Rocker Arm way too loose, need assist.

So I blew my old B18A1, bought a “new” B18A1 with 120k on it, got the swap done the other day, engine starts up but doesn’t run right… It runs very rough, and needs the accelerator holding it up past 2k rpm to stay running… Took valve cover off out of stumped boredom and noticed the rocker arm closest to distrib. was just laying in there (not good I imagine). It looks like the spring thing that it sits on is too compressed compared to the others, the arm just slips right in and out… Need to have my teg running very soon, as I’m moving and need it to be moving with me, any help appreciated. Here’s pics if they’re any help.

Please get back to me with any help, thanks…

Did you adjust the valves when you put the head on

yeah, adjust the valves and tell us what results you get. get yourself a haynes manual and a feeler gauge and have at it. if worse comes to worse, you MIGHT want to think into getting a new set of valve springs. better safe than sorry, but please diagnose that as the problem first. dont go buy valve springs, install them, and that not fix it. trial and error my friend. btw, dont even think about re-installing that valve cover without replacing the gasket :wink: you’ll get a lesson in engine detailing you wont soon forget :wink:

Yeah I have no idea how to do the valves, and I do have a haynes manual it never seemed to be useful on any of my other 3 integras or this one, so maybe this is it’s day. And yeah I’ve got new gaskets etc. Someone suggested taking the head off the old engine and swapping (which I also have no idea how to do), so maybe if they can come over and lend a hand tom. I’ll get something done…
Will keep updated

head swapping is a little drastic, but if you feel you must. be prepared for some mighty torquing when it comes to those headbolts etc. head-gasket will be needed, and making sure that the surfaces of the block and the head are PERFECTLY clean and free of any of the old gasket is CRITICAL. just have your friend help you out adjusting the valves before you go pulling the head. that is really a pretty time consuming job, especially if you’ve never done it before. my first head swap on my friends accord was quite a ride (i was practically a total n00b at that time) good luck, but definately just do the valves first.

i dont remember the specs, but get yourself a feeler gauge from autozone (one with REALLY small incriments) they are only like $5. when doing the valves, the particular cylinder you are working on, the piston must be at TDC before attempting. stick the feeler in between the rocker arm and where it connects with the valve, tighten it to the specs in your manual on each valve (intake and exhaust have different specs, so make sure not to mix them up) all you need to adjust them is a flat head screw-driver, a wrist, and a hand to turn it lol. to get the respective cylinder to TDC, just put a LONG screwdriver or socket extension into the spark plug hole (this will help you determine WHEN its at TDC) and turn the crank pulley until the screwdriver/extension reaches its highest point before the piston starts going back down. when it starts to go back down, just turn it back the other way a little bit until you’ve found it at a perfect TDC. now to avoid alot of time and effort, you can do two cylinders at once, so instead of turning the crank four times, you’ll only have to do it twice. pistons 1 and 4 will be at TDC at the same time, and when those two are at BDC pistons 2 and 3 will be at TDC. good luck. it really is alot easier than it sounds. trust me, do that first before you go pulling the head. because even then, you’ll still want to adjust the valves on that head before starting it up. so to save yourself from doing a LOT of unnecessary labor, just do the valves on this head first and see what you come up with.
just in case you didn’t know TDC-Top Dead Center BDC-Bottom Dead Center

as far as having to rev the engine up to 2k to keep it running, i really dont think that valve adjusting is gonna resolve that however, that sounds like either a fuel or ignition problem. but we’ll get to that once you’ve gotten the rocker arm situation figured out and/or fixed.

i wish you the best of luck my friend. be careful, and take your time :bow:

Since his rocker arm isn’t opening the valve, I can see why it doesn’t run well.

A valve adjustment takes about 20 minutes to do, swapping a head takes a few hours, and then you have to do a valve adjustment on the new head anyways. If you or your friend don’t feel comfortable doing the vavle adjustment, tow your car to a shop and let them do it.

Well doing valve job today, will post updates…

Thanks for all help

keep us posted. would like to know how this turns out :wink:

Adjusted the valves where the one was entirely too loose, turned the key*, turned over with very little struggle and stayed at about 1k idle, after about 45 secs it died off… pulled valve cover and did all the valves (very tedious job I learned), turned over with no struggle and stays idling with no problem (still a little high about 1100). Took it for a few spins around the block, shifts fine, revs are fine, only thing I notice is off, is when I come off the gas it sometimes stays idling at about 2k, had that problem with another '91 GS but not nearly as high…

I figure I’ll play with the distributor a little tomorrow see where that gets me, other than that engine swap is complete! (me very relieved)


oh and the reason I put a * by “key,” I realized afterwards I’d been using my '96 GS-R key for it the entire time with no problem, thought that was kind of interesting heh…