Replaced both axles, now shuddering upon acceleration

This is on a 1993 LS manual. Both axles had torn CV joints, so I replaced both with new axles (not remanufactured ones). Ever since then, the car shudders strongly upon acceleration. Holding a speed doesn’t do anything. When I raise the front of the car, remove the passenger side wheel and “drive” the car, I don’t feel the shudder. I do feel the shudder with the wheel on. I have already taken it to a shop who stated it was the front engine mount (which was torn). That’s been replaced with no effect on the shudder.

I’m thinking perhaps the transmission (which has been difficult to get into first sometimes) – clutch? flywheel? How about the intermediate shaft? I’m at a loss here and it appears the shops are dumbfounded too. Any ideas welcomed! :argh:

What brand axles did you replace with? My axles are brand new replacements and I have the same problem. I would assume that it has something to do with the axles no being balanced. I plan to replace mine with OEM once in good condition from a pull-a-part yard near me.

I would assume the axles are the culprit. Vibration upon acceleration is very often due to a bad axle - including ones that are brand new. I personally have had a vibration due to axles at least 2-3 times and once was with a BNIB Raxles axle so I wouldn’t say going with high quality parts will prevent it entirely.

For axles I recommend Raxles because of the quality and customer service. I’d never run OEM due to the insane cost and lack of warranty. I also don’t hesitate to use the cheap stuff from local nationwide autoparts stores so long as you get a lifetime warranty. Sure, you may replace them more often, but obtaining a replacement is super easy since they have store nationwide. With someone like Raxles you have shipping to deal with which can complicate things.

And of course, I will start with the obvious…for sure they were pushed all the way in to the transmission and intermediate shaft?

There’s all types of posts I found while researching axles about people having shudder with new axles not being balanced properly.

Your lower and upper ball joints are ok? No movement in the wheel when it is up in the air left/right, up/down?

[QUOTE=93IntegraGS;2333129]And of course, I will start with the obvious…for sure they were pushed all the way in to the transmission and intermediate shaft?

There’s all types of posts I found while researching axles about people having shudder with new axles not being balanced properly.

Your lower and upper ball joints are ok? No movement in the wheel when it is up in the air left/right, up/down?[/QUOTE]

This is what I was thinking as well. Are the axles seated properly and ball joints/tie rod ends tightened properly? Axle nuts tightened properly?

I’ll have to jack up the car and see. I had them installed at a shop because I don’t have time to work on the cars anymore because of work. The axles are from “Worldpac” which I think is a distribution company and it has a lifetime warranty. When the car was done and it exhibited this shudder, we took it back and told the mechanic to change it out. Apparently he did (I really have no way of knowing) and the shudder is still there. I’m not going back to that place. I hope I didn’t get screwed over, but I’m thinking I may have, and I don’t have any proof. This is exactly why I don’t trust shit from mechanics anymore. :bang: Especially on old cars which all of them think are just “junk”.

I already tried checking the wheel “play” when I took the wheel off as I stated in the previous post. Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll see about the tie rod ends, etc.

I’ve had an issue with excessive vibration upon acceleration in the past and in my case it was due to a bad “new” axle. Also, I have to mention that I purchased a set of axles from Kragen 15+ years ago and have gone through a number of them since then, on multiple cars. That said, I’ve swapped them out myself and for most of those 15+ years it’s been on a car that I don’t drive daily. Your situation sounds different. As much as you might hate going back to the mechanic that did the work, it might be the way to go. Demand that you didn’t have the vibration problem prior to their work and that they need to fix it.
My $0.02…
-nino

Where did you purchase the axles. The best parts store axles in my opinion are from Oreilys. I think Moog is the brand. And Moog makes pretty good quality stuff. I’ve never had to take back anything from Oreilys.

Get Raxel Axles. If you search this brand you will know that many people swear by them.

http://www.raxles.com/

Honestly I was about to sell my car cuz I had the same issue. It causes the shaft Trans seal to leak and hub bearing to go bad.
My last effort was to upgrade the axle to a 94+ ls short shaft and driver axle and Trans seal. And same with the passenger axle.
My issue went away.

is it perhaps possible that it’s not a problem with the axles? Maybe the installation of new axles just happened to coincide with the wearing out / failure of some of the transmission shaft carrier bearings? (apologies if that’s the incorrect term for those bearings). I experienced horrible vibrations in my car, when accelerating only in lower gears and with at least 50% throttle application. Problem was traced back to the transmission, which unfortunately required a rebuild.

Neil- I know you posted this last year but what ever happened to those raxles you had on? Get back to those. I have mine on since 2010 and lowered.

I won’t buy anything else anymore. It just sucks that I needed to do that in a pinch. Shops usually won’t wait for a part to come in. I would have had to have the part ready to go. But yes, Raxles only next time.

Apologies up front if this is the wrong place for this-point me in the right direction, please?

Has anyone else ever noticed weather the rebuilt axles from the chain parts stores have Vibration Dampners?? All of them I have seen did NOT, with one exception. It’s on the car now. After the first one vibrated it came back out and was returned. Finally found one from a now defunct parts store after three more trys. No vibration, no problems. I should have already said it was for a 91 DA ls.

​​​​Anyone have any ideas weather this makes any difference?

I’m hoping next time I need a new axle
I’ll have the time to get it from Raxles.

I’ve never noticed an issue with not having that rubber damper on the axle. I’ve had plenty of bad axles over the years but it didn’t seem to correlate with that damper.

All the rebuilt axles i went through never had Vibration Dampners. I went through more than 10 through 25 years of owning the car. I had vibration issues and tearing with the car lowered. Then in 2010 I bought Raxles. What a difference in handling. They have the dampners. And I have them running good since then. No replacement yet. No kidding.

All the rebuilt axles i went through never had Vibration Dampners. I went through more than 10 through 25 years of owning the car. I had vibration issues and tearing with the car lowered. Then in 2010 I bought Raxles. What a difference in handling. They have the dampners. And I have them running good since then. No replacement yet. No kidding.

Just to update this. Another mechanic stated that it may be a faulty bearing inside the manual transmission. This was replaced and helped a little.

I recently had the clutch replaced (worn) and the shudder is completely gone. Yes, I’ve dealt with this shudder for years.

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