Replaced starter, now, no crank at all

I attempted to start the car this morning and got erratic cranking and turnover, but engine did not start. I had a spare starter so I replaced that with an aftermarket one that I had. Now when I turn the key, I don’t get any crank. I was wondering if it had anything to do with how the gears line up on the flex plate (this is an automatic) but the starter didn’t give any trouble going in.

I am uncertain if this starter actually works, however, as I bought it refurbished from another member several years ago, just in case. Just wondering if this happened to anyone before. Maybe I need to look into another starter ?

Did you try a different battery or jump start? Double checked the connections and made sure it is torqued for a good ground? Did you test the starter before installing it? It should not matter about the gear mesh as it self aligns on throw out .

you ever replaced the dizzy before?

I can’t tell you how much Neil hates that term!

Nope haven’t replaced the distributor. The Helms manual stated that erratic starting is the sign of a bad starter so I tried this first, especially considering I had the (supposedly good) part.

Neil, if the starter isn’t turning then the distributor can’t be part of the problem. If the engine was turning over (starter turning the engine) then it could be a distributor issue.

Can you explain more what you mean by “erratic”? Did you try starting it over and over and over with the same result each time? Or did you only try once then switch to a different starter? If you’re really familiar with this sorta stuff it should be pretty easy usually to pinpoint the problem but without seeing exactly what went down it’s a little tough to say for sure which component you should be looking at. For example, it could just be a dead battery - it was only a little dead at first, enough where it turned over but not enough to start it. Then you tried starting it again with the same results and drained it more. Then by the time you swapped in the other starter the battery could be completely dead.

Is there any clicking or anything? Can you tell if the starter solenoid is working?

I went to the starter first because I know this starter is old. I want to say it’s the original or hasn’t been changed in about 10+ years.

The battery is about 1.5 years old. Voltage was good, but I can’t check the amperage. (I should really have a battery tester for home use…)

You’re right, I didn’t really do my due diligence is checking other things first, because I was really waiting for this starter to go. I also have limited time to work on my car so I just dove right in and took a chance. Unfortunately it may have been the wrong decision. The next time I can work on my car is tomorrow night, which unfortunately is the same time I plan on mailing out G2IC shirts.

I tried starting it about 3 times in a row and then stopped and waited about 5 mins, then did it again. It would definitely try to turn over but was… jerky? it wasn’t a smooth crank and each time was different. It was definitely trying. I got the same result when I came home that day and tried it again. I would think by that time the battery (if faulty) wouldn’t have been able to push the starter anymore.

I don’t remember hearing the starter solenoid but I can put a multimeter on there and check for continuity. Because I don’t think the starter failed, but is failing, an “OK” result here can be misleading. . .

Solenoid on the old one checks out okay. I’m gonna put the old one back in.

I put the old one back in. Cranks as it did before.

Here’s a video of what I’m getting. This is cranking while being hooked up to Karen’s car (i.e. getting a jump).

https://youtu.be/KPd7u8PpzJg

It almost turns over towards the end of the video.

I checked out the ignition coil and the ignitor (resistance readings, voltage readings) and they all checked out. I had a new ignitor available so I swapped it out. It made no difference.

Any other ideas? Thanks.

I am getting spark from the distributor.

Do you hear the fuel pump prime? Have you checked for fuel pressure? Also have you checked your chassis grounds on the battery and engine.

I hear the prime. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge so I can’t check it. I looked at the chassis grounds and not seeing anything out of the ordinary. I want to check the one under the battery support though. Any particular ones you’d be concerned about?

I put it in Neutral and cranked it. It started but it’s pouring out icky smoke.

15 mins later. I have turned it off and on 3 times now and it’s starting like a champ with no hesitation. The icky smoke at the beginning was probably just the pent up fuel. But why start in neutral but not in park? Perhaps just a fluke?

Now it’s starting in park and in neutral as if everything is fine. ARGH.

Neutral safety switch? Lol, never had an automatic Integra!

Started up fine again this morning.

I’m wondering now if it was the ignitor, but it didn’t start after I replaced it because of all the repeated bad starts from before. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I don’t think it was the neutral safety switch. When you try to start the car when it’s in R/D/S, it won’t even crank.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you Neil, but looks like you’ve sorted it out at least for now. It definitely sounds to me that the issue is not starter related at all. The video seems to show a starter that is functioning just fine but the engine just isn’t firing - which would leave you to assume it’s spark/fuel related. IMO a cheap B&M fuel pressure gauge is a worthwhile investment, I’ve had one for years now and it’s SO nice in instances like this to instantly be able to confirm fuel pressure.

In regard to the coil and igniter, they are not only notorious for failing but also notorious for being temperamental when doing so. And in my experience you can’t trust the diagnostics in your Helms. It seems it’s not uncommon for the components to pass the diagnostic tests but still be faulty.

was the starter you installed, by chance, for a manual transmission? manual and automatic will be different parts due to the depth the pinion needs to engage either the flex plate or the flywheel.
not that it makes much difference with your current issue (which may be difficult to find without it occuring), but at least would solve that mystery

Thanks guys.

You may be correct about the starter being for a manual. I didn’t think that they’d be different. I’ll keep it for the wife’s teg.