I’m considering rewiring my cooling fan (passenger side) but was curious about a few things.
I deleted my AC and all related components a few weeks ago, including the smaller condenser fan. Now, I’ve noticed (and mind you, I’ve noticed this since I’ve had the car) that the other fan ALMOST NEVER cuts on at all. Even when temps get a little high, it was always the other fan (condenser). When it did cut on, it was noisy (sounded clunky like it wasn’t spinning properly). Now, it just outright won’t come on. I’m assuming the fan is dead. Motor likely went out. So, my question is this simply this:
Can I put the condenser fan, which I KNOW works (because I couldn’t get THAT one to turn off killed 2 batteries on me) in the spot where the current cooling fan is? will it physically fit without modding, or minimal modding?
And, which wire is the “hot” wire for this, as I intend to simply do what others have done, and wire it to a pin in the fuse box that will allow it to be on when the car is running. Also, I noticed there are 2 plugs for the fan (one is green, the other is “white”. Are both necessary? Or can I get rid of one particular set of wires since I’m wiring it notably different than OEM spec? If so, which one do I keep, Green or White? and again, which one is the hot wire, and which is ground? I don’t have my Haynes manual handy to help me out.
Its very likely that I’ll wire it to a switch in the near future, so it won’t be on all the time in the winter.
Of course, I will be using an inline fuse for protection, for the record. 15A should do the job, correct?
I just ran a pin from the open spot in the fuse box and put it to 2 relays. Used the temp switch to activate it. Basically I have a 4 prong relay; 2 have constant power from the fuse box ( split the power wire into 2), one coming from the fan switch, and the last one going to the fan. now my fans cut on while the car is parked until it completely cools off. And I have 2 fans btw. hope that helps u.
On USDM G2s with A/C the rad fan/condenser fan wiring/control was a little complicated and used a “Radiator Fan Control Module” and an “A/C Diode” pack to turn on the rad fan an condenser fan or both.
If the rad fan is bad you should be able to replace it with the condenser fan with little or no mods.
The rad fan power is white, plugs to blue/black on rad fan, the condenser fans power is blue/black to blue on condenser fan.
The rad fans ground is what is switched, blue to blue, [black on condenser fan].
I would make sure the "Engine Coolant Temperature Switch is working, it supplies a ground to the “Radiator Fan Relay”, [located just in front of batt.] it is the yellow/green lead at switch and relay, output from relay is the blue lead, [to blue on rad fan] you would connect to black on condenser fan.
If you want to connect the rad fan, [condenser fan to a switch] use the rad fan relay or another relay, do not wire power directly to it from a switch.
Test the rad fan relay by supplying a ground to the yellow/green lead, if fan turns on, use the relay, if ECTS is N/G replace it or use a switch to supply a ground to the relay, the fan was not designed to be on all the time, normal engine temp. is controlled buy the thermostat and the rad fan turning on only if engine coolant is too hot, the rad fan is controlled by the ECTS, if it is not working it should be replaced. 94
If anyone is re-wiring their fans, especially after removing the AC they really should check out the Helms manual. There are some good diagrams in there. Personally I like to remove all the relays and the control module and wire the radiator fan to mimic the Canadian non-AC cars. It’s a much simpler setup.
killed 2 batteries on me) in the spot where the current cooling fan is? will it physically fit without modding, or minimal modding?