my front cambers are done and tryin to find new ones for the car will the dc ones fit the DA9
let me know trying to order them tonight thanks…
This says 90-93 DA coming out soon…
http://www.skunk2.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=516-05-5660
But if you read this thread from 2008 Skunk2 said the DA kit would be out in early 2009…
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?189031-Skunk-2-camber-kits
But all the information you need is either in or linked to in that thread.
skunk2 already has the arms for the DA. i already have them on my DB1 put the are not car specific. the arms they send you are for an ef civic they work, they are just not specifically made for our cars. if i remember correctly i had the swap sides to get the right caster angle but other then that i love mine.
i think the ingalls are better than skunk plus there vehicle specific
i hate the ingalls/beck arnley adjustable bushing they are are a pain in the ass to get aligned, and no they are not car specific go to advance or autozone the part numbers for a DA,DC,EF,EG are all the same for the kit
if anyone is curious i talked to Skunk2 today, cause i’ll be in the market for camber kits in a week, and they said the DA specific part is about 6 months out and they are 4 months already into the prototype. they told me the EF part works just fine and no issues except the caster angle. and the caster angle wont drastically effect a daily driver, but if you try to enter a professional auto x event where you have to go through tech and are professionally competing, you wont pass because of the caster. otherwise the EF part is just fine
My cousin ordered the 90-93 skunk2 camber kit on ebay and sent him some EF ones we put them on and they seem to fit fine and its been a couple months and still no problems
^^caster is not a tire wear angle. only thing you’d notice is poor steering return and less road feel (less negative caster)
I’ll believe that when I see it. Did you read the thread above where in 2008 they said they would be ready in early 2009? Yeah. How hard can it be to cast a control arm. Seriously.
i know what you’re saying. just hought id repeat what they told me.
so basically what the one guy said…just switch sides and the caster isnt an issue anymore?
Oh, I wan’t trying to harp on you, just Skunk2.
Did you see the stuff about how the DC were better than the EF? I have no personal experience, I’m just saying that is what that one poster in those other threads said.
the caster angle is not perfect but it is a lot better then running them as they are labeled
dang i got owned
[QUOTE=buymysoul;2159475]Oh, I wan’t trying to harp on you, just Skunk2.
Did you see the stuff about how the DC were better than the EF? I have no personal experience, I’m just saying that is what that one poster in those other threads said.[/QUOTE]
so can DC control arms/camber kits work on a DA? cause i can get Megan racing DC arms with camber adjustment and they are a tubular design
alright so i bought the revo cambers from autodynamic.com does any one know how to adjust them my car pulls to the left thanks
You absolutely. positively. need an alignment from a shop.
Which version do you have? 516-05-5660 or the newer 516-05-5650
I’m wondering because i’m waiting on the newer version and wanted to know if i should still swap sides…
Skunk 2 Front adjustable upper contol arms
I just finished installing the Skunk 2 front upper control arms on my 92 GS-R.
They were the part number listed for the 88-91 Civic and they fit great.
The stock spec for castor on this model is +1.5 degrees and after installation we ended up with +3.5 degrees so no problem with that but I would never suggest that you should swap them side to side to deal with “some castor issues” as previously mentioned. Without actually trying it, but comparing the arms side by side I would suggest you would be going from a nice positive castor angle to a much less desirable negative castor angle if you swap them side for side. If someone wants to try and tell me otherwise then I will let them confirm or deny this.
With the GS-R prepped for road racing and lowered so that the fender height is at 23" and the upper ball joint adjusted to the least amount of camber you still get a minimum of -2 degrees of camber and depending on how much you want to burn off the inside edge of your tires you can keep adjusting it to get an crazy amount of negative camber on the front.
Hope this might help anyone wondering about whether these arms will work on our kind of cars.
Skunk2 is probably never going to make a kit for our cars… they have been 6 months out for about 3 years now. There is no part for them to easily copy to make ours. They would actually have to design something specifically for our car for once. They are much more interested in making K-series parts. They put absolutely no research into whether the EF kit would actually fit our cars before selling it as a direct fitment. It took them about a year to quit marketing it as fitting DA and EF after they knew of the issue. They owe me a kit after I called them out on it and they checked and confirmed my claims, but I doubt I’ll ever get it since they probably won’t ever produce one. They were supposedly starting R&D on the kit a year ago when they posted a picture on Facebook of a Skunk2 ball joint sitting on top of a stock DA upper control arm. In other words, IMO, Skunk2 totally sucks as a company and is just in it for the money… and they could care less about making a part for our cars.
The EF kit only corrects about 2 degrees of camber and adds +2 to +3 degrees of caster depending on how low you are (if you switch sides, it goes to about -5 degrees… which is even worse). The reason for this is that the ball joint is set at a funky angle for the EF and does not slide out perpendicular to the anchor bolts as needed on a DA. You actually change caster as much or more than you change camber. No, you can’t correct it with traction bars… I got it down to about +3.5 degrees with my Full Race traction bar setup.
The DC kit supposedly works if you switch sides from left to right. The ball joint does slide out much more perpendicular to the anchor bolts than on the EF kit. I have yet to see anyone post any before and after camber/caster specs on it, so I’m not sure exactly how much it changes. I do know that there are still issues with it bottoming out like any other camber kit, so I was totally uninterested in it.
I have a SPC ball joint kit on mine that corrects a full 3 degrees of camber, and that is currently as good as it gets. Yes, it can bottom out on the fenderwell, but so does every other setup out there. You can paint your control arms red and install a set if you really like the Skunk2 look, but no one will ever see it once it is installed on your car anyway.
So is there something really wrong with this kit for the 88-91 Civics on our tegs ?
I consider my race car quite low with a front fender arch height of 23" and I set it at -3 degrees of camber for the 205/50x15 Toyo R888 race tires we run on it and as I said ended up with +3.5 degrees of castor (not spec but not bad either) castor is not a wear issue but a road feel issue and with power steering how much does it really matter anyway ? If you didn’t want to run that low on the street you could certainly dial back the camber to a closer to stock camber angle for minimal tire wear and not feel that the castor was a detriment. Sure they are red but you’re right nobody can see them but you could paint or powder coat them any color you want.
The only change I would wonder if Skunk 2 would consider was having the 4 allen bolts that hold the upper ball joint to the control arm accessible from the top of the control arm and not from the underside. Sure it’s not hard to loosen and tighten them from the underside and let’s face it most guys are going to do it once and never worry about it again but like on our race car if you want to change you camber for different tires or tracks adjusting from on top of the control arm would be easier.