Skunk 2 intake manifold install.
-First let me say that if you not mechanically inclined you should not do this by yourself!
-Next my manifold was used and I believe it came off of a 94+ integra LS the only difference is where the sensors are placed and what fuel rail you can use.
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The first thing that you will want to do is remove the negative battery cable, and get a catch can for the coolant that you will spill. Next go ahead and mark you vacuum lines or just simply look at the under hood decal.
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Now that you have all of you lines marked go ahead and remove you intake tube, vacuum lines, coolant lines, fuel line, throttle cable, clutch cable, and anything else that may be in your way.
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Now you can start to loosen the bolt on the intake manifold. First I broke the loose one at a time. Then when all of them were loose I took all of them off. The bolts on the under side of the intake manifold are kind of tricky. The way I did it is I went ahead and got under the car and used a combo wrench and loosened them up that way. One of the nuts was very difficult to remove (if the coolant line was still there it would be impossible). Also make sure you get the 2 bolts on the bottom back side of the IM. Then you can ask one of you friends to hold one side while you hold the other and slide the manifold back and out of the car.
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Now that you have the manifold sitting on the table you can go ahead and transfer the sensors over. I decided on to install the dashpot. The other 2 sensors will not fit! (The thermal air valve, and the air boost valve I believe). Next install you injectors (always use new injector o-rings! Or you can have fuel leaks that will lead to fire). Then you fuel rail. You can also install the injectors on the fuel rail and the plop the in that way. This is where I had my problem since my manifold was for a 94+ integra my fuel rail was too close to the manifold since you don’t use your spacers anymore. This caused the fuel pressure regulator to hit the manifold. So here is what I did. First I tried using a b16 fuel rail that worked but didn’t clear the IAT sensor now. Next I tried using a civic DX FPR on the LS fuel rail that worked, but was kind of ghetto. What I ended up doing is going to my local speed shop and getting an AEM fuel rail. This worked because I could use my stock FPR. The reason it works is because the AEM fuel rail places the FPR on top of the fuel rail so it has no clearance issues. I got AEM part number 25-100R next I bypassed the solenoid on the fire wall and bought new vacuum line and holed the FPR directly to the port on the IM for manifold vacuum (you can see this in the pics).
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Now for reinstall make sure you get a new IM gasket if you don’t you may have leaks. Use a torque wrench if you can and make sure you look up specs for tightening the IM to the head (18 ft lbs I believe), the only thing I saw that was bad was that the Skunk 2 intake manifold didn’t have anything the will allow you to attach the 2 bolts on the under back side of the IM.
6.now reconnect all of the coolant and vacuum lines, and fuel lines. Find a good way to route the throttle cable, and the clutch cable. Then install the intake tube and adjust you clutch. Add coolant to the system and make sure you burp the system so you don’t have any air in the system. (Note on the coolant lines I had to make a custom line for the coolant. It was a small one but still I had to make one) also don’t forget to adjust you throttle cable.
Double and triple check everything before you start you car! Enjoy