Change the fluid in your trans to a fluid called “Syncromesh”. This fluid is made for GM manual transmissions, i.e. Chevy S10’s.
I have a 92 GS with a YS1 cable transmission. Now I was very skeptacle about doing this but my friend, with a 92 gsr, highly recommended me to make the change and he guaranteed that at the least, my trans will not grind as bad if I changed to syncromesh. Another friend of mine also recommended that I make the switch because he told me his friends DC2 stopped grinding after using it.
So I made the change and I couldn’t be any happier. My transmission stopped grinding. Don’t ask me how it works just know that it does. Also, FYI the fluid seems slightly thinner than 10w30 motor oil.
There has been quite a bit of talk about this stuff over on honda-tech. I suggest that anyone who is interested in learning more go over there and do some searches.
I used this stuff in my tranny awhile back, I didn’t notice a difference at the time. But just recently I changed my tranny fluid and used Honda MTF, my tranny now grinds a little more than it did before the fluid change. So, maybe there is a difference.
Also, one thing I read when I was reading on honda-tech was that it could actually be worse for your tranny than Honda mtf. (not meaning that it’ll “grind” more, but just that overall wear is increased). But I do not know how much validity there is to that statement. But figured I’d mention it so you can do your own research.
I have a 1992 Integra GS, which I converted from an automatic to a manual. The car has had no problems for the last 6 months. However, the other day I was at a stoplight went to put the car in first and there was a loud clunk and the car would not move. I turned the car off and then turned it back on then tried to move in first again and it would not work. The engine works fine but the car will not drive. The other funny thing is, is the car won’t move unless the clutch is pushed in. Even when the car is in neutral. We took the tranny out and it looks fine, and the CV joints are fine as well.
The GM stuff works very well!!!
We suggest using it in all the race trannys we build…
Make sure you get the “Friction Modifier” type as this will help even more…
two years ago, i had the same problem with it not moving, and it was my spring. it came out and got stuck in between the clutch and the pressure plate.
I haven’t done anything to my fluid since I got the car (I know I have enough) but if someone who really knows about cars can confirm this, it might be a good idea. My transmission doesn’t grind at ALL, nor does it slip, so I want to keep it in this kind of shape as long as possible.
my 2nd ard 3rd grinds.i used honda mtf and redline and the gears would still grind ,thats after i paid a tranny shop $800 to fix took em 3mths they couldnt fix it and gave me my money back .so i put gm synchromesh f/m and the grinds went away for a bit now 2nd grinds sometimes in the higher rpms
I had a problem with my 3rd gear grinding when I went over 4k rpms. It was just a slight grind, but I took it into Honda and they told me I needed a new tranny for $1600.
The car I have is a 96 GSR and I bought it with 40k miles on it because the guy went to the army and left his car.
I hung out with my friends cousinlast night at go kart racing, and he works for a Acura Dealership as a mechanic. He told me that when a car sits for a while the synchros gets some kind of chemical on them.
Anyways, he told me to start the car, rev the engine to around 4500, and slightly push the stick into 3rd without the clutch pressed in. Not to the point where it grinds, just slightly into 3rd before it shifts into gear. He said that would burn the chemical off the synchro.
Well needless to say I did it last night, and when I went to work this morning it slipped into 3rd clean even after reving to 6k rpms.
I thought I would post this just in case anyone else is having that problem. He said it works 50-60% of the time when they have cars brought in for that problem. Dont know if anyone has ever posted something like this, but its worth a shot and helped me.
hey whats up i have a 90 integra my foreward gears dont grind only reverse only if i dont hold the clutch for like 3 seconds itl grind … im thinking its the clutch but not sure … also i know its the wrong thread but i have a ? about the motor … its ticking and blowing alot of smoke >> i have no cat but b4 i replaced the head gasket it never smoked like that … its got, 192000 thanks alot
its normal for the trans to grind when shifting into reverse, if you are not allowing the trans to completely stop moving. NOTE when your foot is off the clutch the trans main shaft is spinning, when you press the clutch down the the main shaft has to stop spinning to engage reverse. also the reverse idler gear is straight cut and has no synchro. there is no problem with your trans!
as far as the engine goes, i would suggest a rebuild or at least valve stem seals…
The simplest solution to reverse grinding is to go to another gear first, then put it in reverse. I always put it in third, then go back to reverse. Never grinds.
completly normal. im on my second tranny and both have done it. as long as i start in a forward gear then go to reverse it goes right in, even if im moving forward, like 1-2mph it will go in without trouble.
I have the same problem.
Gears grind in 2nd and third, dependant on how fast I shift though. If i shift slowly it’ll just grind a lil where as if I shift really quick and hard it’ll almost slap?
Anyway, i’m due for a tranny oil change this saturday, might try synchromesh oil, if not, i’ll use synthetic and try synchromesh next service :). I’m expecting positive results with the synchromesh oil! lol, cause the gear grinding depresses me!