removing abs system

INFORMATION G2IC Archives
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I know i read that someone on here did it, and i was just asking for some advice on how to go about doing it.

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you’ve got mail

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Originally posted by AMERIKAN
you’ve got mail

John… send some this way too…

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Thank you very much. This seems like a PITA project to undertake…i think i’ll have to practice flaring tubing first before i try. Why can’t you just take the system off a non-abs car?

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Eric you have mail…in case Amerikan didn’t get to it yet

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Originally posted by Eric
[B]

John… send some this way too… [/B]

The mailman always delivers:)

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hey mailman…errr AMERIKAN I need you to deliver to me too! I was wondering on taking off my ABS system too. Thanks a lot.

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I’m interested too. My ABS has been acting up for some time now. I just want it out.

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I want the info to could you send it to me please or post it in teg tips. Thank you much.

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Hey Amerikan

Can i get a copy too please. Thanks!!
If you don’t mind!!

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oh oh oh!! i want a copy, i want a copy… :slight_smile:

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Here is the start of my right up.

I under took this project for three primary reasons, cost of replacing or repairing a broken, problematic ABS system, desire for engine bay space and weight savings. And not necessarily in this order! The first generation ABS systems on our cars are prohibitavly expensive to maintain and repair properly and I believe it’s operation is sub standard compared with modern ABS systems weight and function.

After removing all portions of the ABS system, including modulator, accumulator, power unit, control unit, wheel sensors, relays, fuses and fuse connections from the under hood fuse box and most portions of the ABS systems wiring harness approximately 35 lbs. You are left with four brake lines too short to be usable and two rear lines that must be extended from the rear brake line manifold. The master cylinder is reusable but all brake lines in the front portion of the car should be replaced reason being they are too short to reach the location of a replacement proportioning valve and junctions to the old lines are unacceptable for safety reasons. You must have a brake proportioning valve or you will not have any front to rear brake bias control.

To do the job correctly you need a pipe cutter, to cut the brake lines square before double flaring, 4.75 mm brake line double flaring tool, a non ABS proportioning valve from an salvaged Integra, four brake lines and brake line separation clips purchased from your favourite Acura dealer. You should have a Helms Shop Manual for referencing the proper location of brake lines into the proportioning valve. I also recommend you take a look at a non ABS Integra to get some idea of the brake line routing and locations. In addition much patience, tenacity and long arms to reach some almost inaccessible areas under the intake manifold on the firewall and master cylinder are needed. There are alternative ways of doing the change over, manual-proportioning valves, etc, but because of the two separate diagonal brake systems on Honda’s this is the safe, simplest, cost effective, stock appearing, method I could devise. Have fun!

Here is what you need to do with the lines, it is quite complicated and if there is anything you don’t understand or have questions about get back to me, these are your only brakes!

  1. Purchase a used brake proportioning valve and mounting bracket from a non ABS Integra. The holes for mounting it are already on the shock tower under the ABS modulator location. The correct proportioning valve should have 50/50 lettering cast into its exterior.

  2. Purchase two new brake lines from the dealer running from the proportioning valve to the two front wheels.

  3. Purchase two new brake lines from the dealer running from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. On the rear line coming from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve you need to cut the fitting off the new line, install the larger fitting from the old brake line and double flare the new line to mate up with the master cylinder. The rear ABS master cylinder brake line fitting is larger than the stock metric fitting that comes on the new non-ABS line.

  4. Make up two short rear jumper brake lines from the proportioning valve to the rear brake line manifold accordingly extending the rear lines to reach the proportioning valve. Install the stock metric fittings and double flared the lines. You can scavenge the fittings and short sections of brake line from the old ABS system lines.

  5. After installing all the lines, fit the line separator clips at the proportioning valve to prevent damage from chafing to the lines.

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ARCHIVETHIS

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Marc,

Thank you. I was trying to post it here but was having some probs.
I checked on the 4 lines at Acura and they wanted $28.00 a piece for them…ugh

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Hey John,

Yea, seeing how the same line with out all the bends is less than $5.00 from the local auto parts store. So Maybe I should add into the write up, cost of lines and if you are good with a tube bender you could make your own. Did they have all the lines in stock? They will usually have the lines from the proportioning valve to the front wheel flex lines but not the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. Mine had to come from Japan and took about 2 weeks so plan ahead.