes and just looking to replace 16 year old parts (except pads) with something nice. more of a want rather than a need. only thing i really need is new brake pads
EBC Red Stuff pads, factory everything else (except removal of ABS). Those pads WILL stop you quickly, and they don’t overheat your rotors to the point of warpage.
[SIZE=7]ROTORS DONT WARP! PERIOD.[/SIZE]
Stay OEM.
sigh… not this again…
So I take it this will be a street-only car? You need to take into consideration that not all brake pads, rotors, and lines are the same. You also need to realize that you probably don’t need as much as you think. If I were revamping the brakes on a street-only car, I would:
First and foremost, make sure the Master Cylinder is good still. If you buy new pads/rotors/lines and still have a shitty MC, you’ve just wasted your money.
Second on the list, make sure the Calipers are in good condition. Once again, if these are bad, they need to be fixed.
Once all those are checked and in good working order, check to see how much life your current rotors have left. Either that or go to Autozone and buy some cheap-ass rotors, whatever is cheapest.
Next buy pads. For a little improvement over stock, go with AEM brake pads. They’ll work at colder temperatures and stop a lot better than stock, at the expense of more dust.
Then go buy OEM rubber brake lines. The stainless ones are nice and all, but if they don’t have some sort of rubber coating around the outside dirt can get caught under the braid and wear out the rubber underneath.
Is this a big technicality argument that has been going on and I have missed? Sorry if I offended anyone with my garage talk, but in my area they call ANY out-of-round, concentricity, or thickness variation a “warp” in the rotor…just to keep it simple.
lol…just call it thermal deformation when refering to rotors gettin killed or warped or whatever.
I have the following set up…
Rotor Slotted front and rear rotors
Axxis ultimate front and rear pads
New Refurbished front and rear calipers
Technafit front and rear steel braided brake lines
no name brake fluid (killing me)
On crazy hot autocross days the brakes heat up pretty quick and still get mushy, which i am hopin to solve with some better brake fluid. Other then that I am happy with the set up. Altough for the money spent on all that stuff i coulda had a nice big brake kit on the front and oem brakes on the rear :mad:
The Ultimates SUCK as street pads. They don’t take too long to warm up, but they DUST.
yea my gunmetal wheels turn to an odd bronze color cause they are so caked in brake dust. Forgot to mention that. My buddie has the greddn stuff pads and he hates them, noisy as fuck and dont slow a car down. (he got the tire rack package, power slot rotors and green stuff pads). SO are the red stuff pads the same way :hmm:
thank you, this is exactly what i was looking for, as far as brake pads go i was looking into aem or red stuff, but now seeing that they may dust alot i may go with aem
The higher performance pads will also wear out the rotors really fast. Take into consideration the material in the brake pads. The ones that have a high metal content tend to be noisy and wear out the rotors and pads fast.
Honestly though, you can’t go wrong with OEM Honda/Acura. Most OEM replacements suck, and those million-mile pads suck even more. The million mile rotors kick ass though, because pads are cheaper and easier to replace than rotors.
tcrider84 - If you really have the $$$ to throw around give FastBrakes a call. There are many brands and setups out there, if you search you will find Wilwood comes up a lot. FB uses Wilwood calipers and can customize if you need it. I do agree with the others that OEM is still very effective for the street, but if you got the $$$ to play with, have at it. Just make sure you post up a DETAILED review when you are done.
Yes it is, and no it isn’t. It is not a technicality. Some light reading for you.
These should be required reading before ANYONE plays with the brakes. Read ALL of the threads, & the related links in them and you will understand.
Don’t dismiss it just because you have never heard of it. There are alot of common misconceptions when it comes to brakes. More or less the “dumb it down version” has become so common place that even mechanics don’t understand it.
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthre...ight=rotor+warp
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthre...ight=rotor+warp