I didnt install this, but it looked really difficult and time consuming to me. It took professionals twice as long to install this thing than the clutch. Apparently getting the stock manifold off the engine in the car takes a lot of patience and time. The old gasket was fused to the head and had to be scraped off and prepped for a new manifold. A lot of the vacuum lines broke during removal and a lot of wires dont fit in their old brackets anymore.
I ended up getting a g3gsr Fuel rail and FPR because the stock FPR is in the middle of the rail and needs to be on the drivers side of it. I guess my fuel pressure is up a lil but i could use a little extra pressure. i think my injectors were sickly dirty. debating whether i should have RC engineering clean them or should i just buy some brand new h22a injectors.
Off the lot the car felt like it lost a very small amout of low end or maybe its just my imagination. However it makes up big time in the mid to high end and especially in crossover. After about 3-4K it feels like it pulls harder and breathes a lot better. The engine pulls to the redline much quicker and i get that extra umph before vtec. THe lightened flywheel gets me to the b17’s powerband extremely fast so it helps me make good use of this mod.
A really nice mod i recommend this Skunk2 manifold to anyone. It’s pretty cheap too compared to the competition and fits like an oem piece.
yeah i was going to attempt to put on my skunk 2 itr mainfold on my gsr b18c motor but the gsr mainfold is a b$tch to take off , i had one shop quote me 120 to install the mainfold ,if i had a b16 or b17a i would of tried to put it on myself, i found a place to install it for 80 dollars and 60 dollars to put on the itr cams , about the performance the take off was the same but from 4-6,000 rpms i could notice a diffrence espeacially with vtec the cams with the mainfold is a great mix and pulls hard to the redline , my guess is the the intake mainfold will give you a extra 4-8 horspower and the itr cams 7-12 horsepower , to mods i reccomend for b16,b17,b18c owners
ya the manifold is a pain, but i just finished putting it on for the 2nd time today. its not too bad, but it can be done. ive never done motor work before. this head swap is my first attempt.
most annoying things:
pcv valve hose underneath. its made of hard brittle plastic. be careful not to break it on anything or let the manifold sit on it. i guess honda made it plastic so that when you put the manfifold back on, you dont have to struggle with a wobbly hose.
well that was great, however after 12 years it got so brittle and snapped like a twig. even better, its a proprietary piece that you cant buy at pepboys. instead of waiting for an order i made my own connecting piece to the pcv valve.
bottom nut on passenger side of manifold. dont install it from the top. if you drop it good luck finding it. remove/install it from teh bottom. all this has to be done blindly. good thing they only need to be torqued at like 18lb so i just did the hard to reach ones by hand.
thats about it. i was able to remove all the bolts including the support bracket by hand. hopefully the last one who worked on it didnt use an impact wrench/ratchet.
also, before i touched anything i drew diagrams of everything, took pictures, and used white out to label each hose and where it goes.
good luck
curious as to why u didn;t get the ITR manifold? since it bolts str8 up to the B17
Cuz the skunk2 manifold is better. Inside is a freakin nice piece of work, it looks like it’s extrude honed or something. It doesnt look too OEMish nor does it look as radical and flashy as those polished sheet metal manifolds. Plus i was able to get the manifold for $240 ($350 installed with gaskets) and the ITR manifold was about the same. Yeah the ITR manifold is nice but this is even nicer ;). The ITR might not have bolted up either cuz of the fuel rail situation which was last minute.
Has anyone here with a B16A swap installed a Skunk2? I’m thinking about getting one and I was wondering if there were any little hang-ups that I might run into with the install (ex. location of vaccum lines, fuel pressure regulator, pcv valve, etc.). I’m guessing that it was probalby designed for the Civic Si or the Del Slo VTEC and may have some slight differences from my antiquated B16A. If anyone knows please post the info. It would really be a help to have some advance warning about any headaches that might be involved before i go diving into this project
Cuz the skunk2 manifold is better. Inside is a freakin nice piece of work, it looks like it’s extrude honed or something. It doesnt look too OEMish nor does it look as radical and flashy as those polished sheet metal manifolds. Plus i was able to get the manifold for $240 ($350 installed with gaskets) and the ITR manifold was about the same. Yeah the ITR manifold is nice but this is even nicer ;). The ITR might not have bolted up either cuz of the fuel rail situation which was last minute. [/B]
i think that is an “assumption” you are making. As john (AMERIKAN) points out, the skunk2 is a replica of the ITR manifold, and it’s hard to argue that an aftermarket piece is “better” than a genuine OEM Honda manufactured piece. Comparable yes.
for those of you you installed the skunk what did you to with the thermal air thingy thats bolts up to the side of the car with the stock manifold. There is no place to put it now that I installed my skunk 2. let me know what you guys did to make it work
thanks
steve
where any of you guys able to bolt on the egr valve back on??? be cause i ordered the manifold for a 97-01 crv because i have a b20 in my ride and i thought that it would be a better fit but when i was about to put it in, there was no egr port on the manifold for me to put the egr valve back on like the stock one
