Slow starting on my DB...starter already replaced

awww gee thanks for the advice!! Here’s some advice for you, why don’t you get some reading glasses because you obviously can’t read carefully as to what I wrote.

why would I refer to the “store brand” version (a.k.a the ones with lead acid in them) when clearly the OP wants a dry cell battery. Thanks buddy your soooo smart!!

[QUOTE=AV turn’d DA;2282678]awww gee thanks for the advice!! Here’s some advice for you, why don’t you get some reading glasses because you obviously can’t read carefully as to what I wrote.

why would I refer to the “store brand” version (a.k.a the ones with lead acid in them) when clearly the OP wants a dry cell battery. Thanks buddy your soooo smart!![/QUOTE]

I’m not going to sit here and go back and forth with you. You posted a link called it a miata battery (instead of by its group size) not all batteries are made the same for ANY CAR. So like I said continue to get pissy about people on the Internet. They made a meme about people like you. Don’t worry I won’t post it as it might actually be you they characterized.

IF you want to get all technical, fine the group size for the miata battery is 8AMU1R , happy now!? but EVERYONE refers it to the “Miata Battery” because the miata is the only car that uses it- hence the name “Miata Battery” lol. And since it’s going to be mounted in the trunk, I don’t think the group size would come into that big factor unless you want to use a specific mounting plate or box, as opposed to the engine bay where you may be constricted with space. So another words, you have more options to what battery you can you use in the trunk, as long as you have the necessary CCA which the miata battery has.

Here’s westco manufacturing website for your pleasure viewing!

http://www.westcobattery.com/index.php/miata-batteries

Sorry OP for disrupting your thread; I was merely trying to help you find an alternative option that will satisfy what you want at a cheaper cost compared to other competitor battery. And to justify my comments, it was to correct the contradicting information that was given, if you can understand.

Sorry and I will not continue to post in this thread again!

Actually if you really wanna get technical it’s a u1 battery. The r is added to the models in which the pos and neg terminals are reversed. Which is utilized in many tractors and sold as a lawn and garden battery in some stores. As someone who has close ties with a couple local battery shops and people who have been dealing with them for 20+ years, I think I’d know a little bit of information. Not to mention the background in automotive electronics.

Integra_hot whatever you decide (odyssey is a fine choice despite the setback you’ve experienced) make sure you are choosing an agm (absorbed glass mat) or gel cell (optima) battery, even some of the ups batteries (used in servers as backups) are a great inexpensive option. Look around I’m sure there is a battery reconditioning warehouse around you that would provide many options. If not just let me know and I’ll find one local to you.

^

Ah… the love of the G2IC community. Gotta love it.

“G2IC, where we disagree in a professional manner.” :slight_smile:

had to read through the arguments to get good info lol

I had a yellow-top Optima for a few years, but I got sick of deep-cycle battery characteristics, and yes I was left stranded God knows how many times. Bought a nice new fat OEM replacement battery from Autozone (replaced the alternator while I was it)… that was 4+ yrs ago. Haven’t dealt with the drama since.