Royals' Super Slo-Mo build thread

Okay, my Integra owning brethren. I’m going to do my best at a build/restoration thread.

I found a Saxony Blue 1991 Integra GS for sale, on Craigslist. Drove over the mountains to Denver on a cold Spring morning to get him. Glad I went the day I did. The next day, an avalanche closed the highway. :shock: Turns out it was the guy’s first car. He was glad to know it’s going to a true gen-2 enthusiast. The car hasn’t run, since 2014. He said it was overheated to the point of no return. A full engine rebuild or replacement is required. He already purchased a 1990 B18A1, but just never got around to swapping it in.

Enough chatter… on with the pics.

On the trailer
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On the ground for pics before things get serious.
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The interior is pretty shot.
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I really didn’t expect any different. Already planned on replacing it all, anyway. I am not a fan of the “denim-ish” material used in 1991 interiors.

Friday night at the shop… Let’s get this party started.!!

engine/trans are out.
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Couldn’t decide if I wanted to put in the other engine to move it easily, or go to town with disassembly and cleaning.

Made the executive decision to gut the engine bay for cleanup and paint, if necessary.
Part way through gutting the bay.
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For anyone who hasn’t tried to completely gut an engine bay, this is A LOT of work. Takes time and patience to get things apart without damage on a 28 year old car.

Feels good to be back on the forum THANK YOU, Neil, for all you do for us.!!!

Was finally able to move it a fairly permanent home, in the girlfriend’s garage. That will help a bunch. Haven’t gotten any farther with the engine bay.

Current plan for the car is a complete refurbish with manual trans swap, a mild engine bay tuck, and possibly OBD1 conversion. Right now, paint is my big hangup. Finding a reputable body shop that will take on a complete repaint has become a challenge. Of course, finding suitable replacement trim pieces isn’t easy, either. You guys already know that, though.

Things I will need help with:

Finding necessary parts for the manual trans swap. There is a junkyard in North Carolina that has all the parts necessary (shifter/linkage/pedals). I would rather give my money to a fellow G2IC member, if someone has a donor car with these parts.

Also, looking for brake lines and prop valve for RS/LS non-antilock brakes. I bent my own lines for my DB1, but am looking for a clean factory set for this one.

And… information about various things. I’d like to bounce ideas off you guys, and get your thoughts. This may be my car, but I am open to outside input.

Ideas for the engine. I’m hoping to get 190-200 HP.

My original thought was to replace the B18A1 with a B20B with P8R head. I like the idea of a non-V-Tec engine running similar numbers to V-Tec. Don’t ask me why. I’m just weird, like that. The flow characteristics of the P8R head are the only way to make it possible. It is funny to me to see that I can get a complete B20B cheaper than just the P8R head, itself. Any of you B20V guys have a good P8R head for sale.?? :wink:

Compression will have to be 11-11.5:1 This car will live at higher elevation(5,000 feet and up), so high compression is a necessity.

Cams: Crower 403’s with Crower valve springs/retainers.

Intake manifold: BLOX and Skunk2. Is there any difference other than price.? I know I will need a bigger throttle body. I have no idea what size to get, though.

Header: Basically anything reputable with a 4-2-1 design. Definitely open to suggestions, here.

 Anyone have input on this.??

190-200 HP is doable with a non-VTEC motor but it is a lot more work to get to that level. That is the reason that people usually just put on a VTEC head.

Cams: To get the most out of the 403s I would get the head ported and then it should alleviate some of the issues of you wanted to do the P8R head.

Intake manifold: They are pretty much the same, unless you went with the Ultra Street. Would just come down to personal preference.

Header: Toda Replica or the Skunk2 Alpha would be the best bets without breaking the bank.

Thanks for the response, Stoopid1. I’ve been looking at the PLM Toda or Type-R replicas. That’s still a long way off, at this point.

Been getting in some time with it. Have everything stripped from the interior, engine bay, and front suspension.

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Been trying to clean the fenderwells, too. Holy cow, what a job. Will be so nice to have 28 years of grease and road grime out of there.

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Not done, but MUCH better. The entire area of the picture was as black as the upper section.

Depowered my steering rack, while I had it at work for cleanup.
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Looks like you are making some pretty good progress! Should be well worth it when it’s all said and done.

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Not much of an update. I got a non-ABS prop valve. A bit of brake fluid got onto the mounting bracket. Decided the bracket needed refinished. When I undid the screws holding the bracket to the valve, the valve came apart. The screws hold everything together. So… Since the two halves were apart, I thought I would disassemble it completely, and see what’s inside. In case anyone is curious, this is the inside of your proportioning valve.

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Suspension completely disassembled, degreased, and ready for the powdercoater. :slight_smile:

Also… this arrived in the mail. :clap:
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Been so long, I forgot how to do this… lol. THANK YOU, NEIL for getting this place going, again.

Crazy to think, it has been 3 1/2 years, since I posted.

This is a crazy pic from a couple years ago. I live in an apartment, so no nice garage to keep my poor little car. I have since gotten a storage unit, for Winter.

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I don’t miss the winter. I kept the tegs in the garage but man…

Stealth mode

Gonna put in some pics to make up for the ones missing:

Stripped interior:

t

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Took apart the proportioning valve to clean everything. This is what’s inside, if anyone is curious.

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Suspension pulled out, cleaned up, and removed all the bushings.

And, this showed up while everything was out for powder.

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That makes up for most of what was missing…

Pile of OEM Honda hardware.

Parts back from powder coating.

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