I searched for a bit then realised most of the threads on these were cluttered up with people Jibber Jabbering about who’s right and who’s wrong
There was mention that the skunk2 rear LCA screw up caster. Is this true?
I am asking this because on other threads people said they loved them and there was no mention of this caster issue. I am going to autocross on sunday (not that they will make much of a difference) but it would be nice to toss them in on saturday anyhow
Thanks for the Help guys!!
Even if it does, your good to go cause caster is not a wearing angle. So throw those bitches on and stunt em at the track
There is no problem with the rear camber kit. It is the front camber kit that has the issue. The rear kit fits 90-01 Integras and 88-00 Civics. The kit that they say is for the front on a DA is actually an EF kit and is no where near fitting right.
ok thanks guys :rockon:
I dont think he is talking about the rear camber kit. He is talking about the rear lower control arms that come in silver or gold and have the three different threaded holes for the sway bar, which to this day, no one has been able to give me a straight answer what each hole does or the effect it will have have on the car. I have had them on my car for a good year and a half, and I actually installed them they same day I put the new rims and tires on. The tires are rt615’s which we all no dont have a long street life, and I have not had to change the tires; they are only down a little past half way in tread, and on top of that I have even rotated the tires since they were put on. Even treadware on all 4 tires with the camber set at -2.5f/-3r. You will be just fine. :rockon:
Stock lower arms are all about the same length from the different years/models, but a DC and a DA have slightly different placement of the sway bar holes. So, having the different holes allows you to use them on different models without ending up cross threading bolts and placing unnecessary tension on the sway bar (I used ITR lower arms for a while and it was a pain to get the DA sway bar on). I would use whatever hole was closest in comparison to your stock arm. If you know a hell of a lot about sway bar physics I guess you could use the different holes to fine tune the tension on it.
I assumed the OP was talking about a camber kit since he was mentioning caster which was discussed with the front kit. Caster is not angle at the rear of the car anyway and both the rear camber kit and lower control arms fit fine.
Just because caster is not a wearing angle does not mean it is not a major issue to someone autocrossing. It is a major control angle, and someone autocrossing is going to be much more concerned about the control of the car than the wear on their tires.
My Function7s have letters written, I assume soft medium and hard. I put the linkage in the M position, but haven’t gotten a chance to try the other two.
As far as ProShift: Your fine running the rear LCAs, it was the front upper control arms that weren’t bueno, as phatcar had already stated.
you want the link kit to be as straight as possible. putting it in an angle will just cause the swaybar to force sideways and will not make the swaybar harder or softer. i have no idea why they wrote s, m, h, on it.
this is function7’s reply on the subject of endlink mounting points on team-integra
Moving the sway bar holes outboard make the sway-bar “more effective” because this applies the force from the sway bar closer to the wheel. It’s like adding a thicker sway bar without a thicker sway bar.
Conversely, moving the mount point farther inboard (farther from the wheel) results in effectively softening the sway bar.[/quote]
Finally the answer I have been looking for for almost 2 years. Guess I am moving mine from the center and going to the fartherest hole.
id be really interested in seeing how they figured that out because i just don’t see it.
There’s no magic to it - the closer you get to the wheel, the further the endlink (and thus swaybar) moves for the same wheel travel.
yup… basic geometry ftw!
redtegra, why do you think that the shock is mounted outboard rather than inboard? and what effect would it have?
Alright, well to bring this back from the dead…
Over the weekend had the teg on the lift changing the oil and filter and figured I would go and change the rear sway to the outside holes of the rear lca on my skunk2’s. Well needless to say they will not bolt up with the stock endlinks, so I am asking if anyone has the adjustable endlinks and have bolted them to the outside holes??? Also wondering how many pivot points or hinge points there are on them? The stock ones only hinge in one place and only allow it to swing up and down. Do the adjustables go left and right also because if so I dont see how it is going to bolt up either, and if that is the case, then what is the point of the extra holes in the RLCA if you cant utilize them???
[QUOTE=japanjay;2050146]Alright, well to bring this back from the dead…
Over the weekend had the teg on the lift changing the oil and filter and figured I would go and change the rear sway to the outside holes of the rear lca on my skunk2’s. Well needless to say they will not bolt up with the stock endlinks, so I am asking if anyone has the adjustable endlinks and have bolted them to the outside holes??? Also wondering how many pivot points or hinge points there are on them? The stock ones only hinge in one place and only allow it to swing up and down. Do the adjustables go left and right also because if so I dont see how it is going to bolt up either, and if that is the case, then what is the point of the extra holes in the RLCA if you cant utilize them???[/QUOTE]
Like I have mentioned before, I believe the holes are to make the control arms more universal, since EG/DC/DA/EF all have slightly different sway bar mounting points on the stock ones. I had to force my DA Suspension Techniques sway bar to fit on my ITR control arms when I was running them (it almost wouldn’t even fit at all).