Slow starting on my DB...starter already replaced

miata battery!!

something like this:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/42-1007.html?gclid=CPr17a2X1bQCFQ2i4AodhEQA7A

-reasonable priced
-small and compact
-sealed to an extent (still needs to be vented)
-ample amount of CCA so you don’t encounter this same issue with your Odyssey one

i have an idea of what you are getting at and i was thinking about that…just charging this battery up, but i’ve read that it has to be a ‘special dry cell charger’ to charge this battery back up? is this true? i was going to mount it behind the bumper so it could be out of sight and mount the other in the trunk. hopefully FCM will show up again

[QUOTE=AV turn’d DA;2282452]miata battery!!

something like this:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/42-1007.html?gclid=CPr17a2X1bQCFQ2i4AodhEQA7A

-reasonable priced
-small and compact
-sealed to an extent (still needs to be vented)
-ample amount of CCA so you don’t encounter this same issue with your Odyssey one[/QUOTE]

i need a dry cell, looks like a good option for under the hood, but i’ll probably go w/ a optima or somethin in the trunk, thanks though for the good info.

Don’t go with optima. Since they have been manufacturing their batteries in Mexico their quality has really gone down.

Deka
Odyssey
Stinger
Xs power
Kinetik

Those are all agm battery options that’ll work we’ll in the trunk. Deka will most likely be the cheaper option, with the odyssey and stinger being the next cheapest. Stay close to the 500cca point if you are just staying with stock electrical components. If you are using aftermarket amplifiers then go up one size.

Series wiring 2 12v batteries gives you 24v. You’d have to parallel wire (pos-pos, neg-neg) to keep 12v while increasing the cca and ah.

thanks i’ll keep these brands in mind, i guess i’ll do some more research on running a series on the wiring, not being a wiring buff, that makes little to no sense to me.

You don’t wanna wire in series. 24v will fry your ecu.

Parallel wiring a pair of batteries increases all specs while keeping voltage the same (14.4 max)

Parallel! That’s what I was looking to suggest. Been a while since I’ve done fancy electronics stuff. You’d have a better shot at asking this again in the electrical section. FCM is bound to see it there

I happen to do car audio and just left a side job where I was doing police upfit. Wiring is my specialty.

sweet…i have the info here. i’ll ask when i’m gathering materials to do all of this stuff again in the electrical forum, right now it’s pissing in teh wind for me.

I always hear people having issues with optima. Me and my dad have ran them in damn near everything for years without an issue. And my buddies that had issues got them swapped out with no hassle.

[QUOTE=integra_hot;2282532]i have an idea of what you are getting at and i was thinking about that…just charging this battery up, but i’ve read that it has to be a ‘special dry cell charger’ to charge this battery back up? is this true? i was going to mount it behind the bumper so it could be out of sight and mount the other in the trunk. hopefully FCM will show up again

i need a dry cell, looks like a good option for under the hood, but i’ll probably go w/ a optima or somethin in the trunk, thanks though for the good info.[/QUOTE]

you do know that the miata battery is located in the trunk right? Helloooo, just saying it’s better than paying for an optima

Also the miata and BMW and any other oem trunk/hatch mounted battery is specifically made to vent outside the car.

thats an easy fix! If you’re going to relocate the battery to the trunk, you’re going to be drilling into the floor for a battery stay or box anyways, so I don’t think it’s gonna hurt if you drill an extra hole or two for the vent hoses…just saying

I think that’s the point CandeShop was trying to convey…

The rear hatch already has vents behind the quarter plastics anyway. No need for other holes to vent.

Parallel 94

I would never recommend anyone put a lead acid battery in their hatch/trunk. There is a reason why they make agm batteries. The acid leaks and you’ve got one big problem. Better safe than sorry.

i’m no miata buff so i didnt know they had their battery in the trunk, but i want a dry cell battery, either way it goes.

the miata battery is a AGM (at least the oem panasonic and westco brand) and the oem location is in the trunk, please people I know the OP doesn’t want but STOP feeding false info, it really pisses me off to see incorrect info posted so excuse my language STFU if the only thing you are stating is assumptions or hearsay.

i’ll do my google/forum searches to reaffirm what i’ve found, unlike what i did w/ the odyssey battery. i appreciate the info either way it goes, gives me more info to deal w/ to make a better decision

Not all of them are agm. There are lead acid equivalents. Reach back and pull the tampon out it might be a lil bloody this time of month for you.

Dbl post iPad.