Every time. I never have a problem starting the vehicle with the key. And I think I eliminated my clutch switch as a possibility when I metered a ground on it, and the remote start was acting up. I don’t think I was clear on that in my original explanation. IIRC I got the supplied ground for this from the remote start moldules ground. However it wouldn’t be that hard to tap into the other side of the clutch switch either. Although I really don’t see how it would be a different “ground”. I suppose I could look at the vehicle’s wiring diagram in my Haynes manual to verify that it does in fact go strait to ground and not through the vehicle’s computer.
If you press the clutch and remote start your car and it doesn’t start even then, I’d have to say your alarm cpu is bad.I don’t see a diff in the grounds either unless there’s resistance that it looks for, but I doubt it.
I agree Steven, I have used both, or 3 way’s of doing it,
1- ground out when running, the RS bybass modual output, [the one I always use now]
2- a relay to connect the input and output of the clutch switch
3- a relay to supply a true ground .
All work just as well, so now I just use #1, I have not had a problem doing this on over 100 remote starts in Honda/Acuras. 94
You must have read my mind. I meant to post my results.
I think I got lucky and figured it out. This weekend I went out to my car and the remote start didn’t work. So I got in my car and for some reason the key wouldn’t work either. This is a first here. So I do some poking around (without my meter unfortunately which was left at work :mad: ) and determined that the problem most likely is with the alarm. So I checked the brain and found the main plug not quite all the way plugged in. I plugged it in and my car started right up. I’m wondering if this was the cause of my remote start troubles as well. Time will tell I guess. I guess that’s the draw-backs of seperating the R/S module so far from the main brain. But then I don’t care of the thief finds the R/S module as much as the brain. It also makes a good decoy.
Dei or to be specific, Viper alarms use a relay pack that has a ribbon cable.Sometimes it comes loose and semi-backs it’s way out.Alot of the time it causes the re-start to act screwy.Hope that’s all the problem was though.
I only install remote starts for manual trans.on cars with manual trans. so they will NEVER start in gear :giggle: although in the old days there were no manual trans. remote starts, and we did install a few auto trans. remote starts in manual trans. cars, never without at least 2 overrides one being some kind of microswitch on shift linkage and just to be safe a mercury switch wired to the brake input, so if the car lurched forward or or backwards it would send 12v+ into the brake input, shutting down the remote start, very effective 94
Yeah, I have a tendancy for that it seems. It’s so easy to miss one small thing like that.
An example of this was about a year ago when I was driving on the freeway and my car died on me. My car would try to start, but just wouldn’t “catch”. Plus it was back firing, so we knew it was a timing issue. I checked for spark which looked fine. So we figured the timing belt slipped. So I replaced the timing belt. When I was done, I still had the same problem. I finally pulled off the cap and found that the screw holding the rotor in place had fallen out. So the rotor had turned a little bit, causing the plugs to fire at the wrong time. It still gave me spark, so I didn’t suspect something in there to be bad originally, which was why I didn’t pull the cap off to begin with. Talk about going through all that trouble for something so minor. But then the timing belt had about 60k miles on it so it wasn’t a bad time to replace it.
We tried shock sensors, they didn’t work, the vibration of the motor trying to start would trigger it before the motion of the car lurching, but maybe one of the old school motion sensors, [with the mercury in it would work, we just salvaged the mercury bulb out of house termostats. :giggle: 94
Hmmm, I wonder if you used a shock sensor with built in adjustability you could get it to work. You should get a great deal more “shock” out of the vehicle lurching forward than just turning over. Although that would be really hard on the vehicle while you “test” it.
Well I don’t know if I fixed my remote start issue. But the vehicle not starting even with the key was from a different cause. I will start a new thread about that since it is kind of confusing me.
Are you sure the ig3 output is active while cranking? Since you tested it and it was on while not cranking, the alarm may be shutting it off while cranking. Something to think about.
I know you said you have it tied to the tach. Is the alarm set to tach mode and not current sensing? Do you have to learn the tach with this alarm? Did it learn right?
And this is not cranking at all, right? Not crank for a second and thinks it is started when it isn’t. I have that problem with the f250/350 and dlc alarms. I have to run extended crank tied to the charge light for them to start reliably.
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Good work.
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