well I’ve had them on the car for over 6 months.
during installation
I replaced the rubber boots with factory oem boots and cer clips. Also greased the joints.
I have a 4ish inch drop and have had no issue with them
just remember the ball joint boots need to be changed and the factory ones fit perfect.
on my old car I ran the ingals type (inboard style) all I can say is they were junk comparred to these.
Mine failed within 6 months… didn’t grease the ball joint. Do you know if the oem/aftermarket ball joints fit the Rhino arms?
[QUOTE=Ballade;2113123]
just remember the ball joint boots need to be changed and the factory ones fit perfect. [/QUOTE]
…
ball joints and ball joint boots are not the same thing.
oops…
rhino arms
my question is where can i find decent balljoint grease? anyone know who makes the oem grease or where I can get it because that stuff rocks. Im bout the scrape from off a bunch of old parts…
I’ve had a set of the rhino arms for about 4 years now and the joints fail pretty often, i cant say the skunks or revo do much better based off others experience. Im wondering if anyone knows how to make these things last.
i think alot of it has to do with the boots just breaking because the angle of the joint on a lowered car, it pinches the boot on the inner edge of the joints bottom steel shrouding. when the car goes down the the knuckle goes up in comparison creating a angle. they went through 75% of a red energy in about a month so i switched to the honda ones with the metal ring inside and havent had a problem since. im pretty sure if you bent the outer part of the arm to match the angle of stock height this wouldnt happen but thats kinda hard to do. I’ve thought of longer allen bolts with washers jacking the outer side of the joint down but that sounds kinda dangerous
first i put them on as is and they the boots cracked and killed the joints in about a year
next i bought skunk 2 joints and and repacked the joints with autozone balljoint grease (valvoline i think) which didnt leak but turned to dust and wore them out in like 3 years.
i guess 3 years was a long time for me to just change the grease but i have the stock ones still tight and as greasy as they were in 1993 without any care so I guess next soon as i get my new set from blackworks ill try to find some oem honda grease and boots to put in.
well my ball joints kicked the bucket so I installed some Skunk 2 ball joints on the rhino arms.
needed some longer bolts a few washers and nuts. the spacing is almost dead on. only problem was the skunk 2 ball joint is not threaded ( the SK2 plate is) and i didn’t use the threaded plate, thats where the longer bolts and nuts come in.
I’ll post back later with my results.
guess next soon as i get my new set from blackworks ill try to find some oem honda grease and boots to put in.
Blackworks makes upper control arms for out tegs if so can you show me somewhere that sells them im in the market for a set and would like to see my options thanks.
Same here. I noticed, on their website, they only offer camber kits for the EG, DC and EK. http://www.bwrusa.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42
yea thats all i could find too
i think he was talking balljoints only not the control arm
one week in and SK2 ball joints are working fine. front end is tite.
I think this is the only true fix for a slammed DA and I still have 1.9 degrees of negative chamber with the ball joint fully out. Grrrrr
so this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-PRO-SERIES-CAMBER-KIT-BALL-JOINT-TOP-PLATE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33583QQitemZ320535427020 will work on a rhino upper control arm kit?
thats a great question so if i were to get the control arms i could just replace the ball joints with some skunk 2s like in the above thread.
I’m still running the skunk 2 ball joints on the RINO arms and all is well.
that is great i think i know what im going to buy thanks
My experience with rhino (ebay) upper control arms:
First thing I noticed when attempting to install them was that the flange on the back side of the control arm contacted the wheel well and wouldn’t allow me to thread the bolt through the bushings. Took some material off with an angle grinder.
Second, the boots that came with the ball joints were garbage. I greased the ball joints and tried to seal the boots, but they still failed in < 2000 miles.
Third, the control arm webbing closest to the front of the car rubbed against the wheel well, on both arms. Had to bust out the angle grinder again.
Fourth, the bolts and lock washers after 2000+ miles are sub-standard quality and should not be expected to last in the long run. Replaced with stainless steel.
Finally, since rhino/ebay doesn’t sell replacement camber-plate ball-joints, I elected to use Blox replacements. The good news is that the mounting holes align. The bad news is that fitment sucks since the original ball joints are smaller. This sounds like a job for, you guessed it, the angle grinder. Had to grind off the top part including the blox logo, part of the sides of the circle on top, and the sides of the plate itself in order for it to fit flush up in the control arm.
My recommendation: No.