Short Shifter?

Hi i wanted to know if short shifters can cause any problems in the trany or the linkage or anything else,I know sometimes they rattel on the exauhst, so before i buy one I just want to know if it could mess anything up, also any brand better then another
thanx

sometimes people complain that it messes up the syncros. and that it buzzes/rattles.

never heard the syncro problem…and the buzzing is caused by the heat shield. simply bending the shield fixes it

i recommend it…B&M dual bend :up:

which is why i said SOME people complain. not all. and mine buzzes even with the heatsheild removed. and no, it does not touch my exhaust. it just rattles. B&M dual or single bend :rockon: i got a straight one. its great, but i have to reach for the “upper” gears.

i had a B&M single bend before and it was making so much noise. So when i upgraded my exhaust to 2.5" piping, it was even worse.

So, I switched to a skunk2 dual bend SS and all the rattles went away :slight_smile:
The throw is shorter on the S2 and i love the dual bend design that brings the shifter closer to you. Also the Design of the bottom of the S2 Shifter is better, meaning it doesn’t stick down so much, unlike the B&M, which is basically a sphere, which takes up more room underneath. The S2 is a cylinder on the bottom, which is a much better design.

You can also cut the counterweight off of the linkage. I was a bit iffy at first because I had no clue how it would affect the feel of the shifter, but i wanted to tuck my 2.5" exhaust as high as possible, so i cut it. Cutting the counterweight made no difference what-so-ever in the feel of the shifter :slight_smile:

The Skunk2 dual bend is probably the best shifter that’s in some degree affordable for our cars. It could be argued that there are a couple of better ones out there but for the money they just are NOT worth it.
As for problems yes there are some people who’ve experienced messed up synchros but they are few and far between. Exhaust rattling is very common but doesn’t seem to be quite as common with some brands as compared with others.
Also, if you’re perticularly picky about your shifting, buying a nice weighted shift knob like a skunk2 knob would be advisable. It’s a really heavy shifter and it makes for some great shifting.

thanx for all the help i all ready ordered the skunk2 knob i think i’ll go with the skunk2 dual bend, with the dual bend it would make it closer to you(driver) right, rather then a a straight one?

afirmative!

i have a generic ss which is the same bend shape as the stock one but shorter slightly in height and abotu 40% shorter in throw… i cut the threads off the top so its even shorter in height cuz i like the stubby look. for the rattling it could be from the actual linkage holding the bearing part of the shifter… mine was not tight enough so the metal parts of the 2 peices were kinda loose and would rattle while driving which was annoying… i simply put rubber o rings as washers on each side of the shifter bearing and tightened it so it was snug… if you tighten it without the rubber o rings it could feel significantly stiffer and not as “smooth” i love the way my shifter feels now… and also if you dont tighten the linkage properly you can cause grinding since the throws wont be as precise

I have a TWM performance short shifter doesnt rub and reduces throw by about 50-60% if i had to guess.

I agree with Clift. I have a B&M dual bend in my car with a skunk2 shift knob, and shifting feels excellent. However, I’ve driven with a skunk2 dual bend with an s2 knob and it’s even better. No complaints about the B&M though, it’s perfectly centered and the throw is equally short all around. :rockon:

Do you need new bushings as well( energy susp. urithain type) and what would that do exactly
thanx

so on ebay there are some good deals on the skunk2 dual bend for like 89bux. but they say its for a 94+ teg. so does that really mean that the g2 and g3 shifters are diffrent?

they are the same

you don’t need it, but you might as well change em up while everything is apart. Chances are your OEM bushings are wearing out, since our cars are 15-12 years old now.

change em. its only like $10-15 or so. Might as well since youre already down there.