Just finished installing mine this week using Leo’s how to but instead of pressing out the old bushings… I justgave it a few wacks with the hammer and it popped out no problem.
Another thing, the tool I’ve rented didn’t come with the 90-93 Integra adapter ring so I ghetto rigged it to work. What I did was put two small wrenches inbetween the cup and the trailing and used the wrenches to push the bushings out…
I did my entire car with ES bushings and with stock springs/struts it was a night and day difference. Nice write up, I too highly recommend updating your bushings
Pictures don’t work anymore…
Hmmm…I don’t know whats up with the pics 
[QUOTE=da9leo;2104973][size=4]If your like MattyG2 and you beat on your car, then mostlikely your bushings are old and worn out. Since matt is SuPa FaZt n JdM he decided it was time for an upgrade, well more like a fix
Do this at your own risk, if you lose any limbs or die its not my fault
well first off you need some tools:
14mm and 17mm sockets
1/2 inch ratchet
torque wrench
breaker bar if your weak 
jackstands
floor jack
RTA bushing (Mugen, OEM, ES)
OEM part# is 52385-SK7-N02
start off by loosening the lugnuts and raising up one side of the car.
Make sure to always use some jackstands to secure the car,
CIMG1758.jpg
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When the car is secured loosen and remove the 14mm bolt holding the Toe arm, and the 14mm bolt for Camber arm, then remove the 2 17mm bolts holding in the RTA bushing bracket in place
sorry forgot to take pic 
If your car is as JdM as matts, then your bushing will look like this
ripped and torn after years of abuse
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Then get your OEM/MUGEN/ES RTA bushing
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Then get your cool tool SCHLEY PRODUCTS INC 65130 HONDA/ACURA BUSHING X-TRACTOR tool
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If you followed your instructions your tool should look like this
the using a ratchet and 14mm socket turn the end, forcing the bushing out the opossite side. Make sure if you are using OEM/Mugen RTA bushings to “clock” them, this is done by marking the position of the “flat part” on the bushing bracket to another point on the RTA. So when you replace the bushing it will be as close as possible to the original position
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if you did everything right and the bushing fell out the backside, it should look like this
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now look at your old bushings and wonder why you were so lazy to replace them. Look at how nice the new one looks :drool:
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After “clocking” the OEM/Mugen bushing, replacement is the same as removal
place your tool over the bushing and your your ratchet and 14mm to press the bushing back in the front side of the RTA
now tighten and torque everything down that you took off (camber arm, toe arm and RTA bushing bracket)
follow torque specifications from your HELMS/HAYNES Manual
Now what you want to do is take your car to the alignment shop as your toe will be off
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Uploaded most of the pics, and linked the last 2!
thanks didnt realize that the pics were down
I’m about to do mine this week, I was wondering if anyone has tryed using the Type R RTA’s they are solid and look like they would fit.
Are type are bushing the same as the rs,ls,gs,gsr bushing
They are all the same.
Is it possible to use the rta bushing from the 3rd gen tegs? Part number 52385-S21-003 or do we have to use the rta bushings for our year? Parts are $20 difference in cost DA’s being more $$
The DC RTA bushing will not fit the DA Trailing Arm.
Thanks. I guess I will have to either go with http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8314 or DA OEM…
I have no knowledge on the Prothane trailing arm bushing, but I went with OEM and love it.
Actually it can. You just have to burn out the old rubber, and get the DC pressed into the DA metal shell. I myself just ended up getting DC arms, because I’m anal like that, but I know for sure there are some members running that setup with no problems whatsoever (Colin I believe is running DC Mugens in DA arms). If you feel uneasy about the DC bushing coming out, you can always just put a little tack weld where the two sleeves mate.
Here’s a nice link an OG member made:
http://phase-shift.net/Projects/Automotive/TABushing.htm
And another from Wes V. (RIP):
http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bushing/bushing.html
I forgot to add you can use the DC bushing if you use the DA outer shell and press in the DC bushing into it :werd: Good correction mrpenny :rockon:
[QUOTE=mrpenny;2149041]Actually it can. You just have to burn out the old rubber, and get the DC pressed into the DA metal shell. I myself just ended up getting DC arms, because I’m anal like that, but I know for sure there are some members running that setup with no problems whatsoever (Colin I believe is running DC Mugens in DA arms). If you feel uneasy about the DC bushing coming out, you can always just put a little tack weld where the two sleeves mate.
Here’s a nice link an OG member made:
http://phase-shift.net/Projects/Automotive/TABushing.htm
And another from Wes V. (RIP):
http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bushing/bushing.html[/QUOTE]
Awesome man thanks for the info… I think I am going to try to go this route for my build project…
No problem guys. :rockon: